I have a 2001 F250 XLT with the towing package.
First off how can I tell what CLASS Tow package I have?

Second what size hitch would I need to tow those 2 wheel U-haul trailers?
They sell different lengths so I am confused on that.
This 250 is stock height.

 

Look on the hitch receiver. It should tell you the max towing weight and tongue weight. Probably 5,000 towing and 500 tongue. Buy a good hitch and ball that meet or exceed the receiver max weights. Most utility trailers use 2" ball hitches.

With a stock F250, I don't think hitch height will be a problem. And I don't think there's a 2 wheel, single axle trailer too heavy for a F250 either...unless you put a 6,000lb payload in the trailer.

 

Thanks for the help.
I think someone spray bombed under coat on the hitch so doubt I can read it.

 

It should be a Class IV hitch with a 10000lb trailer weight limit and 1000lb tongue weight limit. I'll check the manual quick and get back to you.

EDIT: Found this in a few posts.

weight distributing- max gross trailer weight 10,000 lb, max tongue weight 1000 lb
weight carrying- max gross trailer weight 5000 lb, max tongue weight 500 lb

 

Firstly is the hitch stock? Most stock hitches are only rated for 8k lbs gross, 800 TW and 10k wd. I have seen a 10k stock on a 1 ton chevy, but 3/4 ton pickups usually don't go above the 8k mark from the factory (probably a liability issue.)

Aftermarket hitches have some leeway. Putnam makes a class V with the 2" receiver rated for about 15k. Typical class V has a 2.5" receiver. Class 3 and 4 both have a 2" receiver, but the primary difference between the receiver (ball mount) is class 4 is typically solid, weight a ton and are rated for 10-13k lbs. Class 3 are hollow tube and rated between 6k and 9k.

A single axle trailer without electric brakes should be under 10k. Once you get into trailer brakes, you will also notice that most of them have a 2 5/16" ball and 10k+. ***** are another weak spot, most 2" trailer ***** are only rated to 8k and have a 1", you will find 3/4" shaft 2" ***** but they are typically rated at 6k lbs. As you move up and over 10k lbs the shaft size will increase to 1 1/8" and beyond.

However a class 3 receiver with a 1" hole, a 2" ball with a 1" shaft will tow most loads fine.

 

Not quite true. My '07 F-250 came from the factory with a 12.5K hitch receiver.

 

Of the dozens I have worked on, I only came across the one 10k+ (class 5) stock hitch. I got that truck in because he had bent it. 49 of 50 still rings as most to me.

Is yours a 2" or 2.5" receiver? Putnam's XRP hitches are the only ones I have seen in 2" and 10k +.

 

i can't day for sure, but I think the 05+ SD trucks with a factory trailer hitch all got the 12.5K hitch.

It's a 2 inch receiver.

What drives me to drink is seeing guys use Class 3 III and IV hardware , then yank around 10-12k trailers.

 

The hitch that came on my 04' F-250SD from the Factory is rated at:

Ford Hitch #: V-5

WD Max Weight : 15,000lbs

WD Max Tongue : 1,5000lbs

Non-WD Max Weight : 6,000lbs

Non-WD Max Tongue Weight : 600lbs

The Non-WD #s seem screwy to me though.

I have a tandem axle utility trailer (6k GVW) and I use a 4" drop w/ a 2" ball and it stays level even loaded. I have 33" tires though but stock tires are 32".

 

We're all over the place. If Gmeanie's concern is whether he can safely tow a 2 wheel, single axle U-Haul trailer with a stock hitch receiver on a 2001 SuperDuty with the Tow Package, then I think the (very) safe answer is yes.

1. I don't think they ever installed a stock hitch receiver on any SuperDuty from '99 on that didn't have at least a minimum rating of 500lbs tongue and 5000lbs towing. Would make it a RegularDuty otherwise, wouldn't it?
2. Make sure the hitch and ball are rated at equal or greater weights than the receiver.
3. Just because it has the round seven pin plug doesn't mean you can operate electric trailer brakes. The lights might work, but it won't enage electric trailer brakes without a controller installed. (never seen a single axle trailer with electric brakes, just a FYI).
4. Even a SuperDuty takes 2-3 times more stopping distance with a trailer. Don't brake too late.

 

My 2001 FROM THE FACTORY came with a hitch with 5K towing/500lbs tongue weight, 10K weight-distributing/1000lbs tongue weight.

 

I rented a two axel U haul last summer and it had the hydraulic brake on the tongue.

As you brake the truck, the trailer tongue brake applies the trailer brake.

So no electric brake is required.

 

On the hydraulic brake you need to tap the reverse lights, otherwise the brakes would lock up every time you tried to backup. If it doesn't have a 7 wire plug that type of braking system will have a flat 5 wire plug. Flat 5 is just like the flat 4 with a reverse wire.

 

Those are "surge" brakes - there should be a lockout for when you backup - some kind of pin to put in somewhere, or something like that.

 

surge brakes suck