When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had a whooshing noise coming from the intake for a bit, I brought it to the dealer to get reprogrammed and it went away. I can't see what would have caused the whooshing noise. I thought I had a valve sticking open but that couldn't have been the case I don't think. I pulled the head last night and found that the cam is completely wiped out. I am already this far into it and the motor has 385k on it so I am just going to drop a junk yard cam, lifters, lifter retainers, pushrods and rocker arm assemblies in it. I know it is not the right thing to do and everybody behind their computer that has a truck to drive to work everyday will tell me that I should pull the motor and send it out to get rebuilt and whatever whatever. I don't have the funds or the time for that.
In the spirit of keeping this up to date., I bought a junkyard motor out of a 2015 with 30k on it for $500 from my local wrecking yard. This truck had rearended a backhoe and caved in the timing cover, stuffed the engine and trans backwards into the cab breaking the transmission in half and shearing the motor mounts right off. After they pulled the cab it became obvious that the firewall on these trucks is pretty flimsy and had hardly damaged the back of the engine at all when it got stuffed through it. I am going to use the heads, lifters, pushrods and rocker arms from this junkyard motor. I bought a new cam from Ford since the junkyard one likely got tweaked in the crash. I plan to swap my factory turbo with the 15 turbo and use most of the up pipes and manifolds and stuff that I need from it. The downpipe got bent and the up pipe on the drivers side is also bent. The lower intake is also bust so I will need that as well. hard to complain for $500 though.
Mind if I ask what version of forscan you used to edit the iqa when you did new injector? I changed injector on a 14 6.7. I bought forscan pro app and have mx link adapter, all I can seem to do is see diagnostic info. I can't see a way to to cylinder balance or anything. I probably have the wrong app, or perhaps need to be using a laptop?
sorry you are having to go through so much with your truck. That's a lot of work tearing these things down like you have. I don't find this 14 f250 to be any fun to work on under the hood. I never liked working on the old 7.3's and they are a piece of cake compared to this. 😆 Good luck with yours, sounds like you have a solid plan to get it back on the road!
I rebuilt a 6.7 engine last spring to put into my truck. The donor engine had the same issue but on #2. All the lobes for #2 were smoked causing the pushrods to all bend, rockers were all sorts messed up.
From what I could tell there was excessive carbon build-up on the intake causing one of the intake valves to float/get stuck. There was over 1/8" of carbon on some of the valves stems. The root cause was likely either something faulty in the EGR system or a dirty tune with intact emissions.
I suspect with your milage (meter-age?? lol) it will be similar.
Make sure you find all the rocker pieces and replace your oil cooler as there is no way to flush it clean. I had the little spring pieces all over the oil pan and was missing one of the ball bearings that the arm pivots on.
Mind if I ask what version of forscan you used to edit the iqa when you did new injector? I changed injector on a 14 6.7. I bought forscan pro app and have mx link adapter, all I can seem to do is see diagnostic info. I can't see a way to to cylinder balance or anything. I probably have the wrong app, or perhaps need to be using a laptop?
I have Forscan on the PC and a wired OBDLink EX. It was fairly simple. I believe it was under "Injector calibration" or something.
From what I could tell there was excessive carbon build-up on the intake causing one of the intake valves to float/get stuck. There was over 1/8" of carbon on some of the valves stems. The root cause was likely either something faulty in the EGR system or a dirty tune with intact emissions.
My heads don't look too bad to be honest, the rocker arms that were causing trouble wore some of the webs down and one of the valve spring retainers. A Ford mechanic friend of mine thinks that I probably have a sticky valve which is what caused the wear. I am unsure since all of the long rocker arms were sliding off of the valves with two already completely off. The drivers side was not near as bad which I attribute to the lack of fueling on the exhaust stroke for the DPF. maybe that extra heat causes the oil in the head to just be that little bit thinner or what.
I do plan to use the heads and all of the valvetrain from my wrecker engine with 30k on it. When it is all back together I am going to pull the oil pan and clean it all up. I didn't know that about the oil cooler so I appreciate that. Hopefully it survived the crash on the wrecker motor. One sad piece of news is that the new style Turbo on my wrecker motor was spinning full bore when it got creamed and ingested a bunch of bits of glass and intake chunks before sitting out in the rain and seizing up so it is junk.
Thanks for the forscan info. I'm setting up my laptop with it. I misunderstood a few things I read about it and thought I could do what I wanted with an app on my phone.
I have Forscan on the PC and a wired OBDLink EX. It was fairly simple. I believe it was under "Injector calibration" or something.
My heads don't look too bad to be honest, the rocker arms that were causing trouble wore some of the webs down and one of the valve spring retainers. A Ford mechanic friend of mine thinks that I probably have a sticky valve which is what caused the wear. I am unsure since all of the long rocker arms were sliding off of the valves with two already completely off. The drivers side was not near as bad which I attribute to the lack of fueling on the exhaust stroke for the DPF. maybe that extra heat causes the oil in the head to just be that little bit thinner or what.
I do plan to use the heads and all of the valvetrain from my wrecker engine with 30k on it. When it is all back together I am going to pull the oil pan and clean it all up. I didn't know that about the oil cooler so I appreciate that. Hopefully it survived the crash on the wrecker motor. One sad piece of news is that the new style Turbo on my wrecker motor was spinning full bore when it got creamed and ingested a bunch of bits of glass and intake chunks before sitting out in the rain and seizing up so it is junk.
Do you have the valves out of the heads yet? On the valve stem where the carbon build-up matters causing a sticky valve. The valve guide to stem clearance is 0.003" so it doesn't take much to cause problems. As your valve springs age, they become weaker, with the addition of carbon build-up, at a certain point they can't keep the valves "tight" against the rockers causing excessive wear. Rockers can fall off if the valve sticks open or many other bad things occur.
I would rather be safe and just buy a new oil cooler. I know its not cheap but if there is debris in the donor engine cooler it could wreck your engine or it coolant system.
After waiting for parts I finally got my rig back together. the donor motor was not much use. The cam gear is still seated in the crank gear but I think it must have sheared off because cylinders 4,5 and 8 I believe it was had the intake valves beat by the pistons. 6 banana pushrods and 3 stretched rocker bridge hold down bolts. Upon closer inspection every single pushrod in this engine had a slight, slight bend in it. I think the impact must have been enough that momentum bent them. A few of the cylinders had seen some serious water and a lot of the lifters appeared to have small rust spots. I took careful note and used a few of the good lifters out of this engine and the rocker assemblies and basically nothing else. I didn't end up using the heads for fear of them being cracked from the impact as the block looked to have some cracks in it. I basically reassembled my engine with 90% of it's original parts and a new cam. So far it is running like a top. The junkyard motor had a number of the parts needed for a 2015 turbo swap so that is going to be in the eventual future. I'm going to drive the snot out of this thing for awhile and let it become a reliable rig again.
The initial test drive showed a major oil leak coming from the front main seal. I decided to drive it the 35 minutes back to my house from the father in laws shop and in that time it coated the entire underside of the truck front to back in Rotella T, The diagnoses showed that I had cut the outside of the seal on a sharp edge of the housing when installing. After getting it out and sanding the housing a touch it all went back together nicely .After getting the old girl back together she immediately got put to work doing all the things that it was supposed to be doing this fall. 700km of hard work shows no issues. Shes as strong as ever.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
