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I know it's been awhile, but I think I came up with a solution for the parking brake.
I was thinking of adding a line lock so that I can press the brakes, set the line lock, put chocks down, release the line lock, and then go do my business. My thought was then I'm not relying on the line lock for long term holding power.
I had an old wrecker that had a lever at the floorboards right in front of the seat. You could press the brakes and activate the lever and it would hold hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes mechanically. it would hold the truck stationary while you were hooking up a car. Flip the lever and you release the brakes.
On all stripped and cutaway and rv chassis.
I have it in my e450 30’ 2002 advwnturer anniversary edition. I’ve just checked google and as cheap as 350-450usd or 480cad. It’s strong enough to keep my 17.8k lbs rv on the steepest hills imaginable and by far the strongest I’ve seen. Highly adjustable too. Be careful not to forget it on as driveshaft spins faster than wheels and damaging it is quicker as a result. If u can get ur truck to move in D. I did it in 1 on the shifter. Lucky u smell it quicker as it is directly under cab.
Originally Posted by Eman85
By simple I was talking about a driveshaft brake, cable operated by a pedal or lever.
Air brakes would be completely off of the table, totally absurd to want air brakes on a light duty truck.
I looked into the driveshaft brakes, the Ford OE is ford 2wd vehicles and mounts to the transmission, and were exclusive to automatics, so that isn't an option for me. Otherwise, I would need a custom built brake unit to fit behind the transfer case. If money was no issue, that would be the route to go.
Several years ago I was frustrated with the parking brake on my 2000 ZF6 F-250. I use my truck to haul our 5th wheel around and it was a pain in the *** to have a parking brake that was inadequate.
I serviced the parking brakes by replacing the cables, pedal mechanism and the hardware under the disc hat. I adjusted the parking brake shoes and still the result was sub par.
I then took a cutting wheel and a Dremel to the shoes of the parking brake and cut 1" or diamond shapes into the abrasive pad material. Now, when I apply the parking brake, even at an angle it holds tight. If the trailer is attached, it will hold tight up to about 10° of angle and anything further that that I have to press harder on the pedal as the truck settles.
Looking back, I should have replaced the rotors with Motorcraft rotors as they have a texture or knurling on the contact surface on the interior of the hat.
The other options like you mentioned above are good and well suited for the task, but this was cheap and easy and works quite well in my experience.
I looked into the driveshaft brakes, the Ford OE is ford 2wd vehicles and mounts to the transmission, and were exclusive to automatics, so that isn't an option for me. Otherwise, I would need a custom built brake unit to fit behind the transfer case.
Ford mounted driveline parking brakes at the rear axle too, not just the transmission.
Obviously, a rear end mounted drive line parking brake falls into the "money is no issue" category.
I just wanted to establish that a driveline parking brake need not be attached directly behind the transfer case in 4WD vehicles, since Ford, GM, and International have all installed driveline parking brakes at the rear axle.
Sous offers sound advice in suggesting Motorcraft / OEM rotors.
Upon rereading @Y2KW57 explanation of the different types of MICO systems previously, I'm wondering if a normally open valve will work. I'm not entirely sure how ABS works, so that's where some of my concern arises. If I added a valve before the brake line splits to the rear, once the brake is applied, the valve is turned "on", would there be a system warning for the ABS? I understand that the holding power will dissipate as the fluid temperature decreases; thus I'm not planning this as a parking brake, more as an assist hold to set chocks. Am I over thinking things?
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