Here's my story. 1989 F-Superduty 460 EFI 5 speed manual. Only has 64000 miles, I bought it new. It sits a lot.
Took it out for an errand and longish drive. Running fine, however noticed on hot restart, had to open the throttle body and crank longer like it was flooded. Sit overnight and it would start right up like normal. Check plugs and they were gassy. Fuel pressure did not hold long after shut down. Figured leaky injectors.

Replaced injectors with new 4 hole Standards. Changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor at the same time Now it doesn' t run worth a crap. Starts and idles for a few seconds and dies, Only revs up if you pump the throttle and then revs up and dies. Have a code 33. Won't run long enough to check running codes. Have checked and double checked the wires and firing order.

I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, it was leaking fuel into the vacuum system. I checked the EGR valve, functions perfectly with hand vacuum pump. Replaced the EGR solenoid. Have checked all the vacuum lines and there are no breaks or leaks. Fuel pressure is fine now, and the pressure does not drop when the engine dies.

Any ideas? I am completely confused.

Would a plugged up convertor do this. I did notice the little bit I did run it the exhaust out the tail pipes seemed very hot quickly. Plugs don't look lean though. Seriously at my wits end with this.

 

I had similar issues stemming to my MAP sensor, and Distributor Pickup, unsure if either of these would be the culprit.

 

I know I am performing the mortal sin of throwing parts at it but.................

I have replaced nearly every sensor on this thing (IAC, EGR valve and solenoid, MAP, FPR, TPS voltage checks good) and its getting worse. I have good fuel pressure, It has good vacuum when I can get it to run for more than a second or two. Got it to run for a few minutes longer with the vacuum for the FPR and EGR disconnected and open. Tried to run the running test with the EEC scanner, but when the scanner started doing the test, it did something that killed the engine cold. Only way to get it to run and rev is to pump and feather the throttle body. But it will only stay revving for a second or two before it starts dying and have to start feathering again. The exhaust smell is acrid and caustic, but not sulfur.

I am getting very close to yanking this thing apart and putting a carb on it! Hate to do that though, since this old girl has been trouble free for 32 yrs and 64K miles. (Except for fuel pump replacements every 25K miles)

 

Are you using the Innova reader? Make sure your batteries are good. Try it again. Codes may help find out what is wrong.

 

Also suggest to pull the computer out then open it up to look for signs of a leaking capacitor(s) as well as burned or corroded components/traces. Very common problem these days.

 

Using old Actron scanner, with new batteries. I will pull the computer out and take a look. Just odd that it was running fine except for the hard starts and then after changing injectors all these problems start.

 

If it's obd1 then you should do what Rla says. He is one of our best members

 

My old Actron code reader was a glorified code flasher. I purchased it 25 years ago before I found out I could do the same thing with a paperclip.

 

Just went and bought the Innova scanner. It shows no trouble code on KOEO test. Still won't run worth crap. I am now leaning towards a timing issue? Computer looked fine, so distributor modules? Argggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

 

This is one of those scenarios where even though the computer looks okay it has deteriorating components. Only way to tell is to send it in for repair or get a "remanufactured" unit. For the price of a Motorcraft ICM it's a crap shoot to pull the trigger on replacing it or try a different computer. Either way the wallet thickness is going to suffer.

 

Let's see what rla says about running KOER codes.

 

Post# 1: Won't run long enough to check running codes.

 

One other thought: remove the SPOUT connector then start the truck. If it runs better then you may have a bad computer. Removing the SPOUT takes the computer out of the timing equation. The ICM will trigger off the raw PIP signal from the computer.

Second other thought: Did you leave the code reader on long enough to see the KOEO codes and the codes from Stored Memory? If there are no issues flagged in the KOEO tests you should have gotten System Pass Code 11. The same Code 11 if there are no stored codes.

 

If caps go bad in computer, if this truck has that issue, it's easy to tell and only takes a few screws and 5 minutes to get inside. Could have it repaired easily depending on how bad the damage is.

 

Post# 9 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20068837


Computer looked fine