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IDI vacuum pump junk

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Old Aug 23, 2021 | 12:02 AM
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IDI vacuum pump junk

I Have a 94 F2 57.3 IDI turbo turbo this is the second time I’ve had to replace the vacuum pump anybody know why
 
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Old Aug 23, 2021 | 07:17 AM
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welcome to FTE. auto parts the past 10-15 years or so are pure junk made in china.
there is no quality built parts anymore like there were 30 years ago.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2021 | 12:15 AM
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I've had to replace my vac pump 2 twice since 2013. I basically treat it like a wearable part now, and I keep a spare in the back of the van for when it inevitably fails.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2021 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by wessonizedidi
I Have a 94 F2 57.3 IDI turbo turbo this is the second time I’ve had to replace the vacuum pump anybody know why
Make certain the vacuum system has no leaks. Often a leaking brake booster will kill a vacuum pump.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
Make certain the vacuum system has no leaks. Often a leaking brake booster will kill a vacuum pump.
how can you tell if the booster is leaking??
 
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Old Dec 18, 2021 | 04:12 PM
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If your other stuff is sealed, a hard pedal in the morning after sitting is a good indicator. Your first push after it sits should have travel to the floor. If its hard, you have a leak somewhere. Experiencing it now, with an AAP lifetime warranty booster. I bit the bullet and bought sufficient vacuum hose to connect the booster directly to the pump (to eliminate possibilities in the old plastic diverter deal and the old hose). As of right now, I either have a leakdown in the booster or the pump itself. It rears its head after sitting for 10+ hours.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2021 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by PossumTruck
If your other stuff is sealed, a hard pedal in the morning after sitting is a good indicator. Your first push after it sits should have travel to the floor. If its hard, you have a leak somewhere. Experiencing it now, with an AAP lifetime warranty booster. I bit the bullet and bought sufficient vacuum hose to connect the booster directly to the pump (to eliminate possibilities in the old plastic diverter deal and the old hose). As of right now, I either have a leakdown in the booster or the pump itself. It rears its head after sitting for 10+ hours.
Yeah thats why I want to add a "T" or a "Y" at the pump so it's a direct pull from the booster... How many feet of hose did you get to run from the pump to the booster ?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2021 | 09:34 PM
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I bought 8' because I didn't want to measure. I ended up using roughly 7', and there is still slack. I basically routed it then cut off excess.

At O'Reiley's, the only parts store that carried it around here, 8' was about $20. I was surprised that more parts stores didn't have the vacuum hose in bulk, but I guess its usually a pretty short run on most vehicles.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2021 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by PossumTruck
I bought 8' because I didn't want to measure. I ended up using roughly 7', and there is still slack. I basically routed it then cut off excess.

At O'Reiley's, the only parts store that carried it around here, 8' was about $20. I was surprised that more parts stores didn't have the vacuum hose in bulk, but I guess its usually a pretty short run on most vehicles.
Where did you split the hose from the pump? Any pics?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 07:22 AM
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My truck is a bare bones manual, so I didn't need to split the line. The only thing coming off the vacuum tree is, I think, a line for the low vacuum warning. Or I have no idea what that thing is. But it doesn't seem to matter.

If I was going to split it, I would just do it wherever it was most convenient. But if you just want to test it, you can bypass everything and run straight to the booster. Run it, then let it sit. I know I also bit the bullet and bought a vacuum gauge to confirm low vacuum when my original pump went out.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 11:35 AM
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The vacuum pump also operates all the HVAC controls in the cab. Running the vac pump to the brake booster directly would eliminate all the HVAC diverter controls. I believe you'd only have "defrost" setting if it doesnt have vacuum.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 11:37 AM
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Oh. And for the record, i bought my truck in 2013 and ive put 30,000 miles on it. I have not replaced my vac pump yet.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
The vacuum pump also operates all the HVAC controls in the cab. Running the vac pump to the brake booster directly would eliminate all the HVAC diverter controls. I believe you'd only have "defrost" setting if it doesnt have vacuum.
Yeah. Everything is manual in an 86', or at least my 86'.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by PossumTruck
Yeah. Everything is manual in an 86', or at least my 86'.
LUCKY!! i wish mine was that way, way more reliable hey possum your trucks twin is up the street from me... ill see if i can get a pic LOL
 
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Old Dec 19, 2021 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Prototypemech
The vacuum pump also operates all the HVAC controls in the cab. Running the vac pump to the brake booster directly would eliminate all the HVAC diverter controls. I believe you'd only have "defrost" setting if it doesnt have vacuum.
this is true because when i 1st start up my truck thats all that it has until higher rpms are reached, i want to split it for more brake reliability and to test the brake booster. i might have replaced my vac pump when it didnt need it as a result of a leaking booster but im not hearing any hissing sound from the booster so i dont know if it has a leak or not??
 
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