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I think if I take apart the rear plate as I did when I renewed the seal I'll be able to open up the space to reinstall the inserts. I just need to figure out where the rollers/pins go. If you have a thought on those I'd appreciate any guidance, thanks in advance.
Took the rear plate off and saw how the rollers and inserts got loose. Going to try your suggestion with packing the rollers in grease so I can drop the shaft in here
Last edited by johnnyidaho; Dec 12, 2021 at 05:06 PM.
Reason: Adding content
I’m not quite sure what you mean. The input shaft has a well where the output shaft fits into and that’s where I thought the rollers/pins need to go. Is this incorrect? Thank you
I’m not quite sure what you mean. The input shaft has a well where the output shaft fits into and that’s where I thought the rollers/pins need to go. Is this incorrect? Thank you
It is hard to tell but I think you are on the right track.
I'm going to pull the input shaft cover plate and "build" it from the output side then carefully pack the rollers into the input shaft with grease and cafefully assemble the input shaft to the gear box.
I am wondering when you replaced the seal did you pull out the output shaft? I see from the exploded there are two sets of roller bearings one on the main shaft and one on the counter shaft.
I really recommend buying a reproduction shop manual from a classic truck supplier. It will show you the order of assembly and disassembly as well as exploded diagrams.
Idaho211 many thanks for the great intel. When I was replacing the seal I did remove the four bolts holding the rear section of the gearbox which led to the 9 rollers and 3 fasteners landing in the bottom of the gearbox. I then removed the forward end of the gear box and painstakingly put all the pieces back together but to do so it was necessary to loosen the bearing retainer on the forward end of the gearbox which allowed the input shaft to travel approximately 1/4" forward which was just enough space to get the three fasteners in place. With that done it was now time to replace the 9 rollers into the rear of the input shaft while installing the gearbox which is fairly heavy. SpurredOn suggested I used grease to keep it all together while reassembling which worked quite well. Laying on my back I pressed the gearbox up and slid it forward with a little movement to align the input shaft with the transmission and to insure the 9 rollers remained where they belonged. Once in place I bolted the forward part of the gear box in place and then commenced on aligning the forks inside the gearbox. I found that the reverse/first gear fork had a slight bend in the shaft and that it hung up inside the sleeve of the cover plate which prohibited getting reverse or first gear. I attempted to take the bend out and sheared off the pin at the fork, see picture. I did a search and found a part on ebay and I'm currently waiting on measurements of that fork to be sure it's correct. The truck is back together so to speak and I can move it in second but as soon as I get the correct fork I will install that and call it good. It was a big job AFTER I pulled the four bolts on the gearbox which I did due to the trouble I was having removing the seal which I ended up cutting it up with a chisel to remove it so removing the four bolts were not required and added a ton of work but you live and you learn. Another thing, this truck sat on my brides grandparents farm in Iowa in a corn crib for about eight years before we received in 2001. When I pulled the gearbox all types of mouse fur came with it and I spent a few hours cleaning out the space between the gearbox and the transmission just aft of the large gear which is covered by a tin plate. The amount of mouse fur was amazing but it literally welded all the springs on the pressure plate and the clutch fork on place. I've always has a grind going into first and I have adjusted the clutch slave recently but I'm curious to see if it responds better with all that crap gone, see pic... Thanks again for you intel, I do need to get a manual but to be honest I only mend what needs to be done and so far most of that I've been able to find online or here in this blog. Mouse fur Broken fork
Back to work on the ford now that the weather is getting better and snow is all but gone. When I pulled the gear box and the fly wheel cover I noted a tremendous amount of mouse fur in the bell housing cover and did my best to dig it out. Now that I'm going to rebuilt the gearbox I wanted to ask can I pull the bell housing cover (6 bolts I believe) so that I can do a really good job of cleaning out the mouse fur which seemed to be in the springs on the pressure plate. So question is if I take the bell housing off am I going to have internal parts in danger of moving around? Thanks in advance
If you take off the bell housing inspection cover it should be fine. Do you have the transmission out? With the inspection cover off you can check the clutch and throwout bearing. If there is all kinds of crap in the clutch/pressure plate it might warrant replacing the clutch. If you are rebuilding the transmission it might warrant finding a good used one. T-98 4 speeds were used widely. If you take the tranny out rent a transmission jack. Very handy. Let us know how’s it going.
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