Hydraulic Clutch Question
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
Hydraulic Clutch Question
I just got a 1985 F-150 with a 3 speed plus OD manual tranny. My question is that when I take my foot off the clutch, it's in gear about an inch and a half up. Most clutches I have used have at least a little play in them. Is there a reason why it is like this? Shouldn't there be a little more room before it is fully in gear? So, it's kinda hard to move around slower and I keep stalling it. 
I guess I will probably ride the clutch a little less! Thanks for any info.
-Matt
I guess I will probably ride the clutch a little less! Thanks for any info.-Matt
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Alaska
You might check your oil resevoir and make sure it's topped off. You may have a little air in the line going to the slave cylinder. These buggers can be a pain to bleed out too. I had a leak in mine and if i didn't keep a close eye on it I would push the clutch pedal in and it would not disengage the clutch. I did this once on a trip with my camper on. I was heading south to do some fishing and came into Big Lake, north of Wasilla, and came up to a stop light. I pushed the clutch pedal in and it wouldn't disengage, I had to hit the brake and kill it before a smacked the rig in front of me. I put it in first and tried to start it in gear when the light turned but there was a slight uphill grade and with the extra weight on my truck the starter wouldn't quite do it. I waited until everyone went around me and rolled back to a flat spot and then I was able to get it started. Needless to say I stopped at the first station and got some brake fluid as the bottle I had in the truck was empty of course. Well hope this helps
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Muskegon, MI (home)
Another problem that has been pretty common on the 80-86 F-series trucks is the mounting area on the firewall for the clutch master cylinder. It has a little flex it, mine had flexed so much that the sheetmetal had become fatigued and tore loose. I had the exact symptoms as you are experiencing until the mounting area gave way and the clutch pedal went to the floor. I had to drive home and shift without the clutch. I didn't discover the problem until after it broke. To repair it I cut a piece of 1/8th inch steel plate and drilled the holes to match the mounting studs on the master cyl., then bolted it up onthe back side of the firewall to reenforce the area...problem solved! Hope this helps!
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if you replace both you will then have to bleed it somehow because fluid doesn't come in them when you buy them. I just replaced the leaking hose on mine. there is a little allen head screw in be the hose on the slave cylinder.....you unscrew it just like when you bleed the brakes....it is a pain in the **** to get the air out though...goodluck 
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2002
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I have a 85 f150 4.9 3spd OD with the exact same problem.
I had the clutch and pressure plate changed a couple of
years ago but did not make much of a difference.
I'll have to check to see if its the firewall flexes at all.
I had the clutch and pressure plate changed a couple of
years ago but did not make much of a difference.
I'll have to check to see if its the firewall flexes at all.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Memphis, TN
Any time you mess with the clutch on those trucks, you're supposed to change the bellcrank on the R end of the clutch pedal shaft under the dash. The reason is that the shaft cuts splines into the bellcrank, which sets it for proper freeplay. If you change the fork, throwout, pressure plate, clutch, or flywheel, you have to replace the bellcrank to allow for the changes. The good news is that it's cheap (under $20) and pretty easy to install.
For more info, click my signature and look in the Hydraulic Clutch photo album.
For more info, click my signature and look in the Hydraulic Clutch photo album.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Sarnia, Ontario, CANADA!
Originally posted by steve83
Any time you mess with the clutch on those trucks, you're supposed to change the bellcrank on the R end of the clutch pedal shaft under the dash. The reason is that the shaft cuts splines into the bellcrank, which sets it for proper freeplay. If you change the fork, throwout, pressure plate, clutch, or flywheel, you have to replace the bellcrank to allow for the changes. The good news is that it's cheap (under $20) and pretty easy to install.
For more info, click my signature and look in the Hydraulic Clutch photo album.
Any time you mess with the clutch on those trucks, you're supposed to change the bellcrank on the R end of the clutch pedal shaft under the dash. The reason is that the shaft cuts splines into the bellcrank, which sets it for proper freeplay. If you change the fork, throwout, pressure plate, clutch, or flywheel, you have to replace the bellcrank to allow for the changes. The good news is that it's cheap (under $20) and pretty easy to install.
For more info, click my signature and look in the Hydraulic Clutch photo album.
-Matt
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 126
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From: Alaska
I had forgot about the firewall flexing. I can't remember exactly where but there is a kit to reinforce the firewall. I believe it was aftermarket, possibly Carquest, Napa, or Schucks. Even if that's not the problem it is a good thing to check out.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,441
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From: Muskegon, MI (home)
For those who don't like to make their own parts...there is hope. Ford does have a repair kit available for the flexy firewall problem. I am not sure if you can get it at a parts store or have to order it from the dealership.
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: right hand of the father
Beast12- it sounds like your master cylinder is going bad. I had the same problem with my '85 f150. I replaced the master cylinder, and the system was a real bittch to bleed, but it's worked fine for about 3 1/2 years now. The master cylinder wasn't easy to find- every place I called wanted to sell me a pre-bled assembly to the tune of $160. I ended up finding just a master cylinder at Checker auto parts for $80, and it came with NO WARRANTY whatsoever... presumably because these systems are so difficult to bleed. I bled it quite a lot, and got it so that the clutch felt OK, but still had a bit of air in it. I gave up after an hour or so and just drove it that way, and the air eventually worked itself out.
New User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: right hand of the father
Just out of curiosity, folks... why exactly do you need to replace the bell-crank? To set the travel on the master cylinder, you basically lengthen the link that pushes in on the cylinder until there's no free travel, then back it off maybe 1/2 turn. Why would you mess with the bell-crank?