Hello,

I am in need of someone who knows more about the EECM’s in these trucks than I do.

I have a ‘91 F150 4x4 that was originally built with a 5.8 and e4od trans. Truck was at some point zf5 swapped. I purchased the truck not running (most of the time).

issue I am having is that the fuel pump constantly runs with the key on. I narrowed it down to the computer not killing the ground for the fuel pump relay like it is supposed to. My suspicion was further intensified after pulling the computer and finding the plug on the computer broken.

my question is what computer do I need in order to make this truck run? Then one that is currently in it appears to be the original computer coded for a 5.8 and e40d. I will attach pictures of my vin, door jam calibration number, and current computer numbers. I do not know if this truck ever ran correctly after the transmission swap, the previous owner had apparently been struggling with it also considering the amount of components that are laying in the cab...

thanks in advance!

 

The Calibration code you listed, 1-64E-R10 crosses to engineering number F2TZ-12A650-CA. I believe that was replaced with F2TZ-12A650-CB which again was replaced with F2TZ-12A650-CC based on some old threads I found. Any of those will work with your ZF swap, all that needs to be done is make sure the neutral safety switch portion of the MLPS is set to the Neutral position. The engine will run just fine, but will trigger errors when running the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests. There will not be a Check Engine Light triggered.

Now would be a good time to swap in a 5.8L/manual transmission PCM. F2TF-12A650-EA will work for this project so you do not have to monkey around the MLPS trick.

 

Or one that is SpeedDensity with a C6 trans.

Basically, any EEC with EFI-SD48B is for 351w with auto trans.
I believe any EEC with EFI-SD44B is for 351w manual trans.

 

I would agree but many times the retailers only state "Automatic Transmission" but not which one. If you guess wrong then you end up doing the MLPS set to neutral trick anyway.

 

I am 100% positive all EFI-SD48B are E4OD.

EFI-SD44B - No transmission control (Manual trans, AOD, ATX, C6, C3, etc.)

Of course some of the retailers show pictures with the original information missing, so yeah, could be a crap shoot.

 

My 1993 with a 460 & E4OD the PCM says EFI-SD48E, not B.
Is there a list somewhere for these codes?

 

The SD48 is definitely E4OD, the B vs E could be 5.8l vs 7.5l or even 4x4 coded?
The SD47A is for a 4.9l with E4OD.
And, to confuse the situation SD47B is for a 5.0l with E4OD
There are also 5.8l E4OD that are simply SD47. No letter at the end.
I assume the hardware revisions are SD2xx->SD4xx through out the years, with SD4xx being the latest.

A->inline 6cyl, B->Windsor v8, E->385 series, maybe, just guessing, do not have an 90s ford engineer with me at this time.

Not an updated list. Most lists are just the 3/4 digit catch/strategy code, not the hardware code/module type.

There was another thread, can't find it, but it was discussing the SD40 and SD44 hardware, which I believe are non-electronic trans(C6) or manual trans computers.

 

In this link theres a topic about ECUs and which ones go to which engine & transmissions for the years..http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/pdf/ford_eectch98.pdf

Theres some computers that matter between having 4.10 gear ratio and 3.55's too as theres two different ones for the different ratios for same engine and aod trans combos .........

In any event you can take any AOD computer if its for your engine also gear ratio and run it on a manual...

It wont matter especially if you pull the pesky VSS sensor wire from the VSS sensor on the rear differential housing which is one of the first mods I do on the fords I get my hands on to flip that has it aswell as my own truck.

Without the VSS sensor hooked up theres no topspeed limiter gonna kick in and it wont throw a CEL either..

It also has other benefits like idle that drops instantly when you release the gaspedal to shift or slow down and something else related to WOT fuel and spark tables I think.Its better explained on page 48 of the link but a huge tip I picked up off from Kenne Bell 16yrs ago......LOL

Putting a manual cpu on an auto is a problem though and requires piggybacking two ECU's together especially when doing an A9L w/80mm MAF upgrade when you dont wanna hunt the edges of the earth for the right CPU

My Ron Francis harness gives me options to use both typs of cpu's to run aod automatics or manuals in my truck just by changing a jumper wire and putting the correct CPU which is also detailed in the installation instructions as to all sensors needed to match the CPU w/part # of CPU from 3 major brands to use for the different combos listed aswell.............

 

That would be the information stored in the calibration, catch code, strategy, etc., which are the parameters you can change when you use a tuner.
Same with altitude fueling, engine size, timing, gear ratios, rear end ratios, etc..
It is the the 3/4 digit, like A2Z1, A9L, HUG0, KID2, C3P0, etc. that specify all those parameters, and the actual functioning code.

FYI, the 4 digits codes A2Zx, HUGx, KIDx, C3Px, where the X is the 4th digit, is the revision version of the code that is running on the hardware. I know this for a fact.
So, A2Z1 is rev.v1, HUG0 is rev.v0, KID2 is rev.v2.

 

Another tip :

This is The ABSOLUTE HOLY GRAIL of procedures when you own a vehicle Equipped with an EECI-EECIV system.....Failure to follow means unexplained issues and failures down the road..

A very much needed thing to do after every 3500 miles when you do an oil change its proper procedure to bleed down and free up ECU memory as once the memory chip gets full the watchdog timer starts to frazzle out causing elevated temps in the circuitry building temps above conditions its comfortable in operating in that causes running problems that also mimics sensor faults and causes running hiccups...

After you do a bleed down when you do a restart for the first time following battery disconnection/reconnection is to turn on all accessories and headlights plus make power windows go up n down if equipped to introduce a huge load on the system to base calibrate the system to sense and lock in the lowest voltage needed to properly run your ECU while under load..

This should be done for 120 seconds or 2 mins and all extra load exerted shutdown before taking for a ride to set the ECU..

If you want some extra performance drive it like you stole it for 10 miles....

If you want extreme economy drive like you have an egg on the gaspedal...

If you want a balance between the two drive moderately........

The EEC uses how you drive as a basepoint those 10 miles then goes from there and gets enhanced when it enters closed loop mode.........

If the ECU sets without differentiating between the lowest and heaviest load your vehicle can draw first, when a heavy load is introduced like at night when its raining also cold with everything running full blast it will cause running issue related problems idle issues and hiccups when voltage dips lower than its calibrated for....

It will also slowly introduce harm to your ECU too weakening it to a point it fails from the times a load lower than its calibrated for is exerted on it..

It can also randomly harm the engine sensors also TFI module and cause them to do funny things then fail too.........

Everytime a battery is disconnected or dies this procedure must be done......



Good Luck.........

 

Holy man, where do you get your information from @Surgemaster1277 ?
Your speaking of clearing the Keep Alive Memory(KAM), and it doesn't get full.

 

Yeah but for those that cant do such things;- like the OP...;- the info I gave is 100% a pertinent thing to know especially the gear ratio differences when buying a junkyard EEC or one from an autoparts store..........Wouldnt ya say?

Some who have trucks w/4:10's sometimes buy a 3.55 rear and frankenstein the truck out of the quest in increasing fuel mileage which doesnt work as expected or vice versa in the name of gaining off the line performance and extra lowend pulling power or gain the ability to run taller tires without becoming a giant slug coming off the line..... .

If all he can obtain is an aod ECU then knowing the gearing would be pretty beneficial to him,,,The spark n fuel tables are totally different between the two too.. FYI...

Whats actually cheaper in this scenario..-Sourcing the cheapest ECU that will plug n play or wasting time and extra money paying a tuner to tweak something you paid for that isn't right?

 

What a cool bus ride to school this has been from y'all!

 

I agree 100% that using a "slightly" different PCM is not optimal but will work in the context of rear axle ratios, high altitude versus closer to sea level. But the whole concept of the PCM's memory gets full and causes issues is complete hogwash IMHO. Pulling the battery feed every xxxx miles to clear the KAM and then let the computer re-adapt is not a common practice and is not required whatsoever.


Flame away but in my experience with Ford vehicles in this vintage since they were new, resetting the computer on a regular basis is just bad advice and not required.

The additional suggestion to pull the VSS input is completely wrong for 1992 above trucks since that is converted by the PSOM so the speedometer, speed control and PCM can use that for critical vehicle feedback (including the E4OD transmission and later 4R70W trucks).

 

Yep... the short bus...