Why do nozzles?

Do you think that after 200k miles and up,spray pattern will be as new?Or similar between each other?

Crappy injector rebuilders" inspects and cleans" nozzles.

​​​​​​DIYers better do it good or don't do it all.

For proper DIY injector build, without flow test:

Armature wear must be measured BEFORE rebuild.
If there's too much wear, injector body is no good for reliable rebuild.

Nozzles+springs
Plungers & Barrells
Check *****
Poppet valve springs+screws
O-rings and Copper washers
Shims if needed

I also replaced check valve assemblys,they had erosion wear.
My parts total was 800€,from Redat Italy.

Me being in Europe,differs quite a bit from you guys.
If i purchase 1600$ set of injectors from US,makes total more than 2000$,after shipping,VAT and taxes.

Total for my DIYs was 1/2 price,at max.
I know what they are,works for me and was lot of "fun" to do!

 

A professionally built set would be worth every Euro

 

Agreed.
But sometimes we got to do,what we got to do.

 

Your contributions are valuable to our community.

 

I thought you did it for fun.

 

Thank you!(not really asking for any credit ,but it does warm a lot)
I do have checked shipping cost for set of injectors..
(If you remember why..)

Ain't being poor always just fun..??

(My first multiquoting is succesful!)

 

You looked kind of wealthy to me, with all those toys I've seen in your pictures.

 

Can you be more specific about the "toys"?

Sorry to the OP,about off topic here..

 

He gots all kinds of heavy equipment.

 

Like new spray pattern and balanced flow at 200k? No, but rigs on stock injectors at 4-500k and running good tells me that the parts probably aren't near the end of their service life at 200k. I doubt they were even very balanced when new, and cleaning is going to help with the spray pattern.

So you're saying that Redwood Diesel is a crappy injector rebuilder? For their lowest service, that is what they do, only replacing them if necessary. Even Bitterroot sells "rebuild kits" that do not include nozzles for people to squeeze a little more life out of their existing injectors. I'm not saying that it's as good as their rebuilt units, just saying.

I think one of the problems here is simply the English language. One word can have multiple meanings, multiple words can have the same meaning, and often times the wrong words are used.

In the automotive community words like overhaul, rebuild, and remanufacture often get thrown out for the same thing. They aren't the same. To parapharse the avaition industry:

Overhaul: Clean, Inspect, and repair as necessary to meet manufacturer service limits
Rebuild: Clean, inspect, and repair as necessary to meet like new specification

In remanufacturing everything that can be is replaced except for the main component, in this case that would probably be the injector body and maybe the solenoid.

So I'm going to propose for the sake of discussion, that there is a fourth stage in the automotive world. Reseal and it should be pretty self explanatory, but basically replacing all o-rings and gaskets. So you've got reseal, overhaul, rebuild, and remanufacture. Each one has a purpose and different reason to do it, and you aren't limited to just doing one of those. If you just have a leaking o-ring a reseal will do the job, no reason to remanufacture them. If they need to be rebuilt or remanufactured, resealing isn't going to do jack.

What hstechfl did was somewhere between a reseal and a overhaul, maybe call it a reseal+. What you did was closer to a rebuild than an overhaul. What bitterroot and rosewood do are closer to reman than a rebuild, but includes additional services that go beyond either with the flow testing and balancing.

What you did was the right choice for you, per your signature it also looks like you rebuilt them into 205/80s which kind of requires replacing the nozzles. For others, if there is no obvious sign of damage on the nozzle replacing them might not be the right choice. For someone just trying to get another 50-100K miles out of their existing injectors (for me that would probably be ~10 years minimum) or trying to hold out until they are in better financial situation, what hstechfl did can be a very viable option.

 

Hi all- just to update. I took off the valve covers again this morning. I took off the solenoids and checked the shims and armature plate orientation- they were correct. It did seem that some of the solenoid screws were not very tight. There was no torque spec in the kit so it just said "tight and then some." Not sure if this matters. I also found the a piece of the pigtail plastic connector to the injector on #3 had chipped off- leaving part of the plug exposed. I guess this possibly could have an effect.. Would one injector with a bad connection be enough to make it run this bad?

 

Yes, and also air in the system would too. You really have to drive the truck hard for it to purge the air out of the system. Also make sure youbdidnt over tighten the armature plate bolt, you can easily strip the threads allowing the armature to be loose. Before throwing on the valve covers let your truck idle and see the oil output from the injectors drain spouts and see if they all have a uuniformly flow.

 

If that pc of the injector connector causes the plug to not fit tight or make contact, this could cause that injector not to fire. One bad injector or one dead one can cause you to lose More than 1/8 of the total hp. The uvch has a bit of responsibility. Provide a good connection to ea injector and keep wires out of moving parts.

You could ohm the injectors from the 9pin connector on the uvch. Might be real obvious if that uvch is compromised. Or run a cct/perdels.
Or just replace that uvch.