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We just changed the power steering pump on our truck. We used a power steering pulley puller/installer kit from Harbor Freight for about $20. We didn't do the 42-step bleed procedure posted elsewhere in this thread either. Just filled it up, started it up, and turned it stop to stop about 10 times. It's no longer making noise, or belching fluid everywhere. The steering is totally 100% as suicidal and horrible as it was before the new pump. Everyone tells me it's normal for an old Ford to feel like you're going to die anytime you go faster than 30 mph, and if so, this truck is performing perfectly!
If your pulley is still all out of whack, I have a lathe, and I could probably fix it so it runs closer to true.
We just changed the power steering pump on our truck. We used a power steering pulley puller/installer kit from Harbor Freight for about $20. We didn't do the 42-step bleed procedure posted elsewhere in this thread either. Just filled it up, started it up, and turned it stop to stop about 10 times. It's no longer making noise, or belching fluid everywhere. The steering is totally 100% as suicidal and horrible as it was before the new pump. Everyone tells me it's normal for an old Ford to feel like you're going to die anytime you go faster than 30 mph, and if so, this truck is performing perfectly!
If your pulley is still all out of whack, I have a lathe, and I could probably fix it so it runs closer to true.
i agree, the steering is totally suicidal. i wonder how to improve it ?
i agree, the steering is totally suicidal. i wonder how to improve it ?
Have you inspected the steering shaft? 2wd/4wd F150 has a flex (rag) joint in the steering shaft connection that gets old and or oil soaked and falls apart. F250 4wd steering shaft has a u joint that is VERY hard to locate a replacement and or replace. So most folks get a Borgeson steering shaft. https://www.borgeson.com/Ford-Truck-1970-14/
So once you in insp the steering shaft and determine all is good there (along with insp all the other steering linkage parts like tie rod ends ect...) and determine the play is in the worn out steering box, just Google:
It’s all new parts I put in it : new rag join,steering gear(not a redhead I’m afraid. It’s one from rock auto ), pump, tie rod end. Despite all of that, the driving is still « strange »
i will keep digging into it, but I’m a little bit disappointed.
X2 ck wheel bearings. Ball joints, any and all steering that has a connection point insp it. Radius arm to frame bushings good? Steering column splines (both ends), steering box to frame point? No cracks or loose hdwr? Pitman arm to steering box output splines, no slippage? Tires air pressure, and tire condition? Front end alignment?
I have heard nothing but horror stories about local parts house/reman steering boxes. Just a fresh set of seals, paint and in the box. No internal insp/adjustment/replacement/overhaul or machine work at all. Now I could be wrong, but it you do not have 100% steering input shaft movement match 100% steering box output shaft movement something is wrong or worn out.
I would get a helper (with the truck NOT running) turn the steering back and forth (a quick them slow bump back and forth, not lock to lock) and look for slack/play. Then same with the truck running lock to lock. I request a better/more detailed description of "driving still <<strange>>".
Does it seem to float or wonders going down the road? hunts the low spots or (dip troughs) in the road? A dip trough is where most cars drive in the middle of the lane and that area, on older roads become settled, and sometimes even has standing water.
I understand that road holding depends on a whole kinematic chain, and that everything must be checked.
what surprises me for example is the quality of the new ragjoint which seems to me much more flexible than the old one.
I also have doubts about the quality of the power steering box that I bought
Toe in/out, caster, camber....tires type, condition, are the wheels true (straight, not bent)? Something has to be off/worn/out of adjustment. And easy way to check if the front tires/wheels are causing this, is to swap front for rears and take it for a spin.
As far as a quality rag joint, did you get the cheapest from the parts house or an OEM replacement from a quality vendor?
It does away with the flex or rag joint connection and changes it to a splined solid u joint. But you still need the ability to have some movement, so a slide style steering shaft is added. Also by adding the slide style, you can still account for frame/body flex and that way you have some give (compressibility) in the steering shaft/steering column in case of a front end collision. Make sense?
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