Brake Lights Not Working
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 12
Likes: 9
Brake Lights Not Working
Hello- looking for advice. I have a 67 F250. This morning my brake lights were working perfectly. This afternoon I changed a turn signal bulb at the front and changed the dome light bulb. Then I realized my brake lights not working. The tail lights still come on if I turn on the headlights, but no lights when I press the brake pedal. I tried changing out all my fuses but still not working. What should I check? I’m a novice so appreciate any help or advice.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,253
Likes: 345
Do your turn signal lights all work? Brake lights work through your turn signal switch in the steering column. Also, there is a brake light switch down at your brake pedal. When you push the pedal, it pushes the button on the switch.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 12
Likes: 9
Yes all turn signals are working. I’ll try to find the brake light switch.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 4
I just had a very similar problem. Adjusting the brake light switch fixed it. It is on the brake pedal under the dash. Screw the adjuster in to increase the amount of brake pedal movement to activate the brake lights, and screwing it out will decrease it. I had to replace my brake light switch last year (1968 F 250). They are over 50 years old now! It went out of adjustment recently, and I made that fix last week. Disconnect the wire leads from the switch, and put a test light or voltmeter across the brake light switch wires to see if there is current there. Place the leads of a powered test light, or an ohmmeter across the switch terminals and see what happens when you work the switch. That will let you know if the switch is bad, or if it isn't getting power from the battery. NAPA has the switches available, and I think they are about $12. The hardest part of the job is getting under there! There are of course other possible conditions causing your problem, but a bad or misadjusted switch is definitely something to check sooner rather than later. Good luck, and I hope this helps you
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 12
Likes: 9
Thank you for the detailed description. I was able to use a multimeter to determine that the brake switch was the problem. And you are right - getting under there was the worst part. I replaced the switch and all seems to be working well now!
I just had a very similar problem. Adjusting the brake light switch fixed it. It is on the brake pedal under the dash. Screw the adjuster in to increase the amount of brake pedal movement to activate the brake lights, and screwing it out will decrease it. I had to replace my brake light switch last year (1968 F 250). They are over 50 years old now! It went out of adjustment recently, and I made that fix last week. Disconnect the wire leads from the switch, and put a test light or voltmeter across the brake light switch wires to see if there is current there. Place the leads of a powered test light, or an ohmmeter across the switch terminals and see what happens when you work the switch. That will let you know if the switch is bad, or if it isn't getting power from the battery. NAPA has the switches available, and I think they are about $12. The hardest part of the job is getting under there! There are of course other possible conditions causing your problem, but a bad or misadjusted switch is definitely something to check sooner rather than later. Good luck, and I hope this helps you
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 4
Great! I am glad that you got your problem fixed. It is truly a P.I.T.A. to wedge yourself between the seat and the doorframe, with your head crammed up against the transmission tunnel! That being said, don't you just love your old F 250? I sure do love mine! Best, Bushuna
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
pineapple13888
All Things Towing
2
Sep 15, 2021 06:40 AM
ladderdawg
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Feb 24, 2009 11:54 AM
