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Picking a WDH

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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 07:59 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Locotenentu
I'm not sure how this all works, but do you really need to transfer more than 1400 lbs of weight on a 2k tongue weight trailer with the truck you have now?
You don't have to adjust the full 1400lbs, it has quite a bit of adjustment. I just learned the hard way when I originally had a smaller one then upgraded campers and had to buy a bigger one.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 08:03 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cpobst
I've used an Equalizer for 14 years. I'm not sure about the poster saying it's hard to hookup/unhook, it literally takes 60 seconds once it's initially set up. Great hitch and great support. And go with the 14k model.
It could be because the hitch was under rated for my tongue weight. But I had to lift up the rear of my truck 5 or 6 inches, then use the helper bar to help lift up the bars onto the L-brackets. I would even inflate my air bags to their max to help lift rear. They would snap on with a lot of force. I would need a pry bar and a hammer to remove the bars in many circumstances. I see videos of people just slightly lifting with the tongue jack, and pivoting the bars on by hand. That wasn't my experience. I did consider buy a bigger version. But was over the noise. Blue Ox has a few little quirks of its own, but most were eliminated by upgrading the wrench to a breaker bar. Best part is no pins or clips to store or keep track of.

I did recommend the equilizer to a friend who has a smaller suv and trailer setup. He has the 600lb setup, and hooks it up without issue, except for noise.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 08:06 PM
  #18  
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Here is something interesting from the propride group on facebookala.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 08:09 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Chris 86
It could be because the hitch was under rated for my tongue weight. But I had to lift up the rear of my truck 5 or 6 inches, then use the helper bar to help lift up the bars onto the L-brackets. I would even inflate my air bags to their max to help lift rear. They would snap on with a lot of force. I would need a pry bar and a hammer to remove the bars in many circumstances. I see videos of people just slightly lifting with the tongue jack, and pivoting the bars on by hand. That wasn't my experience. I did consider buy a bigger version. But was over the noise. Blue Ox has a few little quirks of its own, but most were eliminated by upgrading the wrench to a breaker bar. Best part is no pins or clips to store or keep track of.

I did recommend the equilizer to a friend who has a smaller suv and trailer setup. He has the 600lb setup, and hooks it up without issue, except for noise.
Im betting if it was that hard you had your brackets up fairly high to achieve the weight distribution you needed. Also you can get pads to fit on the brackets to eliminate the noise.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 08:11 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by cpobst
I've used an Equalizer for 14 years. I'm not sure about the poster saying it's hard to hookup/unhook, it literally takes 60 seconds once it's initially set up. Great hitch and great support. And go with the 14k model.
I've been using my equalizer for 5 years and it's very simple to hook up once you get it set up. Add more washers to tilt the head to increase weight transfer to the front axle. After you lock the coupler to the ball use your electric tongue jack and raise it up whatever you need to install the WD bars. Easy peasy. My dealer sold me a 600/6000 lb equalizer for my 6500 lb trailer and it wasn't enough. I later bought a 1000/10,000 and it's much better. Don't know if I would use a 14,000 LB One on a 7,000 lb trailer. Could very well be too stiff. I just upgraded from a 2010 f150 to my 22 F350 / 7.3 and I was able to remove two washers from the head assembly. I will no longer have trouble with payload capacity. 😁
 
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 08:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cpobst
I've used an Equalizer for 14 years. I'm not sure about the poster saying it's hard to hookup/unhook, it literally takes 60 seconds once it's initially set up. Great hitch and great support. And go with the 14k model.
They aren’t hard to hook up. Just to heavy for me to hump every tow after multiple back operations.

Bob
 
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 08:46 PM
  #22  
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The 1000 lb bars are 1-3/8" wide and the bars for the 1200 and 1400 lb models are 1-1/2" wide with only the head and shank being different. Tongue weight adds up fast on campers. Our 36' TT has around 1100lbs of tongue weight with only a 1/2 tank of water. That's verified on a CAT scale. I bet your ride won't be any different with a lower rated model and having them sprung super tight than with a heavier model and taking some washers out of the head and not having as much tension on them. I spoke to Equalizer when I got a higher rated model and they told me it wouldn't hurt anything going with a hitch rated for more than you need. You can adjust these things where they wouldn't have any tension at all on them if you wanted to.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2021 | 12:35 AM
  #23  
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I've been running WDH's for more than 3 decades. My least favorite by far was the Equalizer. I ran it for years. I found it to be inadequate for weight transfer. I had the 14K model and was running near its capacity. Those 1.5 inch bars barely flex. The problem I found was to get enough load on the bars was very difficult and once you did, ride and handling was jarring. I often wondered how much stress must be put on the a-frame of the trailer to flex two 1.5 inch square steel bars.

I switched to the blue ox, and have found weight transfer is easier to accomplish and the ride down the road is far better.

I didn't really care about the horrendous noise with the equalizer (even with the L bracket pads), but I certainly don't miss it.
 
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