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They are plugging that smaller hole in the picture below.
Here is what I found under the carb/EGR plate. I’m not sure what I’m looking at here or if burn through is present. You can see there is a lot of soot. Pictures are before I cleaned everything up good.
Another important note. I removed the EGR on the back of the plate bc I thought that MAYBE there was a block off plate there instead of a gasket. I was wrong… just a gasket. Meaning the EGR port on the back was not plugged or hooked to any hose. Now I know for a fact that the port was not sucking any air, but nonetheless the EGR was there and not blocked off in any way. Do we think that any of this is the source of my issues?
They are plugging that smaller hole in the picture below.
Wouldn’t it be easier to fit a flat block-off plate between the EGR valve and spacer? Trace the gasket onto a piece of sheet metal and you’ve got your pattern. That’s what I did on my truck.
Here is what I found under the carb/EGR plate. I’m not sure what I’m looking at here or if burn through is present. You can see there is a lot of soot. Pictures are before I cleaned everything up good.
Another important note. I removed the EGR on the back of the plate bc I thought that MAYBE there was a block off plate there instead of a gasket. I was wrong… just a gasket. Meaning the EGR port on the back was not plugged or hooked to any hose. Now I know for a fact that the port was not sucking any air, but nonetheless the EGR was there and not blocked off in any way. Do we think that any of this is the source of my issues?
Coach, looks like your gasket and spacer weren't near as burnt as the one Franklin posted. Doesn't appear to be breached to me. How's the EGR valve look? What do you think? Was it leaking by at the gasket? At the valve?
Coach, looks like your gasket and spacer weren't near as burnt as the one Franklin posted. Doesn't appear to be breached to me. How's the EGR valve look? What do you think? Was it leaking by at the gasket? At the valve?
Honestly I don’t know. When I removed the actual EGR from the spacer plate the small gasket between them seemed pretty well sealed. But that doesn’t really change the fact that the EGR is there and not connected to anything. I have no idea if it works or not and what affect that could be having on the situation.
Honestly I don’t know. When I removed the actual EGR from the spacer plate the small gasket between them seemed pretty well sealed. But that doesn’t really change the fact that the EGR is there and not connected to anything. I have no idea if it works or not and what affect that could be having on the situation.
According to my Chilton's manual a leaky EGR valve can cause a rough idle. Also cleaning the inlet and outlet ports with a wire brush may be needed. A valve testing procedure is listed in the manual. I'm referring to manual number (8576)26662
I suppose that plugging the EGR port will make a leaky valve or plugged exhaust gas channels a moot point?
Yeah. Since I have the carb off and have access to the hole I’m probably going to try to tap and plug it first. If that doesn’t go as planned I’ll block it off with a plate.
One thing that got my attention was the carb gasket. Not the one pictured but the one between the carb and the EGR plate. It’s really thin and I think there was fuel seeping through. You can sort of see it in the front right of the one picture where the stud came out. That stud was soaked with fuel… Also the actual EGR reeks of fuel.
Yeah. Since I have the carb off and have access to the hole I’m probably going to try to tap and plug it first. If that doesn’t go as planned I’ll block it off with a plate.
One thing that got my attention was the carb gasket. Not the one pictured but the one between the carb and the EGR plate. It’s really thin and I think there was fuel seeping through. You can sort of see it in the front right of the one picture where the stud came out. That stud was soaked with fuel… Also the actual EGR reeks of fuel.
Can we say the 5 psi is to high for that carb?
Dave ----
Can we say the 5 psi is to high for that carb?
Dave ----
ok, but when I tried turning it down some it seemed to want to die. I can certainly try that again when I get everything buttoned up with the egr blocked off with new gaskets etc.
im assuming fuel seeping down that front stud isn’t Normal at all… how would that even happen? Unless the screw wasn’t tight for the carb? Bad gasket?
No idea what is happening with the external fuel leakage. Maybe a cracked casting? I'm not familiar with this carb, but are there any gaskets below the fuel level?
Something to consider: You seem to have found a problem (maybe more than one), but be aware there may still be other faults in play. Don't be discouraged if you put everything back together and the problem continues, even if not as severe. Could be you found A problem, but not necessarily THE problem.
While you have good access with the carb removed, this would be a good time to take careful note of all the vacuum lines. If you have to continue troubleshooting, it's good to have a mental picture of the lines and where they connect to either the manifold or carb. I think you'll find a Christmas tree type of fitting on the aft side of the intake manifold, with multiple lines running off to the brake booster, HVAC controls, etc. Any unused ports should be capped. It's kind of hard to see with the carb and air cleaner installed.
The EGR not being blocked off in any way could certainly be suspect. They are famous for getting a piece of that carbon between the valve pintle and the seat and be leaky. Since you are not using it anyway, I would block it off. Many ways to do that. Block the little hole in the manifold. Or make a solid gasket for under the EGR valve itself. Or some other way like a solid spacer or metal gasket that was mentioned between the manifold and EGR plate. If you do block it off further down in the intake system, then you can get rid of the valve altogether and not have it hanging out in the way back there.
Planning to attack this next week as I’m waiting for some stuff to come in the mail. I’ll update you then.
The plan is block off the hole for the EGR under the plate since I have access to it now by tapping it and using a NPT plug with loctite. I also found a block off plate on eBay I think will work in case that’s not successful. But I’d rather plug it off good and eliminate in chance of burn through in the future.
I got new gaskets to install as well. For under the EGR plate and for the carb. I also bought a 1” edelbrock phenolic spacer to address hot starts since I’m in there anyways. I’m assuming I should use 2 carb gaskets with that right? One below the phenolic spacer and one between it and the carb?
When I had this issue before I did inspect that tree down behind the EGR and replaced the hose to the brake booster. The hoses seem good but one is soft so I might replace it for good measure.
I would hope there isn’t a crack in a 2 year old carb…. Really hoping all this solves the issue. I can’t imagine there could be a vacuum leak anywhere else. Like I said, I’ve inspected all the vacuum lines countless times and replaced almost all of them.
Sooooooooo.... I just realized something that could have been an issue. When I installed the edelbrock 1406 a couple years ago, I'm rather certain that I used the gasket that came with it, which is square bore. I'll have to double check when i get home bc it's still stuck to the bottom of the carb. I realized this when I looked up the 1406 and saw the picture showing that the square bore is what comes with it and the one i got from napa yesterday to replace it with is 4 bore. Would that be an issue if I had a square bore carb gasket installed?
I guess what i'm asking is if should I be using a square bore or 4 bore gasket going forward? The one I got from napa is a felpro 4 bore but I'm not sure if that's right for an edelbrock 1406.
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