Finally after two weeks none of my brake lines leak at their connections. Master stays full. Of course there is a caveat in that there is a little weeping, over time, under the pressure control valve in the distribution block and it is as tight as it can be. Bled the lines and used 1 qt. of new fluid doing it. Currently the pedal tends to go steadily all the way down rather than being firm. Yet after a dozen pushes on the pedal there are NO leaks. Hmm...

I guess I'll need to start the truck up, first time in over a year, to roll it out to check the brakes and see how the rebuilt suspension settles in with that positive camber. Probably won't be on traveled roads until I am 100% confident the brakes are good other than driving around my block with no stop lights or stop signs.

 

Make sure your drum brakes are properly adjusted before you take it out for a spin. Made a HUGE difference in pedal feel (and performance) when I replaced my master and lines.

 

Sounds like air in the master. Did you bench bleed it before install? If it ran dry after your line problems it may have air in it now.

 

Master was bench bled first and never was allowed to go empty but it has been over 6 months that was done. Haven't checked the adjustment of the rear brakes yet. The fronts I adjust till I hear contact and then on a forceful spin only get the tire to spin twice before stopping. Have to still check the rears though although one doesn't have to pull the emergency brake very far to hit heavy resistance.

 

Brake adjustment will only effect peddle height. If the peddle is low but solid brake adjustment will help.
If the peddle is spongy air is in the system somewhere or the master may be bad. How are you bleeding the system?

 

Bench bleeding is a wives tale. You can bleed a master on the truck just as easily and effectively as you can bleed one on a bench.

 

X2 I bleed the master on the truck.

 

I first use a large vacuum system to get the lines sucked clear of air and start flowing. Suction can be strong and hard to regulate to a bare minimum rate so I disconnect and then use gravity over a period of time for each wheel.

 

I tried the vacuum type with no success but that may just be me, never had luck with the gravity either. I've always used the two man method and it works great every time. The second man is actually my wife and she has become an expert doing it for the past 42 years

 

Same!

I do “prime” the master on the bench first so its easier on my helper. My experience is everything bleeds better under pedal pressure with a slight resistance at each of the wheel cylinder bleeders.

 

Do you ever notice how friends are never available when you say its time to bleed the brakes

 

coffee and donut works wonders engaging the 'pumper'

 

Wife is out of the question leaving only a 12 year old son.

 

12 is perfect. Gotta clearly define all required actions though!

Up (and wait for me to initiate a pedal press)

Down slowly

Down and hold (hold until I say otherwise)

Up

Down firmly

Pump them up

repeat these until done on each wheel.

These cover most of mine...

 

Be sure to start with thee cylinder furthest away from the master. RR, LR, RF, LF.