Bump Steer help
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Hotshot
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I’m going to stick by my thought that your geometry is off which is causing the bump steer.
My ‘87 Bronco has a Superlift 6” lift with 35” tires and Superunner steering. No steering stabilizer needed. The ‘89 F-150 with HD coil springs needed pivot and radius arm drop brackets to get back in alignment specs but also has no need for a steering stabilizer.
My ‘87 Bronco has a Superlift 6” lift with 35” tires and Superunner steering. No steering stabilizer needed. The ‘89 F-150 with HD coil springs needed pivot and radius arm drop brackets to get back in alignment specs but also has no need for a steering stabilizer.
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New User
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I’m going to stick by my thought that your geometry is off which is causing the bump steer.
My ‘87 Bronco has a Superlift 6” lift with 35” tires and Superunner steering. No steering stabilizer needed. The ‘89 F-150 with HD coil springs needed pivot and radius arm drop brackets to get back in alignment specs but also has no need for a steering stabilizer.
My ‘87 Bronco has a Superlift 6” lift with 35” tires and Superunner steering. No steering stabilizer needed. The ‘89 F-150 with HD coil springs needed pivot and radius arm drop brackets to get back in alignment specs but also has no need for a steering stabilizer.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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Dana 44 TTB. The Dana 50 TTB was never offered in a 1/2T truck. I would think a leaf spring axle would have less problems with bump steer since the springs locate the axle. My CJ doesn’t use a track bar. I have driven it with and without a stabilizer and it doesn’t have bump steer problems.
Lead Driver
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Dana 44 TTB. The Dana 50 TTB was never offered in a 1/2T truck. I would think a leaf spring axle would have less problems with bump steer since the springs locate the axle. My CJ doesn’t use a track bar. I have driven it with and without a stabilizer and it doesn’t have bump steer problems.
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i think your spring is toast but it’s not that your truck is too heavy I think the front sprung weight is too high and your rear suspension probably doesn’t have much travel (guessing) and it’s a long af truck. It’s pinning down the front suspension which has less dampening and spring by a long shot I think. Basically it’s like a rocker arm being pushed by a pushrod. The tip pushing down the valve is your front end, the valve is your suspension in front. Poor analogy. Anyway. Your rear is just pushing the front spring ends down while your heavy axle pops up ajd your leaf which is weak sauce is just not able to hold those opposing things. I would think a thicker leaf would be helpful. So it can handle the front heavy diff and the big big tires and the wide stance etc. That’s a lot of weight. And your truck has the extenuanting things putting more force.
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how do you plan to use your truck? If you don’t tow and don’t exceed 2k in bed your springs should really reflect that.
if you do need the capacity, what are the rear ones rated for? And then also, you for sure need new ones. Having a stiffer, thicker, probably is easy yes but you may have a long one or perhaps it was meant to be the other way, proper direction is important. In that case it would prob get basically wrecked by the trucks weight once the spring was at a weak point. The ones on my truck may have been upward facing. That’s how bad it can be from weight. (No proof but it looks like it maybe)sitging level, are your shocks fully extended, bottomed, close, etc
if you do need the capacity, what are the rear ones rated for? And then also, you for sure need new ones. Having a stiffer, thicker, probably is easy yes but you may have a long one or perhaps it was meant to be the other way, proper direction is important. In that case it would prob get basically wrecked by the trucks weight once the spring was at a weak point. The ones on my truck may have been upward facing. That’s how bad it can be from weight. (No proof but it looks like it maybe)sitging level, are your shocks fully extended, bottomed, close, etc
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The truck is just used for the road. I don’t tow and I don’t use the bed. Almost positive the leafs are facing the correct way, the front hanger hole size lined up with the front leaf spring bushing size and same with the rear of the leafs
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From: Berkeley Springs Wv
I do agree with needing a longer track-bar but also know that there is little room under these trucks to install one without some fab work, regardless I highly doubt that is the issue as long as your bump steer isn't only happening when you completely unload the front leafs. Have you checked to see what your camber degree is?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,483
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The number one reason for bump steer is the track bar and tierod are not equal.
Try this. Unlock the steering wheel and then pull up and push down on the bumper while watching the steering wheel. Does it move left and right or does it stay still and the truck moves slightly left or right?
Try this. Unlock the steering wheel and then pull up and push down on the bumper while watching the steering wheel. Does it move left and right or does it stay still and the truck moves slightly left or right?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,483
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It needs a longer bar. Do you have any buddies that weld and fab? I dont of any companies that sell them but I've built a few any it really helps. I go from the frame side up by the steering box down to the top of the leaf spring plate that the ubolts go through.