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Not sure how well you can see it but I aligned the dots up and that is exactly how they came off on the old timing set. I even used a level to make sure they were perfectly aligned and not off a tooth.
Not sure how well you can see it but I aligned the dots up and that is exactly how they came off on the old timing set. I even used a level to make sure they were perfectly aligned and not off a tooth.
If it's a sin to know exactly what you need to do and then not do it, I'm going to hell. I chased every possible lead down until I surrendered and tore off the timing cover again. Oops.
I agree that the new chain will change the timing but would be unnoticeable. I also agree that if the OP misaligned the gear set, a timing light would help point that out. His base timing will be off 9° for just one tooth on the cam gear.
Curious, did the engine above even fire and run with it being off like that?
Curious, did the engine above even fire and run with it being off like that?
Fired, ran, accelerated. With EFI, I could not get it to idle. But that may have been due to the crappy valve job from the local mascheme shop. Also discovered three cylinders on right bank with up to 40% leak down. This with new rings.
Fired, ran, accelerated. With EFI, I could not get it to idle. But that may have been due to the crappy valve job from the local mascheme shop. Also discovered three cylinders on right bank with up to 40% leak down. This with new rings.
So you timed it with it being a tooth off? I wonder if you did not disturb the distributor, but did get the timing chain one tooth off, would it even start? Just trying to figure out how the engine reacts when mistakes are made.
So you timed it with it being a tooth off? I wonder if you did not disturb the distributor, but did get the timing chain one tooth off, would it even start? Just trying to figure out how the engine reacts when mistakes are made.
In my case, I had just swapped in a stock 1988 Crown Vic cam. So the distributor was timed with crank. And I would repeat, the valve problem should muddy up any observations regarding this cam installation error.
It's really a much longer story that's irrelevant to this thread.
Update**. So I got a timing light and the timing was a little off. So I set it 10 btdc and it made a huge difference. But still seemed to be missing but no longer felt as sluggish. So I advanced it just a bit more than 10, maybe 11-12. It helped even more. But it still seems to be missing. Like earlier mentioned it has a new coil, wires, plugs and cap and button. All vacuum lines seem plugged in also. So should I start pulling plugs and try another coil?
The 302's have a special problem, sparkplug wire crossfire between cylinders 7 and 8. These are the two rear cylinders on the driver's side. 7 and 8 are also consecutive in the firing order. And since they are near ech other and you want your wires nice and neat, you run wire 7 and 8 side by side. This can cause a slight miss. I think there was a tsb from Ford on it long ago. Take wire 7 and wire 8, and run them on opposite sides of your wiring looms and see if that helps it.
So I re-ran all the wires so they don’t touch but minimally and that did help. Still seems to be just a little off though. You can see and feel the truck shaking when at idle. I feel like I’m getting close.
JDM Speed 10.5mm wires. Came off Amazon. I bought them when I first got the truck to get it running. The ones that were on it were dry rotted and at that point I wasn’t even sure the truck would run, lol. Also used motorcraft plugs.
I'm sure someone will have a comment about the plug wires.
There was some talk a few weeks back about plugs wires in another thread.
It seems there are a lot of bad parts out there. When it comes to important things like car parts, IMO, you're best off not to buy things online. I tend to get most items from my local NAPA or buy from a trusted vendor.
You can take a ohmmeter and check each wire. They have a certain ohms per foot. You can put your meter leads on each end, and then watch the reading as you move the wire around to see if there is a break. They are very easy to damage, they are nothing but string with some graphite in the string.
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