Oh, hell musta missed that number 9 it is such a small one.
Well, maybe I expect too much of people who work in an autoparts.

 

Just to throw my two cents in...I have been working on autos for many years only in dealerships and I have plenty of experience with Autozone, Advance, O'Reily's. Yes they are all the same. Most buy all their parts from the same Chinese people and remanufacture the same old broken stuff again. They are not too bad compared to parts houses (Carquest, Napa) IF, and only if, you are getting mechanical parts. They are not too bad for emergencies and "get ya by's".

Electrical is a totally different story. Factory parts are made to spec. Starters, Alt's, relays, modules, etc. anything with a wire going to it, are made CLOSE to factory spec. The brushes are made softer, the windings use less insulation, the rotors are not thermal checked when re-man'd, and the coils and contacts are made to come close enough to fit multiple vehicles instead of the exact one you are working on. ALL of this is to save money and beat the dealer price by multiples. I know these things for a fact by experience, personal and professional, and by knowing people and companies that manufacture parts for these places. Hope this gives a little insight into the "quickie" auto parts stores for people without the knowledge on this matter. Not trashing the stores.....But the dealer and the auto parts stores both have there places and uses.

Oh and last but not least. Most of the parts at discount auto parts stores are made are made to fit, not to last

 

LOL... Well I agree with you guys. You go to autozone to buy parts... NEVER,,,EVER... Go to autozone for info or help... You will be disappointed But cheap parts they got them. Napa is a good place for advicce and moderatly priced and hard to find parts.

 

Here in reno we have pep boys, kragen, napa and autozone. Out of the four I like autozone, the only way I go to the others is if I break down in front of it (actually happened once). All the poeple at this store seem to know what there doing,when given the right name of the part, plus the fact that we only have one auto zone and a million of the others might have some thing to do with it. Oh and mulpha when my tfi mod. went out it wouldn't run at all. Then when the fuel pump first went out (done lots of repairs 250,000 miles all org.) if I let it sit a minute it would work again but it didn't matter if I was doing 70 or stopped it would die. Back when my dad owned my bronco he had to replace the idle position sensor because it was idleing realy rough. So I would say idle sensor or fuel regulator. And for the autozone workers in reno I got your back

 

I just wanted to say I like your style!

 

Gaknar,

Thanks for your tips, especially 2,3,5, and 9.

I had to return a battery to Pepboys last night. It was within the "full replacement" period. I had already determined it was bad because one cell is dead by a hydrometer test, something only an "old timer" like me still uses. Unfortunately, another person broght a battery in just ahead of me and they only have one test machine. The "newfangled" battery analyzer takes up to an hour! It was near closing and the clerk told me that the only way he can replace a bad battery is with the printout from the machine. I had my hydrometer with me and my first mistake was trying to explain my test results to someone who is "just following orders". I politely asked him to call a manager. He did. After talking to the manager for less than one minute, the manager approved the warranty replacement and I was out of there in a just a few minutes, instead of having to come back the next day.

On the way out, I personally thanked the clerk and the manager for helping me.

Jim

 

Mulpha, I had the same problem with my 1996 Bronco 351 5.8L where it was stalling at traffic lights or anytime I stopped. This appeared to be worse when it was colder outside. The Idle Air Control Valve was the culprit. I bought one at Discount Auto Parts for about $45.00 and replaced it myself (it is attached with 2 bolts and is located on the drivers side of the throttle body toward the front of the engine). Very easy to access and only took a few minutes. My Bronco runs as great as ever now. Hope this helps.

 

Having similiar problem with 93-302 engine.After vehicle warmed up and ran for while then shut off and sat for 15 min. to 2hours truck would stall or miss badley. did all basic repairs to no avail.no check engine light. took to dealer and no codes and no solution . problem got worse and took back to dealer today.mechanic and I hooked up his fuel pressure gauge and found pump was not always pumping at full pressure after sitting and warmed up. started fine if it sat all night which we think allowed the pump to cool down. Also we restarted engine and found the pressure dropped from 44 to 20 then back up quickly. Mechanic said this should not happen.I thought I had a sensor going bad but I think the pump will fix it.Waiting to get it back tommorrow. Also noticed pump would get louder the colder the outside air temp. Expensive repair but what can you do..

 

Went to autozone and told the kid I needed a belt. Just crossover a Gates 8XXX. (I can still remember a lot of part numbers from when I sold parts in the late '70's.) He had to know make, model engine...

Ok '55 Ford F100 302 power steering and a/c.

Gee my computer doesn't show a 302 or p/s or a/c.

I know, it is not original engine.

What did the engine come out of?

It doesn't matter because it is an aftermarket a/c bracket.

What did the a/c come out of?

It is a sanden 508 compressor on a bracket that I got from XXXX

My computer does not list that.

All I need is a bloody belt that crosses over from a Gates 8xxx.

I need to know what it fits.

Can I go get it off the rack myself, I can read your numbers and figure it out myself.

Customers are not allowed in the shelf area.

Bye! Went to independant shop and asked for and recieved Gates 8xxx belt.

 

Typical Sunday few months ago, i had nothing better to do than strip out the gear in my rear window, so to A/Z i go.

Need a "rear window gear replacement kit" for a '96 ford bronco

After the gaze in the face, it went:

What yr - 96

What make - ford

What model - bronco

Is it the 5.8 or 5.0 - 5.8

Is it 4x4 or 4x2 - 4x4

A/c or non-a/c - a/c

Rear window gear kit huh? - yea

Is it manual or electric motor motor - electric

Don't have it - your website says you do and one in stock

Repeat above except I think i found it

Cash reg -
26.99+tax

But, i can buy it from broncograveyard.com for 15.00 (had print out in hand)

Well you can buy it here for 15.00 too

Not many times do i go to a/z, sometimes it is out of gotta get it going - 'cause i'll go to the dealer 1st. The gear is still working, and it was like the original - plastic.