RPMs dropping + burning oil
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RPMs dropping + burning oil
I've recently been having issues with my RPMs dropping to 200 or the engine stalls completely when i come to a stop. It will start up without any problems and idle fine. I replaced the IAC and MAF sensor. Recently started burning oil and changed the PCV valve. It is still burning oil. Could all of this be from a vacuum line collapsing in on itself when i hit the brakes? My engine has 290k miles on it. It does not burn oil at startup, only after idling for some time. I was going to try to spray some ether around the gaskets and see if i could find a leak somewhere. Any help is appreciated thanks.
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compression test was all over the place, but all were above 110. Was hoping it wouldn't be internal.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2019
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Valve guild seals are worn out at that miles. The oil will build up around the valve guild seals and leak into the cylinders.
Hope you have changed the oil pump with that many miles on the engine.
There are two ways of changing these with the head on the engine, but you have to have the Ford valve tool for the 5.4-4.6 2valve system and not the 3 valve system.
Work on each cylinder one at a time with a small rope placed through the sparkplug hole into the cylinder to hold the valves in place. Drop cylinder down and place rope into the cylinder (leaving enough rope out so you can pull the rope back out after fixing) and then bring that cylinder back up to the top and it will hold both valves as you release the spring and replace the seal. Move to each cylinder one at a time.
The other way is using air to fill each cylinder and the air holds valves in place. In this system, you need an adaptor to screw into the plug hole and an airline hookup. Does not matter where the cylinder is setting, but you will lose air if the valve is open on the exhaust side so you move it just a little.
Hope you have changed the oil pump with that many miles on the engine.
There are two ways of changing these with the head on the engine, but you have to have the Ford valve tool for the 5.4-4.6 2valve system and not the 3 valve system.
Work on each cylinder one at a time with a small rope placed through the sparkplug hole into the cylinder to hold the valves in place. Drop cylinder down and place rope into the cylinder (leaving enough rope out so you can pull the rope back out after fixing) and then bring that cylinder back up to the top and it will hold both valves as you release the spring and replace the seal. Move to each cylinder one at a time.
The other way is using air to fill each cylinder and the air holds valves in place. In this system, you need an adaptor to screw into the plug hole and an airline hookup. Does not matter where the cylinder is setting, but you will lose air if the valve is open on the exhaust side so you move it just a little.
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