Looks like the inlet was put in at an angle and the threads stripped out....or the picture is very deceiving. Remove it and check the threads.

 

Here are some more shots of the fittings...

Would plumbers tape help if the threads are the culprit?

 

Those threads look gnarly but mostly intact, the boss that the flare seats on looks good though... This is a common issue with old carbs. Don't JB Weld it, it's not fuel proof so they say, more importantly it's not removable.

I've got this same issue but worse on my 2100 and will be drilling it out and going to the next size threads with a brass male/female fitting. That way i'll be screwing/unscrewing fuel line from the brass fitting and not the soft carb body material. The flare fitting does the sealing, fuel should not be getting past it to the threads. Maybe clean the end of the fuel line with some scotchbrite pad work and make sure the corresponding carb side seat is clean. Be careful how much you tighten that fitting. I have seen carb thread repair inserts but have never used one...

 

Well hearing it's a common issue definitely makes me feel better. Thanks. I could swear I didn't feel like I was forcing anything into somewhere it didn't belong or anything. It didn't feel like I was cross threading anything. All went together really smoothly.

But I'll try the scotch brite and report back. No JB Weld - good tip thanks (I won't lie I had thought about it).

So this "flare fitting" on the fuel line just butts up against the opening on the carb and should not leak at all and the threads just hold this connection in place? It seems odd to me is all. Metal on metal and no gasket or anything to hold it in place other than this one threaded nut. But all right I'm game. Hopefully I can get it to connect back up right. Thanks!

 

So I'm pretty sure my fuel line is toast. I managed to get the leak down from an open fire hydrant to a steady drip but it's not getting any better and I've completely rounded off the nut at this point.

What I'm thinking of doing is picking up this fuel filter at Napa tomorrow...




... and from there how's it work? I screw the filter into the carb, cut (or bend?) the fuel line to fit and install the rubber hose between the filter and the fuel line? Is that right? Tighten it down with the hose clamps? Anything else I need to keep in mind here? Any issues with that plan?

 

2X. According to my 64 year old eyes, it looks like you had it cross threaded. Not started straight.

 

Some updates... I have indeed toasted the threads on the fuel inlet. Got a fuel fitting the right size and attempting to screw that in resulted in the metal from the fuel inlet coming out in small silvery chunks.

From there I bought a Dorman Help fuel fitting. Unfortunately the waythis thing works is the fuel inlet would have to be bored out to accommodate the repair fitting. And would only leave a couple millimeters of metal to support it in place. Not interested in attempting it. Carb is on its last legs anyway. Was already rebuilt before I got into it. One vacuum line is twisted closed. Float was replaced with a plastic float and believe it's missing a spring. And the choke arm is hobbled together. Not worth putting much more effort or money into repairing it.

I've eliminated the Chinese knock offs on Amazon from my mind.

I called all the local scrap yards and for 50 miles there are no viable carburetors even worth rebuilding. Checked eBay and found a couple candidates for rebuild but at prices I can't justify - around $100 after shipping and they're not quite the right year and / or size anyway.

At this point I'm weighing options on a new or remanufactured carburetor.

Reman candidates are carbs from

National Carburetors
Uremco
Autoline

New carb candidates

Holley 2300 Street Avenger in 350cfm or 500cfm

Have heard mixed reviews from all of these remanufactured carburetors and I'm not even sure the state of my carb wouldn't disqualify me from the core return anyway. Meanwhile the 350cfm vs 500cfm Holley debate for a stock 360 FE seems to go on and on forever in the forums.

And that's where we are.

Pulling the trigger on one of these options tomorrow morning is the plan.

 

If you wait til this weekend, I can send you pictures of several 2-barrels I have that would be a rebuildable core. If you want to bypass rebuilding and purchasing new, totally understand. Be sure to check lead times on the websites...don't want to place an order and find out it's out for several months.

 

Thanks anyway! Placed an order this morning at Summit for the 350cfm Holley. Already shipped and on the way.

 

I know I'm too late but another good repair would be to JB weld the whole fitting, cut the tube and put a short hose connecting the solid fuel lines. Your fix is much better if you have the bucks.

 

Good to hear. Will be nice to start fresh with a new carburetor. Sounds like lead time was perfect as well.

 

Well, it was a long road to get here, but I just finished retiming the distributor, setting my mixture screws, and my idle screw. Pulling 18 inches of vacuum and no pinging or anything testing her out. New Holley carb works so much better. No more hard starts. No more stalling. No more hesitation when im accelerating. Runs beautiful.

The fuel line threw me for a loop for a few days. I was trying to go with a new braided hose with ÷an fittings but the guy I ordered from sent me the wrong fitting for the fuel pump. Then I was trying to use the steel hose that was there and go from that with some 5/16 hose to a filter to a 3/8 line to the carb. Filter leaked... that sucked. Finally I figured out the pump took a 1/8 npt fitting but by then I'd returned the braided hose so I just went with a single 3/8 hose from the pump to the carb.

Then the throttle linkage I had wouldn't work with the carb. Still have the trapeze set up there. The rod clip I had was too small for the Holley. So I found some Dorman clips and one fit the Holley but kept popping off the rod no matter what I did (different geometry with the new Holley I guess) I secured it with a couple zip ties for a few days, but seemed pretty sketchy - not something I'd want to go on a long drive with for sure. So i bought a "universal" throttle linkage. The linkage used 1/4 inch fittings, the trapeze uses 3/16 fittings... drilled it out and working for now. Eventually I'll ditch the trapeze and go with a single rod - just need a longer 1/4 inch threaded rod to go with the fittings in the new linkage I have and should work fine. But for now...

TLDR

I'm back on the road.

oh and the new hose routing works great too haha. Think this thread kind of went off track a bit... anyway hopefully it'll be a cautionary tale for someone down the road... be CAREFUL not to strip the fuel intake on your carburetor when you go reinstall it after you take the time to rebuild it.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

Glad to hear you got closure on this problem.