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I have a 1989 f150 351w c6 auto and I have a 43mm turbo. I think you all know where I'm going with that. I only intend on pushing a few pounds of boost so i don't have to do a full bottom end on the engine and upgrade to the transmission. Im trying to figure out what I'm going to have to do to the vacuum lines (FPR and MAP sensor (emissions have been deleted)). Any advice would be appreciated. I don't want to spend my life savings on this project.
FPR needs to see boost so that it can maintain 39 psi across the injector.
MAP is going to be a problem. If I remember right, the ECU/MAP will read positive pressure as full vacuum, leading to instant fuel cut. You might be able to trick it with a check valve and run a rising-rate FPR to get it rich enough for boost, but it's going to be a real bandaid, even at 3 psi. You really should look into some means of tuning it, or least a MAF swap, if you're going to boost it.
FPR needs to see boost so that it can maintain 39 psi across the injector.
MAP is going to be a problem. If I remember right, the ECU/MAP will read positive pressure as full vacuum, leading to instant fuel cut. You might be able to trick it with a check valve and run a rising-rate FPR to get it rich enough for boost, but it's going to be a real bandaid, even at 3 psi. You really should look into some means of tuning it, or least a MAF swap, if you're going to boost it.
I think you're right. I wonder if I can get a sensor that will read both vacuum and boost (and differentiate between the two) and just adjust the parameters in the factory PCM instead of jerry rigging or getting a whole new EFI system with a new ECU.
IIRC, on 1989 the PCM only did engine "stuff", nothing with the body.
Easiest is to get a Holley Terminator X for Ford. Easy to set up and way easier to tune than a Ford PCM running a Quarter horse and Binary Editor. Unless you are a BE expert, but even then the Holley software will make sense very quickly.
$1000 for the Ford Terminator X. Another big benefit is new engine wiring harness, replacing the 32 year old stuff...
The 600lb gorilla with turbocharging has always been fuel management-
and most stock ECUs just don't have the capability
of managing fuel beyond natural aspiration.
'Add- on' systems do work- but they are just that, add- ons,
and getting them to interact well with the stock system has lead
many to just toss the whole mess and start with standalone, since
that's become an option.
(I first played with them in the late '90's, and it was a different story back then)
I would second the stinger setup even though I havent used it myself. Ive seen enough members here have good luck with the system. And ive seen plenty of guys go the holley route and not realize the addons needed for this and that, then you have more investment than you wanted.
As for the turbo, what is it from? Will it spool in the rpm range you want to run? What is your ring gap like? Too tight and you will pop a piston crown when the rings butt together. Low boost or not, a load pulling a trailer on a medium grade long hill will put heat in the rings quick.
Always intercool.
As far as the turbo is concerned its just a generic 43mm externally wastegated unit. I was not trying to go crazy because I like how the truck runs and i don't feel like blowing anything up (i.e. the transmission). As far as towing is concerned i pull 15k gooseneck trailers up 3 mile 6% grades so if that counts as heavy towing, guilty as charged.
As far as the turbo is concerned its just a generic 43mm externally wastegated unit. I was not trying to go crazy because I like how the truck runs and i don't feel like blowing anything up (i.e. the transmission). As far as towing is concerned i pull 15k gooseneck trailers up 3 mile 6% grades so if that counts as heavy towing, guilty as charged.
That... is where you are going to need to make sure you have enough ring gap. I would make sure you have minimum of .028 gap, but a pull like that you may want to go .030 to avoid killing a piston on a hill. Definitely need an intercooler and premium fuel if not tune fir e85 to be safest. I know that sounds like a whole lot of work, but do you want to half *** it and end up walking?
That... is where you are going to need to make sure you have enough ring gap. I would make sure you have minimum of .028 gap, but a pull like that you may want to go .030 to avoid killing a piston on a hill. Definitely need an intercooler and premium fuel if not tune fir e85 to be safest. I know that sounds like a whole lot of work, but do you want to half *** it and end up walking?
I haven't done anything with the bottom half and was kinda hoping I didn't have to. I don't know what my ring gap is. I was also planning on running regular fuel. Im getting the notion I'm in over my head and i won't be able to get this done in a day. This is why i reached out before I turned a single bolt.
I haven't done anything with the bottom half and was kinda hoping I didn't have to. I don't know what my ring gap is. I was also planning on running regular fuel. Im getting the notion I'm in over my head and i won't be able to get this done in a day. This is why i reached out before I turned a single bolt.
Umm. No. Not in a day. Now dont think im trying to push you away from doing this, but turbo builds take time to sort through.
You are going to have to upgrade the fuel system.
1. Bigger pump(s)
2. Bigger injectors
3. How it's controlled ( aftermarket computer, PiMPx is fairly plug and play)
You will have to upgrade the exhaust system
1. Where you are going to mount the turbo
2. How to get exhaust to and from the turbo
3. How to get oil to and from the turbo
Intercooling, towing like you described it will be required to keep charge temp down.
1. Where you are going to mount it
2. How you are going to plumb to and from it
Fuel used, minimal you could use would be premium no way around that. And even then towing that grade is going to make heat and alot of it. And heat will require octane.
The trans, put a transgo tugger or hd2 kit in the c6 and make sure that bands are adjusted, and you wont hurt it.
Umm. No. Not in a day. Now dont think im trying to push you away from doing this, but turbo builds take time to sort through.
You are going to have to upgrade the fuel system.
1. Bigger pump(s)
2. Bigger injectors
3. How it's controlled ( aftermarket computer, PiMPx is fairly plug and play)
You will have to upgrade the exhaust system
1. Where you are going to mount the turbo
2. How to get exhaust to and from the turbo
3. How to get oil to and from the turbo
Intercooling, towing like you described it will be required to keep charge temp down.
1. Where you are going to mount it
2. How you are going to plumb to and from it
Fuel used, minimal you could use would be premium no way around that. And even then towing that grade is going to make heat and alot of it. And heat will require octane.
The trans, put a transgo tugger or hd2 kit in the c6 and make sure that bands are adjusted, and you wont hurt it.
I was trying to get around most of this by sticking to only around 7psi hence the small turbo. I already had an idea of where to mount and plumb everything and where to pull oil from. I know I would need bigger injectors but i was hoping to not have to mess with the rest of the system.