crankshaft bolt question
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 89
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From: Central New York
crankshaft bolt question
crankshaft bolt question
Hey guys,
Vehicle is a 89 F-250 351w....just put a new timing cover and w/p in her. Went to put the balancer on and the bolt wouldnt thread in. I took a look at the threads and there was a ding in the end, I assumed when I impacted it out, it might of hit the inside of the balancer. I tried to grind off a couple threads, but couldnt get it just right, and I dont want to screw up the threads in the crank. Now my question is, does anybody have a clue of what size this bolt is? Or is this something I can match up at the hardware store. Aint it amazing how ya can tear 1/2 your engine apart and a $2 part comes along and kicks ya in the a**....lol
Thanks in advance, Rod
Hey guys,
Vehicle is a 89 F-250 351w....just put a new timing cover and w/p in her. Went to put the balancer on and the bolt wouldnt thread in. I took a look at the threads and there was a ding in the end, I assumed when I impacted it out, it might of hit the inside of the balancer. I tried to grind off a couple threads, but couldnt get it just right, and I dont want to screw up the threads in the crank. Now my question is, does anybody have a clue of what size this bolt is? Or is this something I can match up at the hardware store. Aint it amazing how ya can tear 1/2 your engine apart and a $2 part comes along and kicks ya in the a**....lol
Thanks in advance, Rod
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 89
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From: Central New York
Not yet JW. Gonna try to get down to the hardware store tonight hopefully. Defintely need to tap out the crank threads though. The tip on my balancer puller is a soft metal so the first grove or so on the crank threads are alittle cloged up with fine shavings from the tip. Next time I pull a balancer off, I think I'm gonna use a washer(w/ a small hole) thats the size of the crank so the tip of the puller doesn't even touch the threads.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Central New York
No luck finding it at the hardware store. You were right Mac. They had the 1/2 and 3/8, but I beleive this is the 5/8.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Woodruff, SC
Have you looked in Summits or Jegs website? I remember Mr Gasket used to make a replacement crankshaft bolt for Chevys maybe they make one for Fords.
Edit: I found one at Summit click here: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
Edit: I found one at Summit click here: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
Last edited by TheWiz427; Nov 5, 2003 at 05:55 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Sounds like the problem is more that the first thread(s) in the crank have been folded over by the balancer puller. If that's the case, you might be able to remove the first (damaged) thread with a dremel or make the I.D. chamfer bigger with a chamfer cutter (big drill bit). If you try to run a tap into the hole, you risk starting the tap crooked or in the wrong place due to the damage where you have to start the tap. Keep looking for a thread file. I have seen one that even has a set-up on the end for I.D. threads.
BTW, I usually leave the bolt in the crank (with the washer off and threaded in about 4 or 5 threads) to get the balancer started. Once it gets to the bolt, it doesn't take much pressure to get it the rest of the way off. I know that doesn't help much now, just something to keep in mind for the next time.
BTW, I usually leave the bolt in the crank (with the washer off and threaded in about 4 or 5 threads) to get the balancer started. Once it gets to the bolt, it doesn't take much pressure to get it the rest of the way off. I know that doesn't help much now, just something to keep in mind for the next time.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MIAMI FL
Crank Bolt
Unrelated to your issue.
In the future when removing the torsional damper it is possible to thread the bolt back into the hole and let the puller press on the head rather than booger up the threads. On the puller I've got the hardened point on the tool comes off and works great like this.
In the future when removing the torsional damper it is possible to thread the bolt back into the hole and let the puller press on the head rather than booger up the threads. On the puller I've got the hardened point on the tool comes off and works great like this.
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Junior User
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From: Central New York
welp....gonna perform the surgery tonight. The bolt is good now. I ground off the first 2 threads, found a nut to fit it, and it goes in fine. Now for the crank. took a close look and the threads are good. The problem is, there really isnt a starting point. As you said earlier mac, I mushed the first thread. Although it doesn't appear to be severe. Im gonna go w/ the dremel idea. If I grind out the first thread all should be fine. So, if your wondering where I am, I'll be sitting under my rig w/ my head popped up between the radiator and crankshaft. wish me luck...later
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