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I recently purchased a 95 e350 7.3 PSD. I bought it as a mechanic special but I'm having to get caught up to speed on the powerstroke/diesel platform.
Here is my issue. no start, smoke coming out tail pipe, I've checked the obvious things and followed the no start flow sheet. I found a single glow plug to be faulty and she still won't start.
ohmed injector solenoid, gp, gpr, and gp harness
replaced valve cover gasket and pigtails
replaced icp and cleaned oil from connector
batteries are new 12.6v each
tested fuses, in both locations surrounding pcm circuit.
I found a forum that lists off 3 different no start scenarios. One of the issues is the pcm, how can I rule out the pcm with a non obd2 compliant vehicle?
Thanks in advance for the assistance. I'm sure I'm forgetting some of the t/s steps I've taken.
If it’s smoking you should be fine to start with either more heat (double check your glow plug system maybe apply power to the glow plug side of the gpr) or it’s not spinning fast enough. Do you know what rpm it’s turning over while cranking? Have you checked battery voltage drop while cranking?
If it’s smoking you should be fine to start with either more heat (double check your glow plug system maybe apply power to the glow plug side of the gpr) or it’s not spinning fast enough. Do you know what rpm it’s turning over while cranking? Have you checked battery voltage drop while cranking?
Originally Posted by 96 OBS
Oh and battery cables and grounds. Gotta have all the POWA! And welcome to FTE!!
Battery cables look good, I haven't checked grounds as of yet but the main one coming off the Batteries seem fine.
The previous owner claimed to be able to start it with ether. I got it to fire up once, it revved high and died.
The starting sounds very even between cylinders but could compression be a big concern at this time?
Slow cranking is a thing as pointed out. Look for a thread by Knottyrope on this subject. Do you have a cord for the block heater? If so, plug it in for three or four hours. It will spin faster and easier due to higher oil temp. I think mine levels off around 120-150F depending upon ambient...and make sure it is full!
Do vans have the same fuel tank pickup the trucks do?
When you stated it ran, was this on starting fluid or the van's fuel system?
How many miles on the injectors? My brother has a 2000 with the 7.3, and it had around 325K on the clock when it would not start when the temp reached 40 degrees F. without being plugged in to the wall socket. Once started it ran ok. Glow plug circuit checked out along with good batteries and starter. A set of injectors turned out to be the fix. as stated plug it in, and if it starts and runs, it may be the injectors.
Slow cranking is a thing as pointed out. Look for a thread by Knottyrope on this subject. Do you have a cord for the block heater? If so, plug it in for three or four hours. It will spin faster and easier due to higher oil temp. I think mine levels off around 120-150F depending upon ambient...and make sure it is full!
Do vans have the same fuel tank pickup the trucks do?
When you stated it ran, was this on starting fluid or the van's fuel system?
I havent seen the plug for the block heater, are they typically held in the same location?
Ambient temp here is ~60 degrees
It ran on starting fluid for 5 seconds and died.
1 Injector ohm measured at 0.4 ohms... seems very low for a solenoid? Considering my other injectors were around 2.3 ohms.
How many miles on the injectors? My brother has a 2000 with the 7.3, and it had around 325K on the clock when it would not start when the temp reached 40 degrees F. without being plugged in to the wall socket. Once started it ran ok. Glow plug circuit checked out along with good batteries and starter. A set of injectors turned out to be the fix. as stated plug it in, and if it starts and runs, it may be the injectors.
Honestly, I have no idea...it appears to have different injectors replaced throughout the years. Because it's an econoline, I'm sure injectors will be really fun.
I havent seen the plug for the block heater, are they typically held in the same location?
Ambient temp here is ~60 degrees
It ran on starting fluid for 5 seconds and died.
1 Injector ohm measured at 0.4 ohms... seems very low for a solenoid? Considering my other injectors were around 2.3 ohms.
Oil level is 3/4
Unless motor is healthy, it will be hard to start in those temps without a working glow system (I know as I like to mess around to see how hard it is to start mine HA). Have you manually closed the GPR and checked for voltage on the output side of it? One wire runs to PCM to ground the relay, one is the switched 12V. Those are both the smaller ones. The large are the constant 12V and switch 12V out to the plugs.
On the block heater, the element is in the oil filter housing. Trucks all seem to have had the cord installed factory. No clue on vans, but would make sense.
How did it sound on starting fluid? Decent compression and stuff? I was going to suggest it with the GP disabled to see if even ran.
If oil level drops too far, the injectors will not pop off due to no HPOP pressure. Top it off with whatever is around the shop.
Any idea its cranking RPM? How much fuel is in the tank? Wondering if the vans have the fuel sender pickup issue the trucks do, where under 1/4 tank you are SOL.
Unless motor is healthy, it will be hard to start in those temps without a working glow system (I know as I like to mess around to see how hard it is to start mine HA). Have you manually closed the GPR and checked for voltage on the output side of it? One wire runs to PCM to ground the relay, one is the switched 12V. Those are both the smaller ones. The large are the constant 12V and switch 12V out to the plugs.
On the block heater, the element is in the oil filter housing. Trucks all seem to have had the cord installed factory. No clue on vans, but would make sense.
How did it sound on starting fluid? Decent compression and stuff? I was going to suggest it with the GP disabled to see if even ran.
If oil level drops too far, the injectors will not pop off due to no HPOP pressure. Top it off with whatever is around the shop.
Any idea its cranking RPM? How much fuel is in the tank? Wondering if the vans have the fuel sender pickup issue the trucks do, where under 1/4 tank you are SOL.
I have resistance checked the glow plug relay, I show battery voltage (12.9 volts, it sits on a battery tender), on the glow plug side I also see similar battery voltage when testing with my DMM. I physically hear the GPR kick on and shut off after 2 minutes, I have checked electrically that it works. I have resistance checked the glow plug circuit coming from the GPR including the glow plugs, only one was found bad.
It sounded great on starting fluid, it revved to the moon and shortly died once my helper stopped spraying fluid. How would I disable glow plugs? unplug the glow plug relay?
I will check for a block heater, THANKS!
the HPOP was full of oil, the fuel bowl was also full (i turned the yellow handle and fluid starting pouring out.
I would say cranking speed is atleast 180 rpm
Fuel level shows 1/3rd
Quick question, would an Autoenginuity diagnostic tool work for my model year pre obd2?