4x4 gearing question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
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4x4 gearing question
I have a 99 f250 5.4 that I 4x4 swapped. The gearing in both axles are 3.73 and I'm needing to regear them. That's where my question comes in, can I just regear the rear and only use 4x4 when trying to get out or will it mess something up like the transfer case?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,133
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If you plan to ever use the 4x4 again, you need to regear both. Period. End of Story.
If you DON'T plan to use 4x4 ever again and/or have manual lockouts with 'Free' and 'Lock', then you could regear the rear for a time - but DO NOT use 4WD during this time or you will most likely break stuff, even if you're on soft ground. If it's a money issue then just be patient and save up to do both at once - it'll likely be a bit cheaper since you'll be purchasing all your parts at the same time and if you're having a shop do the work they may give you a break on labor too. If you do them separate you probably won't get that break.
Since you say you swapped it to be 4WD instead of 2WD I am guessing you fall into the former category.
If you DON'T plan to use 4x4 ever again and/or have manual lockouts with 'Free' and 'Lock', then you could regear the rear for a time - but DO NOT use 4WD during this time or you will most likely break stuff, even if you're on soft ground. If it's a money issue then just be patient and save up to do both at once - it'll likely be a bit cheaper since you'll be purchasing all your parts at the same time and if you're having a shop do the work they may give you a break on labor too. If you do them separate you probably won't get that break.
Since you say you swapped it to be 4WD instead of 2WD I am guessing you fall into the former category.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 661
Likes: 186
From: Lakeland, MN
Going to do this here in a few weeks. I went to 4.10's to match better with my 35's and it gives me more grunt in the winter on the 32ish tires I run in the winter. I should of paid WAYYYYY more attention when I put my front axle in but I took it on word that it was a 3.73, it was a 3.55. It worked fine in the slippery snow at slow speed on my driveway, but I drove it out on the road once to turn around and found out in a big hurry that the front gears were different. I didn't break anything but it bucked twice and I rammed that handle forward and it went smooth as silk.
Front gears I got a dana setup, 2007118 this I didn't look close enough at, but for 239 it was good deal for everything but the carrier bearings, went back and added about 40 for those with races (387A is the bearing, 382A is the race). I also got the inner shaft seals, the ones you need to remove the carrier to get to, (dana 2019816 18 each). I then ordered a UCF superduty DIY diff cover for 90.
Rear gears I ordered Motive Gears in 4.10 for the 10.25 long shaft (F10.25-410L 236) and the Motive "master" install kit needed to put 10.25's in the 10.5 (R10.25RT 177) from Advance Auto and stacked discounts and perks coupons to get down to 357 to my door. When that arrived I realized there were no carrier shims, back to rockauto for the super carrier shim kit (USA55004 28) the pinion shim kit (USA55013 10) and an extra crush sleeve for the 10.5 (USA33085 4). of course I had to order up a UCF 10.5 dif cover for another 90. Buy something else from them if you do this, I tossed 22 for shipping and went over 200, where I could of gotten something dumb for near free if it pushed me over the 200 for free shipping. They wouldn't hear of it when I realized my mistake and called them wanting to add merch or something to gain the free ship.
So like many projects I never add up the spend, since I don't want to know the real number or I'd get sick, but pretty sure I'm under 800 for a complete regear, all new components in the difs, and some stupid strong dif covers.
Front gears I got a dana setup, 2007118 this I didn't look close enough at, but for 239 it was good deal for everything but the carrier bearings, went back and added about 40 for those with races (387A is the bearing, 382A is the race). I also got the inner shaft seals, the ones you need to remove the carrier to get to, (dana 2019816 18 each). I then ordered a UCF superduty DIY diff cover for 90.
Rear gears I ordered Motive Gears in 4.10 for the 10.25 long shaft (F10.25-410L 236) and the Motive "master" install kit needed to put 10.25's in the 10.5 (R10.25RT 177) from Advance Auto and stacked discounts and perks coupons to get down to 357 to my door. When that arrived I realized there were no carrier shims, back to rockauto for the super carrier shim kit (USA55004 28) the pinion shim kit (USA55013 10) and an extra crush sleeve for the 10.5 (USA33085 4). of course I had to order up a UCF 10.5 dif cover for another 90. Buy something else from them if you do this, I tossed 22 for shipping and went over 200, where I could of gotten something dumb for near free if it pushed me over the 200 for free shipping. They wouldn't hear of it when I realized my mistake and called them wanting to add merch or something to gain the free ship.
So like many projects I never add up the spend, since I don't want to know the real number or I'd get sick, but pretty sure I'm under 800 for a complete regear, all new components in the difs, and some stupid strong dif covers.
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