Ok I have a jumper cable kit that gets attached to the battery and the plug goes through the bumper. Went to go put it on this morning and hit a road block and have questions. I have the 7.3 with the dual battery setup. Those who have this setup or have done how did you run and install the jumper cables?

 

What is the roadblock you ran into, and what are your questions?

 

roadblocks:
there isn’t any passage into the front of the bumper from the backside

The battery on the drivers side doesn’t have a stud on the battery terminal to attach it too

Questions:
which battery carries more of the electrical load?

has anyone added jumper cable plugs and which way did they go about it?

 

I did a similar mod on my truck just recently. I made a bracket that mounts to the back side of the bumper mounting bracket and let me mount the connector on it. I then ran the cables down under the frame and up the inside of the engine compartment to the battery and connected the ends at the battery. I have the 6.7 diesel and did this on the driver's side battery. I'll see if I can get some pics taken and show how I did the bracket and ran the cables. There is some cable bundled up behind the front bumper, but that's cause the cable's I have have about a 6 ft lead on them. I'll upload the pics as soon as I can get them taken so you can see what I did.

UPDATE: Here's the pics.

Connector mounted on front bumper

Connector from drivers side of truck

Negative battery cable

Positive battery cable

Cables running to bottom of truck

Cables crossing over and back up behind bumper.

Hope this helps.

 

Rigid 6" bars, cubes and yellow sae fogs tag in torklift 10k hitch,350 amp andersen connector with 2/0 welding cable

350 amp andersen connector with 2/0 welding cable

NVX BIR500 500 amp battery isolator going to front /rear plugs and upfitter switch #6
these are run from driver side battery on my '19 6.7

i have a cable set that has a andersen connector on one end and battery clamps on other.
i had initially thought i would put a reciever mount winch, but havent done it yet.
the anderson plugs are handy for smaller clamps like a portable compressor, and i have used that on trailer tires with a slow leak, and to power a electric tounge jack on a trailer without a battery
I made the cables with crimp lugs to the length needed and used 2/0 copper welding cable to help minimize current loss.
brackets were made to attach to andersen connectors for mounting to get the offset i wanted.


napa clamps
powerwerks
connectors and covers
isolator

 

Very nice install. One question, how did you connect to the battery itself? On my '22 there isn't a threaded stud on the driver side battery terminal.

-W

 

Looks neat. I just carry a NOCO jumpbox.

 

I just carry a hefty set of traditional cables in the toolbox. I am confused by the idea that there isn't a way to route the cables because I have a plow on my truck. There is a set of power cables and the control wires/connector run behind/through my front bumper no problem. Power leads are wired to the passenger side battery, they come though to behind the grille under the rad support. Control cable comes from the driver side and is routed similarly.

Doesn't matter which battery you connect to on the factory system, they are wired together all the time.

 

When I swapped my old batteries for AGM batteries, I got the marine style with extra posts. I connected the jumper cable kit to those extra posts on the driver's side battery. I ran the cable to an opening in the grille via the gap above and behind the top of the bumper.

 

this way worked. Was able to pop the upper molding loose and run it to the passenger side battery. Plug hangs right behind the grille.

 

Where’d you find that battery at. Gonna upgrade the batteries in a few months and would definitely benefit from that

 

I modified the factory cables to have an additional mounting stud. I have 1/0 welding cable running to Anderson connectors fore and aft. I modified a set of heavy duty jumper cables to have an Anderson connector on the end.









When not in use it tucks out of sight behind the license plate.

 

I am in the process of setting mine up the same way. I have my winch in a cradle and I have everything except the battery isolator as I am not sure if I am going to use one yet. I have enough 2/0 cable to run to the back, the front, and make a set of jumper cables.

 

On my last truck I pulled the positive off the starter and the negative off the engine block ground.

 

I have 2 AWG cable running fore and aft, and use a 12k Badlands (old style) winch. I have a lead extender so I can use the winch on my trailer as well and still reach the power from the truck. 2 AWG is under rated for the potential load from the winch, but I have already pulled 8000lb trucks up on the trailer with all 4 tires locked and the cable never even got warm. That's as much load as this thing is ever going to see, so I'm not worried about it. With that said, I don't see anybody mention here about using any sort of protection like a breaker, fuse, etc. I have a breaker in line on mine, so it is easily reset if it does trip for some reason. Very much worth considering, as these large cables can be pretty dangerous if they get pinched in an accident.

I added a stud to my driver's side terminal just like Bmanfx4 did above.

One thing that I did that I haven't seen mentioned above is adding a continuous duty solenoid. I don't really want all that cable under the truck being live all the time, even with a fuse inline. I have upfitter 3 hooked up to activate the solenoid, so if I need to use my winch, I just flip the switch and power it up and turn it off again when I'm done.

I don't have a picture of the plug in the front, but out back I drilled a few holes in my Steel Craft bumper and mounted the plug directly under the drop step of the bumper so it is fairly protected, and still easily accessible.