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with the 20lb dana saved by using flimsy thin wall tubes, they should of atleast done something productive and incorporated a limited slip into the locker
A 2wd with a locker will give you better traction than 4wd with double open differentials.
you can be in a position where one front and one rear wheel is off the ground and/or in low traction surface. In this scenario torque will go to both low/zero traction wheels and your truck won’t move. At least with a rear locker one wheel will have traction.
I have not found this to be true in practice. 4wd is much much better off-road than a locked rear end. This is true for my truck and for my UTV. You can imagine situations where one or the other would be preferred but in every real case I’ve experienced, 4wd is superior.
20158513]I have not found this to be true in practice. 4wd is much much better off-road than a locked rear end. This is true for my truck and for my UTV. You can imagine situations where one or the other would be preferred but in every real case I’ve experienced, 4wd is superior.
To each their own, and it’s very dependent on the terrain encountered. My point comes from a worse case scenario. Here is a video demonstrating the different types of 4wd/locker/traction control; go to 1 min 44 secs to see what happens with 4wd in a cross tire traction situation. I’ve been there. My 4wd was worthless. A 2wd with a locker could have gotten out of there better than 4wd with open diffs
Great advice guys. I had to replace my order with the Electronic Locking Axle, but I would rather do that, then pay 65K and be missing something I really need. I do plan to have this in upstate NY a lot and my driveway needs to be 3" of snow all the time (getting the snowmobiles out). Thanks again.
Good choice Walt, I use the e-locker every time I get in my truck at the house. I keep the truck in my workshop that is about a 100' downhill from the main house on a road base driveway. As soon as I am moving straight I pop on the locker and get enough momentum to carry me up to the concrete driveway, I turn it off just short of the concrete to allow enough distance for it to fully disengage so not to bind the tires on the dry concrete. Without it or putting it in 4x4, the one tire will toss rocks everywhere.
you can be in a position where one front and one rear wheel is off the ground and/or in low traction surface. In this scenario torque will go to both low/zero traction wheels and your truck won’t move. At least with a rear locker one wheel will have traction.
I went up my deer lease for 7 years in an 81 Chevy with rear posi-trac and never had a problem. Took my 96 Jeep Cherokee up and got into a situation where one front and one rear had no traction and it stopped me in my tracks. Will only have posi or locker from now on. Preferably locker.
I went up my deer lease for 7 years in an 81 Chevy with rear posi-trac and never had a problem. Took my 96 Jeep Cherokee up and got into a situation where one front and one rear had no traction and it stopped me in my tracks. Will only have posi or locker from now on. Preferably locker.
IDK about 81’ Chevys but 90s and current ones have what’s called a G80 locker. It’s a unique design. It’s 100% mechanical and once it detects slip it engages at FULL lock. So it’s the same thing as a selectable locker but without the need to push a button. It’s awesome when it works but it can be slow to engage at times and they have been know to grenade like a CP4 pump and it takes out the entire differential… I’m still a fan, I had one in my 18’ Silverado and got me thru some thick, deep mud in the desert.
wow. You misunderstood his post and basically said the same thing he said. I dont think anybody thought he said the front axle locked, just hubs.
I certainly didn’t mean any offense. My “negative” probably came off that way, I tend to be too direct sometimes. He has since added the “hubs” part to his sentence. Look at my quote and it wasn’t originally there. The OP stated, “getting out of the vehicle and turning the locks myself?” Which conflated the two to those who are new to lockers/hubs/etc.
I commented bc a lot of people don’t understand the difference between hub locks and differential lockers and I wanted to make that clear to readers new to learning about lockers etc…
I certainly didn’t mean any offense. My “negative” probably came off that way, I tend to be too direct sometimes. He has since added the “hubs” part to his sentence. Look at my quote and it wasn’t originally there. I only commented bc a lot of people don’t understand the difference between hub locks and differential lockers and I wanted to make that clear to readers new to learning about lockers etc…
I obviously ment hubs I was talking axel not differential. The hubs have to lock to get turned by the axel. The OP mentioned getting out and locking
I obviously ment hubs I was talking axel not differential. The hubs have to lock to get turned by the axel. The OP mentioned getting out and locking
I know you meant axles. My post was to help other understand the difference between locking the hubs and an axle locker, since this threads main title was about axle lockers. I have helped many understand 4wd systems and a lot, myself included, thought hub locks locked up the differentials. I didn’t mean offense towards you, I apologize if it came across that way. I just wanted other potential readers to understand the difference.
I certainly didn’t mean any offense. My “negative” probably came off that way, I tend to be too direct sometimes. He has since added the “hubs” part to his sentence. Look at my quote and it wasn’t originally there. The OP stated, “getting out of the vehicle and turning the locks myself?” Which conflated the two to those who are new to lockers/hubs/etc.
I commented bc a lot of people don’t understand the difference between hub locks and differential lockers and I wanted to make that clear to readers new to learning about lockers etc…
I dunno if 2WD with an e-locker rear is going to trump a full 4WD in a given situation, but I am certain I called it right when building my 5th wheel tow vehicle.
I didn't want 4 wheel drive and the $3500 cost, plus MPG, ride, maintenance and all that comes with it. (Weird, I know) If I lived in snowy areas or on a farm my decision would have been different. In my situation I just don't need 4X4. Especially since the e-locker will assist/get-me-out-of any predicament I'm willing to get into, such as gravel campsites, grass, light snow and such.
But mainly I have built a reasonably economical pavement queen tow vehicle that rides and drives real nice.
I dunno if 2WD with an e-locker rear is going to trump a full 4WD in a given situation, but I am certain I called it right when building my 5th wheel tow vehicle.
I didn't want 4 wheel drive and the $3500 cost, plus MPG, ride, maintenance and all that comes with it. (Weird, I know) If I lived in snowy areas or on a farm my decision would have been different. In my situation I just don't need 4X4. Especially since the e-locker will assist/get-me-out-of any predicament I'm willing to get into, such as gravel campsites, grass, light snow and such.
But mainly I have built a reasonably economical pavement queen tow vehicle that rides and drives real nice.
I didn't want 4x4 either (cost & ride) and I wanted all speeds lock up of rear axle.
Also, wanted to stay far away from any Death Wobble
So instead of ordering a 4x4 I ordered a standard 4x2 and then installed a Detroit Tru-Trac.
Yes, it costs about $1,500 to do this, but I now have a positive traction at all speeds and whether turning or going straight