Hello All...Thanks to each of you who provided feedback on the first question I posted. The information provided was "right on track" and saved me hundreds. (As well as taught me something during the process.)

I have an 89 F150 short bed. There are four (4) nickle sized holes in the tailgate where a "Chrome" panel was installed, and a couple of very small holes where the "F150" emblems were attached to the bottom of the front fenders, close to the doors.

I have purchased a "Body Repair" manual, and think I have figured out how to patch these.

For some reason, (as I have noticed on other 89's) the paint is peeling on the hood and roof. Other than that, the body is perfect. The original paint is a Clear Coat Black.

I want to repaint it myself. Gotta keep learning. It is "yard truck" so a perfect finish is not only un-needed, but un-wanted as well. I have purchased a small compressor, and have found an economical "automotive" type gun that my compressor will satisfy.

I don't have an enclosed garage or "paint booth" to work in. I will either paint it outdoors, or fabricate some sort of "tent" out of plastic sheeting.

Now, for the questions:

Anyone have any experience or suggestions on an inexpensive, yet functional paint booth construction?

Must I sand all the way down to the primer on sections of paint that appear to be in good shape? Must I rough these "good" sections up first?

Based on my research so far, I plan to use a 2 stage clear coat finish (black). Any thoughts?

As I mentioned previously, I am just learning.... So please weigh in on any and all topics I have mentioned. Sure, I COULD pay someone to do it..... but what would I LEARN?

Thanks in advance for all of your help,

Jim Prince

 

I just did what you are getting ready to do...painted my 93 with a metallic single stage though. The 93 had the peeling paint on the hood which I sanded down to metal and re-primed.

Did it with a 12 gallon/3hp compressor and the spray gun that came with it- holds about a quart.

Actually looks pretty good from about 10 feet away- up close you can pick out some sags/runs.

The problems I ran into were

Sags
Orange peel
Overspray from trying to do a piece at a time.

After first try- had to wetsand the whole thing down to get the orange peel texture and overspray out.

Went at it again and turned out pretty good- exept for a few sags/drips.

My advice

Avoid metallic paint- can't fix problems very well afterwords.

Prep is everything- the paint will not cover textures/problems very much, and if it does then you're probably gonna have runs from putting the paint on too thick.

Watch your temp- don't know where you live but outside is pretty much impossible this time of year in Michigan. The quicker the paint sets up the less chance of runs (more heat) but also the more chance of overspray if you mist an area that has set up.

Don't kill yourself with fire or paint fumes. Wear a appropriate mask and turn off heaters/motors in area with paint fumes will be.

What I noticed is that afterwords I'm wishing about just doing something a little different to get the factory quality job out of it. On the other hand it was cheap, I learned and the truck looks much better than when I started.

I used to paint houses for a living so I had knowledge of paint and a little experience with spraying before this-

 

<cr>
Black? Wowser !! You're taking on a tough first time project. Black shows every flaw that exists.

As far as I'm concerned, a basecoat/clearcoat is the only way to go for a first time painter. Basecoat is near impossible to screw up and if you do, merely sand it and reshoot. Plan on colorsanding and buffing the clearcoat. At the very minimum, you will have orange peel.

Assuming it does not have multiple layers of paint, you do not need to sand to the primer. You just need to sand until you reach good paint. Remember to wash and degrease before you sand. Also, shoot some sealer before you apply your finish coat. The old paint needs to be protected from the solvents.

Your entire rig needs to be sanded (assuming of course you want the paint to stick). Paint 'sticks' either because the new paint melts into the previous coat or because it grabs a rough surface. Your new paint will not melt into the old paint so you have to roughen up the old paint.

I've painted outdoors. I've painted in cattle stalls. I've painted in garages and barns. They all work if you pick your time and work conditions.

I've seen painting stalls constructed out of PVC pipe and covered with plastic. You might also want to consider a 10' X 20' patio cover.

Three cheers
Great attitude. Every painter had a learning phase and a first time job. Go for it. Just plan on some extra time and materials to fix those problems that will occur.

 

Thanks Guys. I really appreciate the help and the encouragement. I have already decided, this will be a "baby step" production. Like my NEXT step.....To take the shell off of the back of the truck. (Smile)

To make sure I understand, the steps to follow are:

Wash
De-Grease
Sand
Any Body Work
Sand
Wash
Degrease
Primer
Guide Coat
Sand
Base Color
Sand
Base Color
Clear Coat
Wet Sand
Clear Coat
Wet Sand
Polish
Buff

Please make any necessary corrections.

Also, Please let me know HOW MUCH paint and clear coat I will need.

Ya'll are the greatest! Thanks from an Old Man in North Carolina.

Jim

"It is very easy to avoid criticism. Simply DO nothing, SAY nothing, and BE nothing." Aristotle

 

<cr>
No sanding between the basecoat and clearcoat. Well, that's sort of correct. Some basecoats do allow small imperfections to be sanded out but you can never sand metallics.

Clearcoat is designed to be applied directly over the top of the basecoat (after an average flashtime of about 30 minutes) without sanding.

How much paint? Oh man. I hate that question. Well, figure on at least a gallon of clear. Buy a gallon of paint, paint the bed, jams and cab interior, and then decide if you have enough to finish. If more paint is needed, it won't be a big issue since any color mismatch wouldn't show up.

The first car I painted was a VW bug. Exterior, interior, trunk, and engine compartment. I had 2, 3 quart containers of custom mixed paint that was left over from someone elses job. I got them for $5/quart ($30 total). I mixed them all together and started painting. After dropping a cup full, repainting both doors 2 or 3 times, and repainting fenders several times, I ended up using all 6 quarts. It was a real learning process and at times I thought about calling it quits. The scariest part was the paint would of been near impossible to match if I needed more paint. Luckly I had decided to buy the 6 quarts instead of only 3.

By the way, now old are you? You can't be as old as me. Did you sing, 'MIC KEY MOUSE' sitting in front of round, black and white TV?

 

Got it..... Thanks for "Trueing" me up. This project truck I have been discussing, came with the Clear Coat Black from the factory. It just has not aged well. As far as the bed, door jambs, or interior is concerned, that finish is still perfect. (Full Bed liner and inside kept emaculate.) So all I will be spraying is the hood, front fenders, doors, rear cab exterior, bed sidewalls and exterior tail gate sections. I went outside this afternoon after your previous post and took off the shell, the front and rear bumbers, and the highway mirrors. PROGRESS!!!!........ Since you have been so nice to help me along, let me ask a more specific question. It pertains to body work I need to do. I have some images, but unfortunately I can not post them for some reason. Anyway, the extent of the body work needed is as follows: a few areas where over the years I have used a spray can of touch up paint on scratches, and several holes left behind when I removed the body side moulding, rear chrome of of the tail gate, and the F150 Emblems from the bottom of the front fenders. Sanding the spay can stuff will not be hard. I have researched the other and here is what I have found.

It is my understanding that i must first "counter sink" the areas around the holes, extending at least 1/2". Once done, sand to bare metal. I bought some "Cut to fit" self adhesive aluminum mesh to fabricate a circle to fit down in the recessed area around the hole. Then Us body filler as directed to fill the holes.

That all sounds pretty good to me..... BUT..... Will those little circles of mesh be enough to hold the body filler in place? Additionally, the other holes are less than 3/8" in diameter. Must I perform the "Counter sink" method on these too?

Teach me, Guide me, Tell me what to do..... JUST let me do it..... Smile.

Any and all help is sincerley appreciated.

Jim Prince

 

Hey... I figured out how to add the pictures to the gallery. I have included a shot of the large holes left by the chrome tail gate piece, a shot of the small holes left by the tail gate piece, and the small fender holes left by the F150 Emblem.

Any and All help is genuinley appreciated....

Jim

 

Well now, I'm not in favor of filling holes with anything except metal.

On the larger hole I might go two different ways depend on what is on the backside.

The first way would be to cut a patch to fill the hole and then mig it in. The quick way would be to cut a patch slightly larger than the hole and weld it onto the panel. The first way is a more professional approach but of course, requires a little more skill.

My decision on how to approach the problem would depend on the backside area. If the patch was in an area that would not collect mud and moisture than I would probably go with the quick and dirty method. With nothing to attack the patch from the backside, the patch will probably last longer than the truck.

After the patch was welded in, I would dimple the area with a body hammer. This creates a low area you fill with filler. By dimpling, I mean hitting it with a hammer until it is slightly lower than the panel. Tap, tap, tap. Not hammer, hammer, hammer.

The majority of the low spot would be filled with fiberglass filler. That way if any moisture gets through the patch, the filler will not be damaged. I would finish up with regular filler (AKA Bondo).

On the smaller holes, I would fill them with a mig and then grind flush with the panel. If your mig skills aren't up to snuff, hold a piece of copper (I use a piece of smashed copper water pipe) on the backside. The weld won't stick to the copper.

The smaller holes would also be dimpled with a body hammer and finished up with filler. On the small hole, I normally skip the fiberglass filler.

If you decide to go with the mesh patch just remember that your patch will be attacked from the backside. Rust can set in, causing a weakening of the patch. At the very minimum, I would apply a thick layer of undercoating to the backside after you get your rig painted.

You need to countersink all of your work. If you don't, the patch may show after you have painted. On a 1/4" hole, I usually give myself a dimpled area at least 1 1/2" in size (wide, not deep). After filler, polyester filler, and 2K primer, the patched area will completely disappear.

Hope this makes sense.

 

That Make PERFECT sense. I will go to my welding buddies tomorrow and tell em to fill 'er up!...... Thanks for your help.....

BTW, I tried to send you an email, but my "JR." status will not allow that action. I did however, track you down and tried to get your phone number.... (Unlisted)....... So much for technology...

Do you live anywhere close to Hood River? I have driven up the Columbia River Gorge several times going to HR for work..... I LOVE the Pacific Northwest.

I will keep you posted on my progress,

Jim

 

<cr>
I'm in the Salem area. I'll check to see if I can send you some email.