Two years ago I pulled the bed to install the 38 Gallon rear tank.
Added 2 new fuel senders and Shower Heads. Installed a 3/4"
fitting in the Roll over valve grommet, and added 3/4" hose for
the vent, except I used heater Hose which is all I could locate at
the time.
maybe 4 months ago the front tank started leaking, so quit using it.
Last week was filling the rear tank, came back to the truck after paying
and see a puddle under the rear one.

I figured it was that damn heater hose swelling from the Diesel.
So today I deside to pull the bed. Easy this time, as nothing is
rusted this time around.
Last time I used HF Ratchet straps and the Cherry Picker which worked
ok, except they made me a bit nervous. So I ordered one of those "H" Shape
square tube bed lifters to drop the bed back on. Worked good and safer.

Well today I felt like the key Stone Cops from the silent films. Nothing went right.
Every thing is unbolted, unscrewed and unplugged. But lifting the bed it is front
heavy for some reason, add some to the rear to level it. keep adjusting ect....
Well it`s high enough, so roll the truck ahead a bit. Fiddle with the Cherry Picker
and it roll forward, front wheels drop off the edge of the concrete onto the gravel
and the **** end rises up foot n half. WTF?
Take the tension off the picker and lower it onto the truck. Back up, reposition the
picker etc... and finally get the truck out from under it.
Roll it into the shop and set on saw Horses.

I looked back to 2019 at pictures when I did it then, and see no difference at how
I did it. Well any way you can laugh at my bumblng around today.

Got the Diesel mess and dirt scrubbed off the tanks and frame and she is all pretty
again. Noticed the big rear hose is cracked where it clamps to the tank. Been 35
years since new, so thats a good long life.

I have read about every Fuel tank mod I can find on the internet to see exactly what
type of 3/4" hose is being used for the vent. I knew the heater Hose was short term.
I found a Gates hose # 27021 which is rated for fuels. One site sells it for $0.48 an inch.
But then shipping on top of that.
Most sites are selling it only in a 250ft roll for between $500 - $700.

Here is the site that has the 48 cent hose.
https://www.fillernecksupply.com/3-4...h-gates-27021/

So tomorrow Iam heading out to the Hyd Hose shop east of Carson City on Hwy 50 to
see what high price stuff they have. Then PNP is a few mile farther out. Might wonder
around and see what I can find in the filler hose dept.


Charlie

 

Quite a project. Hopefully you had help. Sometimes things don't work out the way we want to.

Let us know if you use a loop of that Gates #27021 on the fuel tank vent fittings. I'm sure it will work like a champ once you get it back together.

 

I did it all by my lonesome.
I did have my Wife with the Impact gun on one end and me
under the truck with a open end on the nuts.
Iam not using the stock Ford bolts as they were too expensive
for what they are from LMC. Using Hard Ware store bolts with a
Nylock nut and Anti-Seiz. Also cut up some thick mud flap material
punched a hole in it for the pad between the bed and frame so not
metal on metal.

When I was Google searching for 3/4" Diesel Vent hose, a lot of hose
for Diesel Transfer tanks comes up. That would be too stiff I would
think. Hope the Hyd Shop has the 27021 hose, even if pricier I can
have it now than wait a week for shipping.
Or I can buy 250 feet of it and be the Vent hose go to guy...LOL

Pulling the bed by your self isn`t all that big of a deal, just have to
be 4 places at once. unbolt the 6 bed bolts, remove the screws in
the fuel door to release the Fill Pipe 3 or 4, 5/16", unplug the wires
at the rear and lift. Be sure to use some card board between the
Cab and Bed. Be nice to have a small gantry and use a Chain Fall.

Need to get this back together before I head out to Oklahoma City,
for a ships reunion week from next Monday.

Charlie

 

I stopped at NAPA to see if they had the Gates 27021 hose.
No but they have NAPA Weather Head H10112 for $12.29 a foot.
That would have cost me $73.74 for 62 inches. That ain`t going
to happen. That would be for the two tanks.
I did buy a new 2" piece for the rear Fill Tube, which is cracked.
$21 for that piece.

EDIT: (a 2" piece of hose is a bit too large. Measuring it is 1 7/8")

Went out to the Hyd Hose Shop and bought a 62" piece for $25.96
with tax. $4.67 a foot.

Eaton easy couple general purpose H20112 19MM (0.75 in) DN19
20.7 Bar (300 PSI) 100820 MSHA IC-46/6 Made in the USA.
Suppose to be compatable with Diesel.

Tomorrow I will get these hoses on and the bed back on the truck.
The fitting I used in the Roll Over Valve grommet is a Lasco Barb
Elbow 19-9724. 3/4" MIP X 3/4" Barb Nylon. Paid $2.71 ea at our
local HW Store. I see Amazon has them for $8.23 ea.
so shop around.

I cut the fitting off right above the hex part flush with it. reamed out the hole
enough to make a tight fit so the Barb is right at the Hex. This way it does
not sit too high so you have clearance when the bed is replace.
Used some glue to seal of the 2 parts. Then drilled a hole on the flat side
of the hex, and used a 1/8" or so bolt with nylock nut. Did this so the 2 parts
would be tight and not swivel and be leak tight.
They stayed leak free for 2 years, it was dumb **** me using the Heater Hose
(all I could find at the time) which was the leak problem especially when one
came off.


Charlie

 

Did a lot of searching on google for the Fast Fill, Fuel tank Mod etc...
to see how other guys did it. Some are on 150 gassers and some on
the power Strokes, and the IDI`s.
the metal fill tube is different depending year and model. When I was
running around yesterday I stopped at PNP to see if I could grab a
couple fill tubes and practice cutting out the center metal part to open
them up. There is an 86 there but had locking fuel caps. Looking
around I noticed the later trucks have a screw on cap which 86 does not.

So today looking at mine, no way I was cutting out the center as I saw
on some of my searches. One guy mentioned that on the side of the
tube is a dimple on both sides, and that is where he drilled his hole and
worked up with larger bits. Largest I had was 13/16...at least that was
sharp. HF has these bits that fit in a drill that are like a Rasp. Used one
to enlarge the hole to get the 3/4 threads of the fitting to start to thread in.
Roughed up the metal around the hole with the edge of my 3" air powered
cut off wheel so the JB Weld would bite in good.

I pulled out the Lasco fittings out of the roll over valve grommet, and replaced
the 30 yr old Grommets with 2 new one`s. Definately a tighter fit screwing in
the fittings. Pushed on the new Vent Hose, have to use some silicone spray
to push them on, a tight fit.... and a Hose Clamp. Replaced the 2" rubber fill
tube, pushed in the fill pipe and cut the vent hose to length.
Going to take 16 hrs and preferably 24 hrs for the JB to set up, and tomorrow
will connect the VH to the fill tube. Also did the front tank. Looks like 62" is the
right length for both tanks.

Backed the truck up to the shop to mount the bed. This time I backed the bed
back into the shop after moving a bunch of crap around, shops are never big
enough. This one is 30 X 18. I also thought the over head door was too low
to lift the cherry picker boom high enough, but still has 12" to go. Took a couple
trys and got the truck almost dead center with the bed. I sprayed a line of JD
Yellow on the fuel tank for my center line and a stick of wood on the bed center
for something to line up to.
Lowered the bed down, you will have to make a few corrections moving it to line
up the bolt holes to the frame.
My Wife came out to help me get the rubber pads (Mud Flap Pieces) lined up with
the holes and the bolts in the holes.
Slathered the threads with Anti-Seiz. Time we got done it was dark. Tomorrow we
will torque down the bolts and connect the wires and hope the tail lights work. Last
time I had the bed off had a heck of a time with them.

Hope something I typed here helps some one that has never pulled a bed. 2yrs ago
first time we pulled it, the bed bolts were too rusted to get the nuts off. Had to grind
off the heads w/o damaging the sheet metal. Then lifted the bed an inch or so and
cut them off with the blue wrench between the frame and bed. Don`t want to torch
off the nuts on the drivers side as there is wires and fuel lines.

Charlie