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CP4 Pump Failure

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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 10:21 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by cfpinz
Has anyone here ever had a CP4 fail on their personal truck? Or have personal knowledge of someone with a failure?

I'm trying to decide whether one of the DPK's is worth installing, or just leave well enough alone.

Thank You.
6.7s CP4 go all the time. Same item with a higher psi transfer pump (F-150 has that pump in the tank) and outlets face the back instead of front. Even a cheap DPK will save you 1000s, just like the 9micron cr@p sold on amazon. If the pump does not fail, it still will shed metal particles into your injectors and fuel system. The Injector valves will wear faster and leak after cycle. The spacer where the pin hits on the back side of the valve causes an indentation and additional gap when that gap gets bigger, by a few mil, will not allow the same fuel to flow through the injector or vary the fuel supply to each cylinder. The idea is the pin in the valve, when that gap is larger from wear, changes the response time of the fuel return, and so the fuel given through is reduced.
 

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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by findre
I asked my Ford parts guy why if there is a core charge, that their are no Ford Certified rebuilds? He explained that the reason Ford charges for a CP4 core, is so the bad part is turned in to be destroyed, and won't be available for quality rebuilds. They know CP4 is bad, but do not want anyone else having access to the core to undercut their price.
Originally Posted by findre
6.7s CP4 go all the time. Same item with a higher psi transfer pump (F-150 has that pump in the tank) and outlets face the back instead of front. Even a cheap DPK will save you 1000s, just like the 9micron cr@p sold on amazon. If the pump does not fail, it still will shed metal particles into your injectors and fuel system. The Injector valves will wear faster and leak after cycle. The spacer where the pin hits on the back side of the valve causes an indentation and additional gap when that gap gets bigger, by a few mil, will not allow the same fuel to flow through the injector or vary the fuel supply to each cylinder. The idea is the pin in the valve, when that gap is larger from wear, changes the response time of the fuel return, and so the fuel given through is reduced.
Revived an older thread. Ford will never give up the golden data of how many CP4s have gone out from fuel related issues and you cannot count user error like putting gasoline or DEF into the fuel tank, as I'm sure there's a few of those.

A mechanic, former Ford tech, who works at my buddy's garage says he hasn't seen a lot of them but he has seen them.

As to CP4s "going all the time," yes they do go but not all the time. The infamous 922k mile 2017 6.7 Powerstroke of YouTube fame had it's original CP4 in it but it was actually 892k miles the original engine went but this specific truck is referenced as the 922k mile truck... IIRC.

BUT, that owner used fuel additives religiously and usually overdosed, which I tend to do, and that is key to not only the amount of miles on the CP4, but its new like internal condition.

CP4s can last on good fuel, the use of additives and regular fuel filter changes. If you don't use additives, its a crap shoot IMO because it's not like you can stick your head into the underground fuel tank and check out the "frequently used fuel station." Again, that's my opinion... others will vary.

My truck has about 145.6k miles today... and I use additives religiously and have been since new. YMMV. I also have a S&S Gen 2 Dpk installed since 07/23...

To say that "CP4s go all the time" is a very misleading statement without knowing how many went from actual fuel issues and not user error, compared to the actual number of 6.7s with CP4s out.here still running with many miles.

I will agree that the Bosch CP4 HPFP was designed on the Euro fuel rated at 460 scar rating compared to our 520 scar rated US fuel. That's why I run additives, for additional lubricity, but most ULSD fuel sold here in the US has up to a B5 content but it does not have to listed on the pump and this provides more lubricity as well but also presents a other problem >>> moisture.

ULSD fuel absorbs and holds more water than the old school fuel. Add in biodiesel, and it's a double whammy. That's also why I use my additives as well because water in fuel will cause a major lubricity problem for the CP4 which like the injectors, uses fuel as lubrication when its doing its job.

So there is more to this than just "CP4s go all the time." Some guys have had luck without running additive, some run them some of the time and there are the guys like me who run them all the time. Again, YMMV...

Additives remind me of concealed carry. I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and NOT HAVE IT...

Have a good day.
 

Last edited by Overkill2; Nov 3, 2025 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Correct post
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 01:11 PM
  #18  
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The “all the time” comment got me too. That’s quite misleading. Overkill nailed it.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by chadstickpoindexter
The “all the time” comment got me too. That’s quite misleading. Overkill nailed it.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 01:43 PM
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Forgot to post this in my reply...

 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 02:17 PM
  #21  
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OK you got me. Me being a 7.3 guy with typical HPOP hose or IPR issues, and now a 6.7 with S&S DPK kit, and also a TDV6 Range Rover, I just figured out that it also has a CP4......it scared me at 165k miles. I know at least 3 people that have had 6.7 CP4 disasters, hence my DPK. With the piezo injectors, even a non critical failure still leaves a lot of extra stuff floating around system. I really think that because I drive a lot and change filters more than often, I have saved the Range and 6.7 from damage.
So while I said, while I say "all the time", I say that relative to my 7.3 400k+ or Mercedes 600k mile experiences. There should never be a CP4 disaster but it does happen more than it should.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 04:09 PM
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I agree, it happens more than it should, however, there are lots engines with failures that shouldn't have happened. Personally, I may have seen 1 person have issues with their fuel system. Saying that, I don't know a ton of people with 6.7's, or CP4's, but after a day of reading the internet I would think that everyone I know either should have had, or is about to have a complete melt down because of it. I just think it gets overhyped.

As for that 1 person I knew, it was my aunt. I would imagine it was a mid teens model, but not sure. Also, she just said that she bought it used with 27k miles and one day she pulled up to a gas station to run inside (not fill up). She said when she came back outside there was fluid running from under her truck and someone told her it was diesel. She got it towed to a Ford dealership and was told the entire motor needed to be replaced. She doesn't know what exactly happened... and I am imagine she didn't really understand the truck enough to really ask relevant questions. So, I have no idea what actually happened, but there is a very good chance that whatever may have happened, happened due to negligence. I would imagine a number of those reported CP4 failures are also due to the same thing... Maybe I am wrong.

PS. I am not defending the CP4, nor saying it is the best option. Like you, I also have a DPK installed on mine and I routinely run additives. Just trying to distinguish facts from everything else...
 

Last edited by chadstickpoindexter; Nov 3, 2025 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 04:13 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by findre
OK you got me. Me being a 7.3 guy with typical HPOP hose or IPR issues, and now a 6.7 with S&S DPK kit, and also a TDV6 Range Rover, I just figured out that it also has a CP4......it scared me at 165k miles. I know at least 3 people that have had 6.7 CP4 disasters, hence my DPK. With the piezo injectors, even a non critical failure still leaves a lot of extra stuff floating around system. I really think that because I drive a lot and change filters more than often, I have saved the Range and 6.7 from damage.
So while I said, while I say "all the time", I say that relative to my 7.3 400k+ or Mercedes 600k mile experiences. There should never be a CP4 disaster but it does happen more than it should.
I get it... but as we all know, there's no engine out there that does not have it's unique set of problems, like most mechanical things do.

And for what its worth, I run my filters, authentic MC FD4615 set, out to close to the max of 22.5k miles, which many will not agree with me but that's okay because I believe I buy good clean fuel at the carwash chain here in WNY and use additives that I believe work and keep things in great shape every tank. Don't care what people think or say, but my filters come out nice and clean with a light tan color, no dark brown or black which would indicate alphaltenes plugging the filter.

Finish later
 

Last edited by Overkill2; Nov 3, 2025 at 04:14 PM. Reason: Add to post
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 04:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
I get it... but as we all know, there's no engine out there that does not have it's unique set of problems, like most mechanical things do.

And for what its worth, I run my filters, authentic MC FD4615 set, out to close to the max of 22.5k miles, which many will not agree with me but that's okay because I believe I buy good clean fuel at the carwash chain here in WNY and use additives that I believe work and keep things in great shape every tank. Don't care what people think or say, but my filters come out nice and clean with a light tan color, no dark brown or black which would indicate alphaltenes plugging the filter.

Finish later
I know the stations I buy at are busy and serve lots diesel here in FL. My filters are always dark and have had to drain water on occasion. My VW TDI V10 would get so dirty in 12-15k that the car would not pass 20mph on a cold day. I do filters at 10k and keep a spare in the trunk in case. Its always hot
and swampy down here, not sure if that makes a difference. But I love diesel and wont change to gas as my daily driver.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 06:07 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by findre
I know the stations I buy at are busy and serve lots diesel here in FL. My filters are always dark and have had to drain water on occasion. My VW TDI V10 would get so dirty in 12-15k that the car would not pass 20mph on a cold day. I do filters at 10k and keep a spare in the trunk in case. Its always hot
and swampy down here, not sure if that makes a difference. But I love diesel and wont change to gas as my daily driver.
Yeah I'm a guy who wants to drive a diesel and does not need to...

This is my primary filter from my last change... 22.2k miles on the set...



Like I stated, I believe I am getting quality fuel from where I buy from but... I also credit K100D, that I have been using since new, with keeping my fuel system in good shape. And it... is why I do not check for water and do not worry about water. The only times I've drained my DFCM has been at 20k plus miles when I've changed the filters... I let my truck tell me when to change the oil, and change my fuel filters every third oil change.

Is it the best? Nope... I would not know nor ever claim that, as a few here would allude to... but, I use it, I trust it and it works for me.

I also use a combo of Pittsburgh Power's additives which are Max Mileage FBC additive and their Flashpoint additive... FP adds more cetane to fuel than K100D does.

K100 is a fuel stabilizer, adds 1.5 to 2 points of cetane, fuel system cleaner, adds lubricity, anti-gel, dissolves alphaltenes back into fuel and controls water... it's an all in one additive. I have zero affiliation with K100 and was introduced to it by a worker at Advance Auto when I first bought my truck.

The Pittsburgh Power Flashpoint is similar to K100 but adds more cetane. Their Max Mileage FBC additive is rebranded Better Diesel FBC additive. I use that for the DPF. They are mixed in a 10 oz of FP to 6 Oz of MM combo. I keep the K100D in a 16 oz dosing bottle as well in a cheap Harbor Freight ammo can in the back seat. No smell because it has a rubber seal.

Overkill? Maybe... Driving a diesel truck I don't need? Most definitely overkill. And I won't drive my truck without using these additives... yes, overkill.

But that's just me and I'm just posting for FYI only. Folks can either look into this or ignore it. Just passing on in case anyone was interested in doing their own research. YMMV...
 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 08:18 PM
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I know one person who has had a CP4 failure. And I see a lot of Ford trucks on construction jobsites.
The one who had a failure. Ran his truck over 100,000 miles and never changed the fuel filter. At about 105,000 his CP4 failed. It cost him $10,000 to get it fixed.

I could be wrong, But it seems to me we have a big influx of failures after they have cold snap in areas of the country that are not normally cold. I'm guessing Fuel gels and CP4s get starved of fuel and grenades.. Or owners put Diesel 911 in to clean up the gel and find out the alcohol in it, removes all lubrication and destroys the pumps.

I typically change my fuel filter and air filter every other oil change. Which for me is about 18,000-20,000 miles. I use Opti-Lube Summer formula most of the year. (it's more cost effective than the XPD formula) It increases the cetane and adds lubrication. I don't carry any in the truck with me. So it's hit and miss if I remember to add it when I get home. And I definitely don't have any to add on road trips where I might fill up once of twice on the road. During the Coldest months ( Dec-Jan) I will switch to Opti-Lube XPD because it has the Anti-Gel to insure that I don't gel up while parked at a ski resort or some other cold place.


 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by C12H24
It's important to know why the pump failed. Pump failures are not very common and are nearly always due to fuel contamination either by chance or owner error. In the nearly four years I've been on this forum, I've seen only a couple of unexplained, natural failures. These pumps are used both domestically and overseas. There are millions in service. It is very unlikely you will ever have a pump failure if you pay attention when fueling and not dump DEF in the fuel tank, immediately pull off the road if you get a water in fuel warning, change your fuel filters according to factory guidance, and if you live where it routinely gets below freezing to use an anti gel agent if your local fuel isn't treated as such. The additive guys will push all sorts of elixirs be added to the tank, but it's not necessary. If it helps you sleep at night, then by all means. After all, it's not very expensive and it won't cause any harm.
Also, if the lift pump fails, it can take the CP4 out with it.

I "plan" on installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and DPK once I'm out of the warranty period. I'm glad we have the aftermarket support for it.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2025 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by findre
I know the stations I buy at are busy and serve lots diesel here in FL. My filters are always dark and have had to drain water on occasion. My VW TDI V10 would get so dirty in 12-15k that the car would not pass 20mph on a cold day. I do filters at 10k and keep a spare in the trunk in case. Its always hot
and swampy down here, not sure if that makes a difference. But I love diesel and wont change to gas as my daily driver.
I filled up at CEFCO's in NW Florida and always had clean filters. I change mine every 15k. However, I am in CA now and am running all R99... I am curious to see what the filters look like with this fuel...
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by findre
I know the stations I buy at are busy and serve lots diesel here in FL. My filters are always dark and have had to drain water on occasion. My VW TDI V10 would get so dirty in 12-15k that the car would not pass 20mph on a cold day. I do filters at 10k and keep a spare in the trunk in case. Its always hot
and swampy down here, not sure if that makes a difference. But I love diesel and wont change to gas as my daily driver.
Another reason I use my "stuff," is that winter temps here, and they call for double the dose for winter (K100), is for the possible introduction of water into the fuel from condensation forming inside the tank on the walls from the warmed return fuel which warms the fuel tank and the cold air is on the outside of the tank, like a window pane of glass in a house in winter. Someone down south probably wouldn't have to worry so much like a northern guy like myself, but it does get cold at times down south...
 
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Old Nov 4, 2025 | 10:41 AM
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My first Diesel was the 7.3 Stroke in a 99 F350. Beast of an engine, but hated cold weather. Had to replace the water pump at 60K, the glow plugs at 70K, the GP relay before that. It had its fair share of issues, especially that damned cackle. When Ford designed the 6.7, I bet they used the CP4 because it fit what they were doing, the pressure requirements, the size, etc. and because in the EU where it is used to a great extent, had a great track record, it IS a reliable pump, but only if the fuel has lubrication. I'll bet Ford never expected the pump to have issues with the lower lubricity ULSD fuel.

Why didn't Ford replace it? they would have to redesign the engine to accommodate a different pump. BUT I have an issue with Ford in why they DON'T have a specification on using a fuel additive to help protect the pump that they clearly know will have issues with lubricity. They do list a Motorcraft fuel additive, but it is a side note in the manual. Owners should made more aware of the fact the ULSD doesn't provide enough protection, and should have a sticker on the fuel door stating that a fuel additive should be used. Hell if more people had used additives, there would have been fewer failures.

It's not like admitting the pump is a problem, putting a factory DPK in, THAT would be admitting there is a problem. Something as simple as recommending the use of a fuel additive would protect the owner AND Ford.

I know common sense issue, but well, who has it anymore anyway.
 
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