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Everything is leaking.

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Old Dec 10, 2021 | 05:13 PM
  #1  
Jpmxrider489's Avatar
Jpmxrider489
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Everything is leaking.

So some back story. I got a 92 f350 7.3 truck with 170k and the previous owner said the the engine was replaced with a motor from a 89 ambulance. Not sure if I believed him or not but here I am. The easier issue, he said he replaced the water pump but seems to be leaking slowly. Can I just yank out the top 2 and bottom 2 to put sealant on those bolts? I'll attached pictures.

Second, is a fuel leak. I see fuel running on the two auto trans line on the passenger side. I replaced a hose I believe for the fuel return but didnt fix it. Everything that I see that's fuel related is dry. I checked the lines for the filter. Not sure where this is coming from and I dont see it squirting when running.

3rd is the power steering reservoir. I replaced the line coming out the side and the gearbox. Now I cant find the source of this. It's all wet and cant see anything obvious.

Lastly is oil from the cooler. Now this is where I'm confused. I stuck a snake camera so I can see if the o rings are leaking and it doesnt appear to be the issue. It looks as if the cooler is resting on the motor mount? Are these mounts bad? There are two wet bolts under the cooler. Are the motor mounts height adjustable?

On a final thought, there are some pictures where I'm missing bolts I believe, can someone confirm?

If I need to make multiple threads let me know.



Bottom if warer pump

Fuel wetness

Water pump

Trans line with fuel on them

Wet bolt under oil cooler


Missing bolt by suspension arm


Oil cooler



Oil cooler and motor mount
 
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Old Dec 10, 2021 | 07:40 PM
  #2  
Wheeler.M1's Avatar
Wheeler.M1
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Welcome to the world of IDI's
Everything drips
 
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Old Dec 10, 2021 | 08:03 PM
  #3  
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Wheeler.M1
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I'd recommend buying a whole lot of brake cleaner. Maybe 30-40 cans of Johnsen, sell for $2 a piece on Rockauto. I've gone through about 30 so far as I'm solving my leaks on my new project. Trust me, you'll probably need more...For fuel, the fuel lines are 30 years old. I recommend running complete new fuel system. This is what I got and it's cheaper than getting everything individually: https://classicdieseldesigns.com/col...conversion-kit
If you need help with your fuel system or want to know more on running a new fuel system let me know.
Oil cooler gaskets probably failed, I'd get it replaced. Water pump, how much does it leak? Sometimes it's just easier adding a quart a month that the labor required.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2021 | 09:48 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Wheeler.M1
I'd recommend buying a whole lot of brake cleaner. Maybe 30-40 cans of Johnsen, sell for $2 a piece on Rockauto. I've gone through about 30 so far as I'm solving my leaks on my new project. Trust me, you'll probably need more...For fuel, the fuel lines are 30 years old. I recommend running complete new fuel system. This is what I got and it's cheaper than getting everything individually: https://classicdieseldesigns.com/col...conversion-kit
If you need help with your fuel system or want to know more on running a new fuel system let me know.
Oil cooler gaskets probably failed, I'd get it replaced. Water pump, how much does it leak? Sometimes it's just easier adding a quart a month that the labor required.
I thought the motor mounts were bad. It looks like the oil cooler is resting on it. It drips a lot of oil but I dont have to add a lot that often surprisingly. The coolant leaks very slowly, almost not enough to complain alot. The fuel leak cant find. I have street parking and kind of at risk if the township complaining about the asphalt I park on.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2021 | 12:20 PM
  #5  
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Wheeler.M1
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I'd rerun the fuel line. I can't tell or know much about motor mounts. On my ZF5 the line runs down the frame rail then around the transmission like so: \_/ then to the fuel pump. Rerun the fuel line, it's possible the connection where it's turns from metal to plastic broke. That means the rubber is garbage. Cut the metal line before the joint, then clamp 5/16 hose to it. I'd just get that kit though, get it over with and be gone with that stock fuel pump and air intrusion.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2021 | 07:39 PM
  #6  
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You have so much Grease, Oil, Dirt and Crud on your Engine, I don`t know how
you can tell what/where it is coming from.
Best bet is to Power Wash the Engine, even better is to use a Hot Water power Washer.
I picked up a Hotsy Hot water washer off CL a few years ago, had to have it looked at, and a
few little tweeks and she runs good.

You could go through a lot of Brake Cleaner, and if you park on the street, you don`t want
that dripping on the Asphalt along with the crud you are cleaning off.
Same with a Power Washer, don`t do that on the street either.

One caution with using Brake Cleaner, if you use it to clean metal you are going to weld on,
the fumes coming off it can Kill You.

Charlie
 
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Old Jun 8, 2022 | 06:21 PM
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I wanted to to update this. I have found me leaks but my main question is about motor mounts, brackets and coolers between van vs truck. I know the headers are different and the brackets or mounts. But could the engine even be installed with the wrong stuff? Reason I ask, is it looks like my cooler is resting on the motor mount. I can't even fit a piece of paper between them. Now I don't know if my mounts are that bad or is it because of mix matched parts? The previous owner said the engine was out of a ambulance. I'm just making I have correct parts before I put my new cooler on.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 03:46 AM
  #8  
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oil cooler should not be touching the mount. yes i am pretty sure van mounts are smaller than pickup mounts
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 02:50 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
oil cooler should not be touching the mount. yes i am pretty sure van mounts are smaller than pickup mounts
That's very interesting!
It's probable then that the replacement engine came out of an E-series ambulance with van engine mounts and those mounts remained on the engine when it was installed in the truck. The solution would be to replace the existing mounts using F350 pickup truck engine mounts.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Fixnstuff
That's very interesting!
It's probable then that the replacement engine came out of an E-series ambulance with van engine mounts and those mounts remained on the engine when it was installed in the truck. The solution would be to replace the existing mounts using F350 pickup truck engine mounts.
I didn't know the engine could even be installed with the wrong mounts. Do i need to source the brackets or just the mount?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 04:00 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Jpmxrider489
I didn't know the engine could even be installed with the wrong mounts. Do i need to source the brackets or just the mount?
I DON'T KNOW a correct answer to either of those questions. Maybe Tom (tjc transport) does. The wrong mounts just seemed logical to me. Either way, it seems obvious that you need new engine mounts.
It would probably help a lot if you can post a photo or two of this engine mount situation.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 04:10 PM
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the only thing i can suggest is a ruler, and van and pickup mounts and towers side by side to see if there is a difference.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 04:58 PM
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I HAVE TO RETRACT EVERYTHING THAT I'VE WRITTEN SO FAR IN THIS TOPIC. Including the recommendation that you need new engine mounts.

I've spent some time looking at photos and diagrams of engine mounts in relationship to the oil coolers in vans and trucks and I don't see where your problem is, nor perceive if there actually is a problem.
A photo of this location pointing out where your concern is I think would be helpful.


 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 05:11 PM
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OK, this should explain this situation. This is from user genscriptor's website. Scroll down to the part about engine mounts for more info (partially quoted below):

https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/tur...truck-engines/

Motor Mounts and Block Mount Brackets

The frame rails are slightly further apart on the van. This was done to situate the engine lower than the truck engine, because unlike the truck chassis, the van engine bay has a fixed ceiling firewall. To accommodate this wider frame rail design, the motor mounts are different and so are the mounting bracket that affix the mounts to the block. Also, the driver’s side motor mount bracket is very different than the truck, because it has to slide in the tiny gap between the oil cooler and block. The truck oil cooler sits further out from the block, and affords the truck motor mount bracket more room to occupy. You can see in the image to the right how the van motor mount bracket sits behind the van oil cooler. Take caution when buying van motor mounts; I have had several incorrectly-shipped mounts because most vendors cannot tell the difference. I will find photos and part numbers of these in the future and post them here.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 05:30 PM
  #15  
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It seems that you have the VAN oil cooler set up and the VAN engine mount bracket behind it. So that's normal for the VAN. It seems that in order to install the TRUCK engine mount bracket to the block you would need to replace the oil cooler headers.

As far as the motor mount itself, with the rubber inside, I don't know which one is right. They look the same to me. If it's not worn out you don't need to change it.
YOU CAN send a message to Nick Pisca via his website and explain that you have the van engine, oil cooler/engine mount bracket in your F350 and which motor mount to use if you need to change just the motor mount?
 
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