1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Moser

My 1976 F-250

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #706  
Old 02-13-2023, 08:22 PM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts
Originally Posted by paredneck33
Rubiranch, your truck sounds amazing. It really is coming together nicely.
Thank you very much. I'm liking the truck quite a bit.
 
  #707  
Old 02-13-2023, 09:20 PM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts


Back in April 2022 the starter on the old 390 was starting to drag a bit so I bought a rebuilt from a reputable rebuilder.
Problem solved.




Back in Oct and about 2400 miles later the starter drive shattered.
I took the starter back and they rebuilt it again for me.



Feb 1st the starter would only spin nd not engage so I figured another bad drive so I bought a new one.
It sucks taking the hedders off to get the starter out. The old drive looked like new but I installed the new one any way.
The drive was stuck where it wouldn't contact the flywheel. After a little cleaning and a tiny bit of grease it looked like new.

150 miles later when I came out of the post office all it would co is click.
Starter cable and solenoid were getting hot.






So I ordered a brand new starter from rock Auto and it arrived today. BRAND NEW!
Had to take the hedder off again which is a pain in the a$$.
Its tough for this old man to lift the header while wiggling it around at the same time wrestling the starter.

Well the new starter is in and it sounds great. I just hope it lasts a really long time.






The previous owner even cut this cute little access door to the starter bolts.
Looks like a piece of an old exhaust hanger for the latch to keep it closed.




Looks like valve stem seals are next in line.
I can't believe they went bad after sitting for 50 years.

Rich, I fixed the clamps too.
 
The following users liked this post:
  #708  
Old 02-13-2023, 09:42 PM
77&79F250's Avatar
77&79F250
77&79F250 is offline
Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: S/W Missouri
Posts: 45,324
Received 3,424 Likes on 2,542 Posts
Oh man you went full inverted on them clamps. Look clean and sound mean.
 
The following users liked this post:
  #709  
Old 02-13-2023, 09:53 PM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts
Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Oh man you went full inverted on them clamps. Look clean and sound mean.
Thank you Sir.

I'm really starting to like the old truck.
 
  #710  
Old 02-15-2023, 07:43 PM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts


I think I found my PS fluid leak.





I got my auxiliary tank switching valve replaced and the tank filled with gas about 5 months ago.
The other day I thought I had better start using some of that 5 month old gas and after about 15
miles the engine started starving for gas so I switched back to the main tank.
Over the last 3000 miles I've used about 10 gallons from the aux tank and filed it back up.
It looks like the old tank that sat dry for 20 years finally has some rust and crud freeing up.
I wonder how many fuel filters and miles it will take to get all the crud out of there.
 
The following users liked this post:
  #711  
Old 02-16-2023, 07:14 AM
somethingclever's Avatar
somethingclever
somethingclever is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SW PA
Posts: 2,988
Received 208 Likes on 147 Posts
hard to see the crud in that picture in the element....are you sure the aux tank is vented properly?
 
The following users liked this post:
  #712  
Old 02-16-2023, 10:30 AM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts
Originally Posted by somethingclever
hard to see the crud in that picture in the element....are you sure the aux tank is vented properly?
Its run a lot longer than just recently. I've gone 50 plus miles without a problem a few time.
The other day maybe 10 miles before it started starving for fuel.




A little better picture. The paper element is a lot darker than is used to be.
I'll take the gas cap off and drive it and see how it runs.
 
  #713  
Old 02-16-2023, 10:33 AM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts


Here's what the old truck looks like at -8°.



I am very pleased with how well the old truck runs.
 
The following users liked this post:
  #714  
Old 02-18-2023, 08:50 PM
BarnieTrk's Avatar
BarnieTrk
BarnieTrk is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Stanton, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,029
Received 61 Likes on 53 Posts
Rubiranch,
I believe your starters are being cooked to death from the heat off the headers. I've killed 3 or 4 of them (on my 390 with headers) that way. And yeah, having to remove the header every time is a true PIA!!

I suggest you build a heat shield for your starter.
I built one out of a piece of galvanized tin. I bent it so it wraps around about 1/2 of the starter with about a 1/2 inch air gap between the tin guard and the starter. I haven't killed a starter since. I also make sure I turn the engine off if I plan to be not be moving the truck for more than 5 minutes..........It worked for me.

BarnieTrk

 
The following users liked this post:
  #715  
Old 02-19-2023, 05:26 AM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts
Originally Posted by BarnieTrk
Rubiranch,
I believe your starters are being cooked to death from the heat off the headers. I've killed 3 or 4 of them (on my 390 with headers) that way. And yeah, having to remove the header every time is a true PIA!!

I suggest you build a heat shield for your starter.
I built one out of a piece of galvanized tin. I bent it so it wraps around about 1/2 of the starter with about a 1/2 inch air gap between the tin guard and the starter. I haven't killed a starter since. I also make sure I turn the engine off if I plan to be not be moving the truck for more than 5 minutes..........It worked for me.

BarnieTrk

Thank you, the hedders have only been on for a very short time.
I have some heat wrap on its way.
 
  #716  
Old 02-19-2023, 06:14 AM
FuzzFace2's Avatar
FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Angier, NC
Posts: 24,197
Received 2,276 Likes on 1,939 Posts
PMGR mini starter and you will never have to drop the header again to change a starter as you wont need to change it.
I have used https://www.robbmcperformance.com/index.html on my drag car and it is made in the USA
Yes a little bit of $$$ but again you will never need to change the starter again.

To wire that starter you just need to move the large starter cable from the factory fender mounted solenoid to the battery side cable and run a 10ga wire from the old cable stud to the trigger on the new starter.
Dave ----
 
  #717  
Old 02-21-2023, 08:26 AM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts
Last week the old truck fired right up at -8°. The next morning I needed to move the truck before heading out to work, -5°.
The truck fired right up and the starter drive stayed engaged... GRRR. I let the engine die and when I went to restart it all I gat was a click.
I'm thinking the brand new starter bit the dust already.

When I got home from work yesterday and dug in to it I found a bad starter solenoid.
So I bought a cheap one at O'Reily. Back on the road, again.

Funny thing is I will have a new Motorcraft solenoid here tomorrow.
I had already ordered a ne solenoid and starter cable. Oh well, just a day or two late.
I will replace the cheap one with the Motorcraft.




I also got some heat wrap for the starter an some insulation for the solenoid to starter cable.




Its a lot warmer this morning, a really nice 21°. Oh how I hate scraping the windows.
 
  #718  
Old 02-21-2023, 08:28 AM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
PMGR mini starter and you will never have to drop the header again to change a starter as you wont need to change it.
I have used https://www.robbmcperformance.com/index.html on my drag car and it is made in the USA
Yes a little bit of $$$ but again you will never need to change the starter again.

To wire that starter you just need to move the large starter cable from the factory fender mounted solenoid to the battery side cable and run a 10ga wire from the old cable stud to the trigger on the new starter.
Dave ----

Thank you. If my new starter dies this is something that I will definitely consider.
 
  #719  
Old 02-21-2023, 09:41 AM
somethingclever's Avatar
somethingclever
somethingclever is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SW PA
Posts: 2,988
Received 208 Likes on 147 Posts
When does your new flywheel show up?

 
The following users liked this post:
  #720  
Old 02-21-2023, 01:39 PM
Rubiranch's Avatar
Rubiranch
Rubiranch is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,474
Received 1,489 Likes on 877 Posts
Originally Posted by somethingclever
When does your new flywheel show up?
I never ordered it.
I have decided to see how long the brand new starter lasts.
I'm starting to think I just got a junk rebuilt the first time.

The teeth on the starter drive and flywheel show no signs of misalignment or any abnormal wear at all.
 


Quick Reply: My 1976 F-250



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:10 AM.