When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I found the passenger side block drain. It is under the motor mount. Such an excellent design. The front two bolts holding the motor mount to the block are hard to get to and require a swivel to get them out. You can't get to them until you take the bracket off that mounts to the frame. The worst part is you can't get your hand in there to start the screws through the new mount. Fortunately I have a set of swivel sockets and the 13mm one got it started. The old motor mount was getting bad but I have seen much worse. It might be hard to tell but the rubber on the new one is probably 1/2" higher. There is a lot of clearance between the oil pan and frame now. Before I could hear a clunk when taking off fast from a stop.
Will you be replacing the hex-drive drain plugs with something like a short hex head bolt? I doubt the driver's side hex can be removed---too much rust IMHO.
I've taken to using aluminum- or nickel-based anti-seize on any underside fastener even if I never anticipate having to service them ever again.
Will you be replacing the hex-drive drain plugs with something like a short hex head bolt? I doubt the driver's side hex can be removed---too much rust IMHO.
I've taken to using aluminum- or nickel-based anti-seize on any underside fastener even if I never anticipate having to service them ever again.
I did not remove the passenger side plug because I was in there for the motor mount replacement and not prepared for the coolant replacement. Aren't those tapered pipe plugs in there? I always use anti-seize on bolts that might rust but I think these plugs would need some type of thread sealant. I'll probably skip draining the block when I replace the coolant and just do more water exchanges until it looks clear.
Interesting idea. I assume that means that you had broken studs at the rear most cylinder. I'll have to double check but I think those two studs are fine on mine and would not think it would help the broken ones closer to the front.
Yes I had broken studs at the rear, that seems to be common with these as they carry part of the weight of the Y pipe and cats, and weak engine mounts will allow more engine movement which also puts more stress on these studs. If you have broken studs elsewhere this idea won't help of course.
Does anyone know what bulbs are in the instrument cluster? There are several listed. 194 and 161 and are the same I believe except that the 194 is 40% higher wattage. Maybe one is for the indicators and the other is for illumination. Dorman also makes a bulb with large socket and another with a small socket. I was thinking these bulbs just push into the sockets so I'm not sure why they sell them that way. If I pulled out the cluster I would have all my answers but it would be nice to have the bulbs on hand first. I don't know if it matters but mine has a tachometer and it looks like they made that type from 2004-2008.
In doing some deeper research I found that the 161 bulbs are for the backlighting and the 194 bulbs are for the indicator bulbs. While looking at several used ones for sale on fleaBay it looks like there are six indicator bulbs (turn, parking brake, check engine light, seat belt, and high beam) and five backlighting bulbs. Surely there are more indicator bulbs like ABS and low fuel. Are some buried under the rear cover? Are they all replaceable incandescent bulbs? I want to replace all of them with long life bulbs so I know they are all new and in theory will last a long time.
Here is a snip I took from a video I took when I turned on the key. There are more indicator lights than I remember. Are they all incandescent replaceable bulbs? What is that crazy looking one all they the way to the left? Also I noticed I don't have a high beam indicator when driving it around tonight.
This is the first drain of coolant. The photo looks like I poured it into the toilet but it is actually looking down into a five gallon square container. I refilled the system with reverse osmosis water I got from our car wash and also put in two bottles of radiator flush. Then drove it around for about a half hour. I'll drain in the morning and see what the second draining looks like. This system supposedly holds over 6 gallons but without draining the block I only got about half of that. I bet I'll have to flush it many times to get it clear.
I pulled the blower motor resistor plug off to take an identification photo of it and after plugging it back in all the fan speeds work. It definitely needs replaced because upon inspecting the photo I can see the terminals don't look good and I can see a tad bit of the plastic melted. Unfortunately I also noticed I have the defrost diversion under load and want to address that.
I got the coolant flushed nice and clear and then put in 3 gallons of concentrated coolant because the manual states a 6+ gallon system. After driving it around a few trips it is about 60%.The math works out to about 4.8 gallons total capacity. I drained about a half gallon and refilled with water. I'll check it again today after driving last night. Has anyone here flushed their 4.6 system and how many gallons of coolant did it take to get it to 50%?
Now I'm noticing a hot start issue. It starts great when cold but has extended crank times when hot. The shorter the time it is turned off after warmed up the longer the crank time. Yesterday I turned it off for about three minutes and I'm guessing it took 6 or 7 seconds to start and it sputtered for a few seconds afterwards. It seems to run great otherwise. I did some research on the issue and is pretty common on these motors. Some people say it can be leaky injectors, a bad cam position sensor, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, and other fuel pump related components. The check engine light is not on but I will hook up my laptop with FORScan to see if there are any codes. I believe there are some injector tests that can be done with it but I'm not sure how to do that. Also I want to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to it. Anything else I should be looking at?
Idle air controller is a possibility not on your list. Does it start more quickly with some foot pressure on the accelerator? This isn’t definitive if it’s an electronic throttle engine. Among other differences there are vented and non-vented IACs. Make sure your engine has the type it needs.
Idle air controller is a possibility not on your list. Does it start more quickly with some foot pressure on the accelerator? This isn’t definitive if it’s an electronic throttle engine. Among other differences there are vented and non-vented IACs. Make sure your engine has the type it needs.
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 178K miles
I also saw that as a possibility when searching. I'll try that trick. It has a throttle cable.
I hooked up the laptop with FORScan and found a bunch of codes.
C1284
U1262
B1318
U1027
B1352
P1000
C1155 (not sure whey that one came back after replacing LF speed sensor and clearing code)
Pulled live data and found the cam position sensor is showing LOW. It also is spiking a little on the oscilloscope page.
The IAC is about 44%
Does the IAC seem normal? It sounds like the cam sensor might need replaced. I assume it only has one because I could only find one on the driver's side bank.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
