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Building my 400 from scratch

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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 05:34 PM
  #16  
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Not yet, waiting for the pistons
 
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 08:13 PM
  #17  
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I waited awhile for my Pistons from TM as well, careful matching those springs with the cam etc. I think the 3rd cam I put in has finally survived break-in
 
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 08:32 AM
  #18  
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Yup, I dropped off my springs with the machine shop last week and they will check to see if they will work with my cam. Those springs are out of a roller cam kit with a .519 lift. I hope that they do not have too much seat pressure since the roller cam had more aggressive ramps. Now is the time for any corrections to my spring choice. If need be I will get the proper springs.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 08:21 AM
  #19  
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Have the machine shop install bronze valve guides and hardened seats in your heads if you use them
I would go at least 10:1 pistons and find some decent headers
That said
You have very few parts options when building a 400 Ford (I built one and had it in a 69 Mustang for a while)(back in the 80's)
I would like to see you up the compression They only had about 160hp even in 1971 (I had a '71LTD in high school) 1978
That said they are good motors and have decent torque
I advise you to find some decent closed chamber 351C heads for it (I have closed chamber boss 351 heads on a 302 in a 69 mustang)(a home built boss 302 motor)
You go guy
 
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Old Feb 8, 2022 | 05:23 PM
  #20  
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New Pistons in the House!!

Good news, my pistons have arrived and I dropped them off to the machine shop. Pretty spiffy!




 
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Old Feb 25, 2022 | 05:43 AM
  #21  
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I contacted the machine shop today and they stated next week it will be ready to pick up. I will assemble the engine in the coming weeks. I will post pics of the engine when I pick it up from the machine shop.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2022 | 06:26 AM
  #22  
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400 build update.. The machine shop is super busy and have not completed the work as of yet. However they have the bores finish honed and pistons fitted.
The to do list...
1. Press fit the pistons to the rods and install ARP rod bolts
2. Get a new flex plate and balancer
3. Balance the rotating assembly
4. Install cam bearings
5. Set up cyl heads with new springs for cam. They are the early 2V open chamber D1AE
Hopefully I will be able to pick up the engine in the next 2 weeks.



 
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Old Mar 24, 2022 | 04:36 AM
  #23  
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Unless your rods were messed up and need resized you don't need the ARP bolts all you need is some new ARP nuts for the rod bolts. The bolts are plenty strong the weak link is the stock nuts. You can save yourself some money and be just as strong not having them resized. If you install new bolts, they will have to be resized.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2022 | 06:39 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Crop Duster
Unless your rods were messed up and need resized you don't need the ARP bolts all you need is some new ARP nuts for the rod bolts. The bolts are plenty strong the weak link is the stock nuts. You can save yourself some money and be just as strong not having them resized. If you install new bolts, they will have to be resized.
Thanks for the advice Crop Duster, since I am building from scratch they are supplying the rods and they are probably from a different engine. So I will get in touch with the machine shop today.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2022 | 09:37 PM
  #25  
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My machinist had to take a lot of weight out of the crank and flexplate as apparently the TMeyer pistons are a fair amount lighter than the stock cast pistons.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 07:05 AM
  #26  
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Hello friends, interesting update that 400M cranks are a rare item as I know of an low mileage 400M sitting in an Ford LTD that still runs.
Anyway, I have an set of NOS Cleveland 2V head 'bare' castings, still in the Ford factory packaging.
I wonder if Dave MacLean or someone might be able to offer any info on them (Intake / exhaust port configuration & thermactor bump issue, etc) and whether they are suitable as candidates for any sort of engine build? I purchased them years ago for use in an "Clevor 302" build I planned back in the day.
The 2V Cleveland heads casting numbers are: "D4AE-AA" dated '3C11' on one head and "D4AE-AA" dated '3H1'.
I am not intending to 'hi-jack' this post but rather curious how the "D4" heads I have compare to the "D5" or "D1" heads you mention and are using???
Or, are my heads just a suitable 'door-stop' as some folks have mentioned when referring to the open chamber 2V cleveland heads generally-speaking???
Many thanks in advance - Pete

Oh, by the way, has your engine been assembled and is there any photo's and details to update in this post?
Thank again, good luck on this build - Pete
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 09:12 AM
  #27  
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I think that they would work just fine for a typical 400 build to use in a truck on the street. I don't think that any thermactor bump or differences around the exhaust port guide would really make much of a difference in performance. I wonder if there's a way to tell if your heads have induction hardened exhaust seats or not. A hard seat is mandatory if you're planning on working the engine hard on unleaded fuel.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 12:39 PM
  #28  
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I believe NumberDummy said Ford started induction hardening all their exhaust seats in 1972.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 12:58 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Crop Duster
I believe NumberDummy said Ford started induction hardening all their exhaust seats in 1972.
I know that's not correct at least in the trucks and in the parts that I've seen from original engines. If it doesn't say "unleaded fuel only" it probably doesn't have an induction hardened seat.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 01:35 PM
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Just going by what ND said since he was a Ford parts guy his whole life and the parts guru on all these forums for years until he decided to back off. Although he does still show up every now and then. I do know all the D3ZE's were induction hardened and I'll take Bill's word for it above anyone else on here.
 
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