· 2011 Ford E350 Wheelchair Van Equipped with Directed Electronics Remote Start and Keyless Entry

· Sat dormant for 2 months.

· Battery died(6 months old Napa)

· Jumped battery – It cranked a few times - no start.

· An alarm started sounding from the dash

· Once the alarm started, it would no longer crank.

· Charged the battery overnight – no help.

· Removed battery connections over night – no help.

· Removed Negative cable only over night – no help.

· Removed Negative cable, held the key in crank position with the door open and reattached the negative cable. – No help.

· Tested Starter – no issues

· Towed to a shop:

o Replaced starter

o Removed Keyless entry/remote start

· Vehicle began starting fine for a time although horn did not work and stereo wasn’t working.

· Vehicle began exhibiting the initial issues but without the alarm – No crank. I would turn the key and the lights would dim in the cluster, but no crank.

· Towed to same shop:

o Sat there for a week before they touched it.

o Once they checked it, it started fine with no intervention.

· Picked up from the shop and drove home.

· Tracked Stereo issue to a fuse on the back of the unit.

· Horn started working. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

· Started several times with no issue.

· Went out this morning and no crank.

· Tested all fuses

· Tested all Relays

· Visually checked all wires I could access

· Removed aftermarket stereo

· Tested Ignition switch – I assume this is working - I get 12v output when I turn the key out of one port with 2 wires. I follow those wires all the way through the firewall where the 12V continues but one goes to the under hood fuse box to a diode and another goes to the PCM(I think).

· Ran through all gears with the key turned to crank – no change

· Applied 12v to wire going to starter solenoid with key in the crank position. Strong crank/No start like it wasn’t receiving fuel.

 

Paragraph breaks are a readers best friend. These walls of text are difficult to read, no idea what you're asking about here.

 

This may sound really simplistic, but if it were me, I'd start with a brand new battery. Check all of the battery cables and relating wiring for any corrosion and tightness.

 

Thank you for the constructive criticism. I tried to make it more palatable.· 2011 Ford E350 Wheelchair Van Equipped with Directed Electronics Remote Start and Keyless Entry

· Sat dormant for 2 months.

· Battery died(6 months old Napa)

· Jumped battery – It cranked a few times - no start.

· An alarm started sounding from the dash

· Once the alarm started, it would no longer crank.

· Charged the battery overnight – no help.

· Removed battery connections over night – no help.

· Removed Negative cable only over night – no help.

· Removed Negative cable, held the key in crank position with the door open and reattached the negative cable. – No help.

· Tested Starter – no issues

· Towed to a shop:

o Replaced starter

o Removed Keyless entry/remote start

· Vehicle began starting fine for a time although horn did not work and stereo wasn’t working.

· Vehicle began exhibiting the initial issues but without the alarm – No crank. I would turn the key and the lights would dim in the cluster, but no crank.

· Towed to same shop:

o Sat there for a week before they touched it.

o Once they checked it, it started fine with no intervention.

· Picked up from the shop and drove home.

· Tracked Stereo issue to a fuse on the back of the unit.

· Horn started working. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

· Started several times with no issue.

· Went out this morning and no crank.

· Tested all fuses

· Tested all Relays

· Visually checked all wires I could access

· Removed aftermarket stereo

· Tested Ignition switch – I assume this is working - I get 12v output when I turn the key out of one port with 2 wires. I follow those wires all the way through the firewall where the 12V continues but one goes to the under hood fuse box to a diode and another goes to the PCM(I think).

· Ran through all gears with the key turned to crank – no change

· Applied 12v to wire going to starter solenoid with key in the crank position. Strong crank/No start like it wasn’t receiving fuel.

 

Sounds like there was an aftermarket alarm and remote start in the past. Who knows what wires they cut and how well your shop spliced them. If issues persist, you might take it to reputable stereo installer to have them check wires that are typically tapped or cut. They’d be more experienced making sure spliced wires hold.

I’m not the reference standard but I had a related issue with aftermarket remote door locks. I installed a kit but it kept blowing a fuse. I spliced the 2 or 3 wires I had cut to get it back to original while I scratch my head. It took a few redos but now it’s been working steady for three months. I’ve yet to sort the fuse issue.

Sixto
07 E350 5.4 176K miles

 

Was the water checked in the battery? Batteries will require added water in hot weather and/or they are being overcharged.

You charged the battery but was it tested for capacity? Has the charging system been tested?

You need to determine if you have a battery drain. Much online info on how to do that. Or get a good repair manual.

What did the shop "check" after it sat for a week and it "started with no intervention"? Seems like you're saying they didn't do anything to it but yet it "started fine" ??

How old was the gas before it sat for 2 months? When was the filter last changed?

 

This is most likely a PATS problem. Have you hooked up a scanner to it? I bet you will find codes for anti theft and the solution could be as simple as new batteries in the keys.