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Thank y’all for all the help, I think I’m going to order the spicers from autozone because they’re non-greasae and automatically came up as the right size….I don’t think the shaft is unbalanced because it’s smooth most of the time except at low RPMs and high speeds…
I allways use a hammer and a vice to change u-joints no heat needed. Unless its an aluminum drive line. Its worked for over 30 years as a fleet tech and houndreds of u-joints.
Actually waiting for the u joints to arrive from advance auto…I’m going to start with the rear drive shaft, but I’ve got a funny feeling the vibration is coming from the front end…so next will be ball joints…but hey, everything is OE and it’s 20 years old..
Just remember my previous post above when you're sitting there unable to pull the bearing cup completely out. I've done u-joints in many vehicles and this was the first time I had issues getting the cups out. You need something that will grip the exposed cup very well to get it completely out. I have a 20 ton HF press and it doesn't matter how much you press them out, they still need to be "pulled" out to compete the job.
Just remember my previous post above when you're sitting there unable to pull the bearing cup completely out. I've done u-joints in many vehicles and this was the first time I had issues getting the cups out. You need something that will grip the exposed cup very well to get it completely out. I have a 20 ton HF press and it doesn't matter how much you press them out, they still need to be "pulled" out to compete the job.
I was just fighting this on a Toyota. I wound up just cutting the cross out then pushed the cups into the now-void where the cross used to live. The only caveat is that the cups need to be moving fairly easily or there's extra risk of bending the ears with this technique. Sometimes I'll work the whole joint back & forth a few times with the BJ press, lubing whatever gets exposed of each cup, then cut it out
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