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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 02:39 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Conanski
No that is not true at all, a 1/2 ton of this vintage has a much smaller frame and axles but the body work was all the same for all versions except for some minor details with floor pans and the firewall. The OPs truck has had a 1/2 ton body swapped onto a HD F250 or F350 rolling chassis, that means the VIN isn't correct and in some districts that makes this an illegal vehicle. The official towing capacity of a HD pickup of this vintage is based on the powertrain combo and ready to tow curb weight of the truck, for a 351/auto/4.10 gears combo the GCWR was a max 13k. If this truck weighs 5.5k with a driver and tank of fuel that leaves 7.5k for the trailer for example, that may sound really low but the engines and brakes in these old trucks were pretty weak compared to modern trucks.
So it's safe to assume i shouldn't put a trailer over 10k behind my truck (i know you said 7500 but factoring a little wiggle room, trailer layout, and driving style i figure i can probably tow 10 without breaking anything (10 on a GN only)).
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 03:29 PM
  #17  
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From: Chaz
I think he said 7,500.


I would make sure the brakes on both the truck and trailer is good.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 03:36 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Joe T
I think he said 7,500.


I would make sure the brakes on both the truck and trailer is good.
Yes he did say 7500 but manufacturers always leave room when setting gvws and of course my trailer has brakes. It has 20k dexters under it and it has a gvw of 26k (fully loaded i would not be pulling it with this truck it would be behind my f600). Ive had over 10k on it and it handles it well but i don't push it past 70 when its that heavy loaded.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 07:00 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Doc. Dewey
Yes he did say 7500 but manufacturers always leave room when setting gvws and of course
Law enforcement and insurance companies won't agree with you on that... and this is a 40yr old truck now so it really should be derated to account for wear and tear and corrosion. To avoid attracting more attention than necessary I'd suggest you find a set of F350 fender badges for it.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 07:11 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Law enforcement and insurance companies won't agree with you on that... and this is a 40yr old truck now so it really should be derated to account for wear and tear and corrosion. To avoid attracting more attention than necessary I'd suggest you find a set of F350 fender badges for it.
You are absolutely right but out here in Wyoming everybody just looks at the offending vehicle and thinks "what a f*****g r****d" and then they go on about their day. I have toyed with the idea of putting f250 badges on it but i kinda like that the VIN matches the badges (even though they don't match the frame). The badges sometimes bring questions from those astute enough to pick up on the discrepancy.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 07:48 PM
  #21  
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I didn't look at what an F250 of your truck's age and drive train is rated though I will say somewhere in the 7,000 to 8,000 range is about what your drive train is capable of maintaining interstate speeds. And some hills will bog you down to the 40's or 50's mph depending on your frontal area (i.e. wind drag).

As mentioned, you'll want to honestly assess your truck's suspension, brakes, and frame.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 07:52 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by '65Ford
I didn't look at what an F250 of your truck's age and drive train is rated though I will say somewhere in the 7,000 to 8,000 range is about what your drive train is capable of maintaining interstate speeds. And some hills will bog you down to the 40's or 50's mph depending on your frontal area (i.e. wind drag).

As mentioned, you'll want to honestly assess your truck's suspension, brakes, and frame.
I do have some hills (6%) where I live. The frame is rock solid same with the suspension. I did just put new pads, rotors, and wheel bearings on it.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 08:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Doc. Dewey
I do have some hills (6%) where I live. The frame is rock solid same with the suspension. I did just put new pads, rotors, and wheel bearings on it.
The good thing about these somewhat older trucks is that their relatively lower power keeps them safe. Earlier engines are not in jeopardy of hurting the rest of the truck and the driver does not become over confident. Today's truck are so powerful that they can get you into trouble by pulling so effortlessly that the driver gets a false sense of security.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2021 | 08:57 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by '65Ford
The good thing about these somewhat older trucks is that their relatively lower power keeps them safe. Earlier engines are not in jeopardy of hurting the rest of the truck and the driver does not become over confident. Today's truck are so powerful that they can get you into trouble by pulling so effortlessly that the driver gets a false sense of security.
True. I run out of pulling power long before I run out of stopping power or component strength. That's one of the reasons i run the older stuff with a real frame not the thin boxed crap they got today. I don't worry about splitting the truck in half pulling a trailer
 
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