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Are there any posts about stud issues here at FTE yet?
It would be interesting to see which varieties of ARP and other manufacturers studs cause problems.
On Facebook I read this
Not the first nut I've seen broken, but you have to look at other vehicle platforms, such as GM LS. One engineer who works in Motorsports comments that is an issue; the ARP nuts are too thin and can fracture at the root of the hexes. It has me pondering. It's not common, or we would have heard a lot more about it with the Powerstrokes.
There are also many discussions that ARP does not test the application and makes a stud to a spec, which opens to a larger discussion about consistency and gasket excessive crush. One stud to absolutely stay clear of is Xotic, as several vehicle platforms have had issues.
But again, the issue is rare, and there can be cross-contamination with fake studs. Although I've never run across an original head bolt cracking on a PS, maybe I wasn't looking.
In my eyes, a big minus for the studs. Because of this nut all the head work has to be done again.
Jack, do you know the thread size? Is the top thread size for the nut M14x1.5 or M14x1.25 or another?
I know where you are going; I've been there already. Unfortunately, you are not going to find a commercial-grade nut that works with 220,000psi fasteners.
That's a little interesting, my friend. I can't get the threads to match up to my German-made thread gauge nor my German-made taps. 1.75, 1.50, 1.25. But my eyes are a little wonky.
From my early life, I know Aerospace fasteners can be made with rolled threads that are a little off from standards, so they can be distorted to a stated value when the threads are in tension. Or an interference fit, if you will. But maybe my German tap and die kit got distorted on the boat over here, global warming and all.
You can also determine the "thread pitch" (sorry, don't know the correct word in English) fairly accurately by measuring the length over 10 threads with a caliper and then dividing the value by 10.
I have not yet worked with the studs, but will try that. As far as I know, there are 2 common ARP types for the 6.0s . For me it would be interesting in what they differ.
Only in the material? Or also in the threads?
I have already thought a lot back and forth because of the stud / bolt issue. Have you ever seen how bolted connections are tightened in nuclear reactor technology?
The bolts are hydraulically pulled into the length. Then the nuts (the size of a truck tire) are turned by hand (!) onto the contact surface and the bolt is released -> tight.
On the engine stand you could realize do something.
So you could dimension the nuts larger because you do not need a tool to tighten.
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