Well, I have put two of those things on in the last couple of years. The last one came from NAPA a few weeks ago and was making noise out of the box.(the NAPA unit had it's own numbers on it but way at the bottom it had the Cardone number), It only continued to get worse. I looked around to get rid of it but found about a dozen possible belt sizes to do it and sometimes stories of jumping belts and improper alternator performance. I did try one of the suggested belt sizes and it would just not fit for me with the pump pulley gone. So, I got the idea of gutting the pump and leaving it in place to run the original belt. Trouble is, I had never seen the pump taken apart much farther than the back cover coming off. I got playing around and came up with a way to get the ring that the pulley mounts to off the front of the pump with a makeshift puller using flat stock and M6 bolts.

Originally, I tried the box end but I had to apply heat and tap on the piece to get it to move. Broke a few M6 bolts figuring that out.


Once I had that ring off I pulled the back cover off and then was able to press the rotating unit out of the housing.


I took a couple pumps apart. The next step took a while and that was to cut the shaft out of the rotating assembly. It would be an easy lathe job but I used portaband a grinding wheel. I ended up with the short shaft you see here.

Next I press the new short shaft back into the front bearing

Then the ring for the pulley had to be pressed back on and the back cover.

Finally, I reinstalled it in the truck with the original belt. For now, I reconnected the hoses to it, but I plan on clearing all the stuff that goes with it. My old back had just had enough of hanging down in the engine bay for now. It sure runs quiet now.

As a side note, I noticed on the Cardone rebuilt unit (the other pump I tore down), that the front bearing was a number 6203. Very common bearing. I would have just taken one unit apart but the rebuilt Cardone unit had a bad bearing and it had been staked in with a 1/4" chisel on both sides. It had been staked so much that it looked like if I were to try to press the bearing out I might not be able to make the new one stay in there. I don't believe that Cardone's work is performed in the US!

 

Sounds like you went through alot but in the end it paid off....Nice job coming up with a solution and thanks for sharing....

Let me ask ya..?...Is the smog pumps operating capabilities still warranted or is it basically non functional [?]because those pumps are costly and the noise usually comes from the scraper vanes themselves...Just remove the vanes and reinstall...It wont make a peep anymore and is a secret mod when you want performance yet look bone stock too..........

When I deleted my system my pump sounded like a 2 stroke engine...I took the pump apart took out the vanes on my 91 when I first got it and just used the rest as a glorified pulley & it stayed that way from 300k to 565,000..............LOL




Thats what I also did on a truck I flipped that had a noisy pump...........It was basically acting in the same manner as the $65 smogpump delete bracket I have on my 408w pictured below.......

I just had to modify it with the same size pulley as the A/C delete bracket pulley which wss an extra $11 bux.........

 

The belt is incorrectly installed in this picture. It should be routed as shown below.



A bypass pulley isn't even necessary in this arrangement. The air pump can be entirely removed and a shorter belt can be used. 90.5" on this arrangement.
An added benefit of bypassing the air pump altogether, is that you gain more contact surface of the belt over the alternator pulley. For those using a 3G alternator on an older pulley arrangement, this will eliminate squealing starts.

 

Can you route the belt without the wrong sides/turning something backwards without the bypass pulley? Its important to remember a serpentine belt routes in a way that playing with the routing you could have the wrong side of the belt running on a pulley like the cogs facing the smooth water pump pulley.
also a squealing 3g can be helped by using a 94 or so taurus's voltage regulator or whatever the rectangle plastic electronic part is on the back of the alternator. those have a little delayed engagement which means it doesnt load the belt at starting quite like presently does for some.

 

I wish my tensioner was up where that is, does it matter what year it is, my 95 tensioner, isnt there, its here

 

With my truck being a '93, I have this belt routing as well. Sort of why I wanted to keep a pulley there. The blank is costing nearly 100 dollars these days and then you need to by the bigger pulley as well. I definitely had some time into my fix but zero dollars.

 

I tried to bypass the pulley, and the tensioner, is just in the wrong place, 87.5", too little, 88", fit for about a month, then stretched, and squeal like a pig, then it was slinging the belt off, glad to see another alternative, buddy sold me his bypass pulley, so my smog pump is sitting on standby, if sheet hits the fan.

 

Without the bypass pulley, you just go straight from the alternator to the crankshaft. This keeps the belt riding on the correct sides of the pulleys.
Great tip about the voltage regulator.

 

my belt squeal was ultimately fixed by removing all the pilling from the pulleys, namely teh crankshaft pulley Old belts and age and rust and sharp pulley grooves on alt replacement over time filled the grooves with belt but it would look normal and consistent. Had to use a hand wire brush, like for slag clean up or similar, because the normal ones are not strong enough. took a lot of time, I moved the engine over by bump starter with relay pulled. rest were best done without fan and shroud on