Lost 4WD-horrible grinding
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Lost 4WD-horrible grinding
Grateful to get out of here in 2 degrees for a clinic. Everything frozen up, but my manual 1997 F250 7.3 never fails me. Out through the snow and ice, hauling a horse trailer until about a mile on the hard road and suddenly hear a horrific, metallic grinding. Stopped, nothing under the carriage, nothing hanging. Drove a few feet, still grinding. Struggled to get out of 4WD. Noticed indicator light is out, and 4WD is GONE. Luckily 2WD okay, unlocked hubs and was able to limp home and get back through the snow and up the drive. Could have been a disaster, mountain roads covered in ice, but now, WTH? Really sounds like something broke. Small town, no shops open until Monday. Counting my blessings it didn't happen on the highway. Any ideas what I'm looking at here?
Last edited by gruvdiva; Dec 12, 2021 at 08:47 AM.
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Also, found your thread from June '19 about intermittent loss of reverse. There someone suggested t-case and that's what I'm leaning toward here, too, which is why I was asking my questions above.
How many miles on t-case?
You've got the 4406 IIRC and they're decent but subject to wear like any other. Your symptoms described here and in your earlier thread could indicate worn shift fork pads...and at this point the pads have likely been gone for awhile and you've got munched forks.
NOW, that is worst case scenario and a keyboard diagnosis so worth what you paid for it. The bad news is IF this is the case and you're in small town, CO they'll need to order parts from a drive train house. A LOT of shops simply won't open up a t-case and will tell you need a complete reman (typically well over $1k) or a JY unit (which may be the definition of insanity)
But again, I'm arguably scaring you unnecessarily with worst case and not having actually laid hands on the truck. You could just have a broken wheel joint or blown lockout. If you're in the Four Corners area I may be able to help you
How many miles on t-case?
You've got the 4406 IIRC and they're decent but subject to wear like any other. Your symptoms described here and in your earlier thread could indicate worn shift fork pads...and at this point the pads have likely been gone for awhile and you've got munched forks.
NOW, that is worst case scenario and a keyboard diagnosis so worth what you paid for it. The bad news is IF this is the case and you're in small town, CO they'll need to order parts from a drive train house. A LOT of shops simply won't open up a t-case and will tell you need a complete reman (typically well over $1k) or a JY unit (which may be the definition of insanity)
But again, I'm arguably scaring you unnecessarily with worst case and not having actually laid hands on the truck. You could just have a broken wheel joint or blown lockout. If you're in the Four Corners area I may be able to help you
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WWR, I AM in the four corners! between Mancos and Cortez. And yes... scaring me. LOL. I have had no problems with the reverse thing since 2019. There are no push buttons on this truck. Manual all the way, 5 speed manual trans, stick on floor & 3 position manual stick shift for the 2W-4W Hi and Lo with manual hubs. When this happened was driving easy, about 20mph, not shifting, and suddenly grinding sound. After I stopped and checked under carriage, I was of course was in neutral, when I got back in, to the best of my recollection the indicator light was out. I tried to shift into 2WD and it was bound up. After I got it out of 4WD, the stick seemed loose, sloppy and wouldn't engage. However at that point I was apparently in 2WD and able to get home. I'm hoping like h*ll it's just broken linkage and won't cost an arm and a leg.
Not sure what OBS is? 148K original miles. Everything original. The few repairs that have been made over the last five years are unrelated. Starter relay. Door handle linkage.
If you're in 4C, maybe you have a shop recommendation? Haven't had a lot of good luck.
Not sure what OBS is? 148K original miles. Everything original. The few repairs that have been made over the last five years are unrelated. Starter relay. Door handle linkage.
If you're in 4C, maybe you have a shop recommendation? Haven't had a lot of good luck.
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@gruvdiva sending you a PM. Wish I'd seen this sooner. I literally just returned from Cortez back to my shop
Increasingly your issue sounds like t-case. The linkages on the later OBS trucks tend to be pretty solid, but *maybe* that's your issue
edit: the board says you have opted not to receive PM's so not sure how to get you privately
Increasingly your issue sounds like t-case. The linkages on the later OBS trucks tend to be pretty solid, but *maybe* that's your issue
edit: the board says you have opted not to receive PM's so not sure how to get you privately
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Not sure how to change that but added a facebook user name... let me know if you can see that or... look for Mustang Chronicls on FB. The horse, not the car LOL. My name is too common, you'll never find me.
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Also you SHOULD have the 4406 or 4407 but if you have the 1356 I do have a couple of those lying around and we might be able to make one good 'case from many
Car-part.com suggests the 1356 could be a possibility (I'd say chances are low based upon my previous ownership of '96 and '97 MY's) and there's allegedly several 4407s in Farmington from $500 to $850 (ouch). But the Farmington yards are REALLY bad about updating inventory (I'm amazed they know how to use a computer at all) so one would have to call to be sure.
Car-part.com suggests the 1356 could be a possibility (I'd say chances are low based upon my previous ownership of '96 and '97 MY's) and there's allegedly several 4407s in Farmington from $500 to $850 (ouch). But the Farmington yards are REALLY bad about updating inventory (I'm amazed they know how to use a computer at all) so one would have to call to be sure.
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Did the noise go away after you unlocked the hubs and went home? You can try jacking up the front, in 2wd, remove your front drive shaft, lock the hubs and try spinning the front tires. Still grinding? In the pig. No grinding? T case. Right?
I just had to do this on my 99, not sure if the old body style is that much different. Doing this, I found out my pinion bearing was deteriorated and ended up having to regear since it caused too much damage.
The light going out though.. idk.. probably didn’t help shed any light 🤷 Mine did that a while ago but it was a chewed through wire by the t case. Yours doing it after the noise is probably more significant.. 🤔
I just had to do this on my 99, not sure if the old body style is that much different. Doing this, I found out my pinion bearing was deteriorated and ended up having to regear since it caused too much damage.
The light going out though.. idk.. probably didn’t help shed any light 🤷 Mine did that a while ago but it was a chewed through wire by the t case. Yours doing it after the noise is probably more significant.. 🤔
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So a portion of the linkage damaged the t-case from the EXTERIOR? If so - wow - never heard of that!
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