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Go on youtube and check 6.0 engine repairs. Dieseltech Ron explains the work so that it is easy to understand. Remove the left motormount and drop the engine to the frame. You will get access to both sides of the engine and will not have to touch the airconditioning. The heads are heavy so an engine hoist is needed to remove and replace the heads. I did it myself in my driveway. It isnt hard, just do your research and buy good ford parts. There are Chinese knockoffs out there that wont hold up. Headf studs by ARP Dont cheap out.
Gotta ask the dumb question. Have you gone thru the steps to make sure it’s the head gaskets and not something else like the egr cooler? Maybe you got lucky and previous owner mis diagnosed?
Gotta ask the dumb question. Have you gone thru the steps to make sure it’s the head gaskets and not something else like the egr cooler? Maybe you got lucky and previous owner mis diagnosed?
That is a smart question. Rig up a coolant pressure gauge and let the engine warm up from being dead cold and record pressure. Open the degas cap to relieve pressure and driveit more and see if the pressure returns. If it does you have an EGR or head gasket issue. From there troubleshoot EGR system then last resort head gaskets.
As Jester said, make sure you actually have blown HGs first. There's nothing more misdiagnosed as a 6.0 blown HG. If you've still got your EGR cooler, there's a very good chance it's simply a blown EGR cooler. Even if the EGR is deleted, I'd do the coolant pressure test to prove it. You can find examples of it with a quick search, but here's the jist....
Hook a pressure gauge up on the small tube going into the degas bottle. Run the tubing in to the truck and put the gage inside the truck where you can see it.
Make sure the coolant is at the proper level....not above the low level indicator. Take the truck out and warm it up. Design pressure for the coolant system is 16 psi. If you've got a blown HG or EGR cooler it will climb higher than that.. Once everything is up to temps and pressure, go release the pressure in the degas bottle by removing the cap. Reinstall the cap. Run the truck some more. The pressure should not climb more than 1 or 2 psi after you have relieved the pressure....unless you have a blown EGR cooler or blown HG.
It is reported (I have no personal experience with this) a blown HG will give you a fast pressure climb vs the pressure climb with a blown EGR cooler. Reportedly, a blown HG would climb about 5psi in a 3 to 5 seconds. A blown EGR cooler would take around 10 seconds or more. I've never done this, so I cannot vouch for the accuracy.
Or, you can simply delete/change the egr cooler, put in back together, then see what the pressure does. As stated earlier, you could have gotten very lucky
I ran into the identical situation about 3 weeks ago. Looking at a 6.0 building pressure in the degas. Everybody was claiming it was a blown HG. Even the owner was convinced of it. After working with it about 30 minutes, I was confident it was the EGR cooler. But the truck was rather beat up, so I passed. Had it been a nice truck, I'd have gotten it very cheap and only put an EGR cooler in it.
To do the cam the engine has to come out. Not sure if this was already mentioned. Mine finally gave up the ghost with low compression on #6 at 189k miles. Ended up doing a full rebuild during which I discovered the reason. Lifter and cam failure on #6 exhaust. Which we think was trapping excessive combustion temps in the piston causing the rings to give out. I went with a Colt Stage 2 cam and Ford lifters. Good luck. B.
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