When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I changed a couple parts including the IPR, ICP, Wastegate solenoid, Wastegate vacuum lines and Map sensor.
I replaced the new Map sensor today (Motorcraft) Once I done this i noticed I have a map reading of 12 psi and no boost.
When I Unplug the Map sensor , I have a reading of 15 psi and boost comes back..
I'm so lost as to why I get 0 boost with the Map sensor plugged in. I saw a video on cleaning out the EPV sensor and line behind the cam. Do you think if that's clogged it'll cause this with the Map sensor to not give any boost?
I'm new to diesel and learning as I go. I was hoping you guys can point me in the right direction based off past experiences.
As of now I'm driving around with the map sensor unplugged so I can get my boost.. only have 12 psi max when I do BTW. But no leaks that I've found so far. Wastegate is functioning properly.
I just really want to know what's up with this Map sensor first and why I can't get boost with it plugged in. Also l, changed it just so I know it's good cause it's new. But maybe I didn't have a problem before because the old one was actually bad so was just as good as being unplugged.
OK, I don't know nuthin' about them but here's a bump for you. Something makes me think that they do make the calculation to boost, I think I heard it mentioned here. First think I'd do is check your lines for kinks and plugs but you probably did that already. That's all I've got.
I couldn’t tell ya on the map sensor but given what you’re seeing it would be worthwhile to build a boost leak detector. Here’s mine it uses a 3” pipe cap installed on the turbo side of the crank case vent. You don’t need the regulator like I have if you can turn your compressor (assuming you have access to one) down to 20psi.
Spray soapy water on all the boots, connections and especially the intake plenums. Mine had a nasty leak on the driver side plenum and would only boost to 10psi if I hammered on it egts we’re through the roof.
On a cold engine (key on, engine off), MAP, BARO and EBP should all be within .5 PSI of each other. If one is off, then that sensor or circuit is faulty or has a fault in it.
Once you verify that your BARO and MAP are reading the appropriate values for your elevation, we can suggest another course of action.
Is the line to your MAP sensor clear of oil and does it have a gradual slope to the spider as seen below?
Here is an image of my MAP line post T4 install with the Riffraff OCR:
Here is an image of my MAP line with the OEM spider and OEM MAP sensor connection, which I assume is what you have:
Thank you guys for that. I have to pick up a boost leak tester as pictured above.
Now that you mentioned the slope of the Map line, I did Install a new hose which I purchased from Autozone. (Old owner had a unplugged tee in the line) It doesn't have the perfect slope you showed. It's not kinked but Def a bit longer and has a longer run with a curve. I didn't think that would be impacted as long as it was a clear solid connection. Do you think that's my issue?
Thank you guys for that. I have to pick up a boost leak tester as pictured above.
Now that you mentioned the slope of the Map line, I did Install a new hose which I purchased from Autozone. (Old owner had a unplugged tee in the line) It doesn't have the perfect slope you showed. It's not kinked but Def a bit longer and has a longer run with a curve. I didn't think that would be impacted as long as it was a clear solid connection. Do you think that's my issue?
Probably not as we have only seen it a few times and normally it produces an intermittent adverse condition.
Check the sensors (EBP, MAP and Baro) with the ignition on, engine off to see if they are within .5 of each other. That will tell us if the three are functioning properly and we can start looking other places, like leaks. Really, all you need is the the EBP and MAP reading as you can identify what your barometric pressure reading is by what your elevation is at the time of testing.
For example, if your barometric pressure is 14.5 PSI and EBP is 14.2 and MAP is 10.1, then the MAP is suspect.
Just to clarify. How are you reading boost on the CTS3?
There are 2 methods which will have drastic differences in troubleshooting directions.
1- reading from the selection in CTS for PCM channels. “Boost” is calculated by the CTS based on the MAP sensor readings. Basically it takes the MAP reading, subtracts atmosphere (~14.x), then relays this as boost on your screen. Tuners can impact this value.
2- add on Edge pressure sensor plumbed somewhere in the CAC piping (typical spot is spyder or MAP line) which feeds the CTS with a “real” boost psi.
Are you sure the T in the original MAP line wasn’t plumbed to a boost sensor?
Just to clarify. How are you reading boost on the CTS3?
There are 2 methods which will have drastic differences in troubleshooting directions.
1- reading from the selection in CTS for PCM channels. “Boost” is calculated by the CTS based on the MAP sensor readings. Basically it takes the MAP reading, subtracts atmosphere (~14.x), then relays this as boost on your screen. Tuners can impact this value.
2- add on Edge pressure sensor plumbed somewhere in the CAC piping (typical spot is spyder or MAP line) which feeds the CTS with a “real” boost psi.
Are you sure the T in the original MAP line wasn’t plumbed to a boost sensor?
Photos will also help us help you.
It was definitely ran to a boost Guage but when I bought the truck it looked like this
Let me caution you here. I think at some point Edge changed the logic to where the CTS displays exhaust back pressure as a calculated value minus atmosphere. I would do some more checking before calling the EBPS bad.
Originally Posted by Brooklynh87
It was definitely ran to a boost Guage but when I bought the truck it looked like this
Well now, that’s not good! Looks like a giant boost leak. Glad you got it fixed up.
So it sounds like you do not have an additional sensor for boost and are actually reading from the PCM which is based on calculations from the MAP sensor values.
Yeah, sucks. I'm in a bind now because I don't get why having the map sensor plugged in cancels my boost.. I don't want to continue driving around with it unplugged. Rather fix it lol something else has to be faulted elsewhere to make it do that.
Seeing you have an 03 make sure you have the correct MAP sensor, the 6.0 powerstroke has a different part # than the 7.3 not sure if it affects anything but something to keep in mind.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
