In reference to a 2008 Lariat 5.4 Screw 4x4: Is it possible to get a pending code to set so I can clear it long enough to drive it home?

 

What code and symptoms do you have . Is it in limp mode . Home is how far ? How serious of a problem is it , Many a guy wished the had it towed than pushed it and did a lot of damage .

 

It's a P0001 PENDING fuel system code. 3 1/2 hour drive home. There's no ticking sound so I eliminated the phaser/timing issue. It's just a light rough idle issue. Owner stated it was running great until about 2 weeks ago. Owner is still driving it daily on a local basis. I'm beginning to think it's an injector issue and if I could get it to set the code I could then clear it long enough to drive it home. Keep in mind I'm 73 have had 7 trucks/Expeditions over the last 15+ years and have mostly did my own troubleshooting and repairs. Just FYI

 

Failing FPDM on the frame rail.

 

P0001 In the case of the fuel pump, its function is to increase the fuel pressure, which is needed in the fuel rail for the injectors to use. Fuel pumps have a high pressure side and a fuel volume regulator that is pressure controlled. When DTC code P0001 OBD2is set it means that the electrical reading is open.

Since this truck has no return line or regulator I imagine it relates to fpdm . The fpdm has more than a few inputs . The pcm keeps an eye on it so maybe thats the function that is open . The pcm watches the fuel rail pressure switch which is compensated with a vacuum line for acceleration .
The fpdm on rear axle is a high failure unit due to corrosion from dissimilar metals then water gets inside to circuit board . Back of fpdm is aluminum, axle is steel ,add water salt and heat . Its only a matter of time to put a new one on with plastic standoffs .
​​​​​​​Torque pro can monitor your fuel rail pressure according to pcm signals . But its not a true mechanical . pressure gauge attached to fuel line .
By the way I'm 76 and do my own stuff so is f150t and others in their 70's . Keeps us thinking and moving .
​​​​​​​I have more of a break down on fpdm system somewhere but I'll have to locate it .

 

DTC P0001 does NOT exist on this vehicle (too old). Neither does an electrical fuel volume regulator. Most likely, either your code reader is posting an incorrect DTC (cheap code readers usually) or digits have been transposed.

There is a general hazard of simply googling fault codes and then posting whatever you find without first verifying applicability...

 

After careful research I have considered that source as well. That's a fix that doesn't bother me and I'm prepared for. I've pretty well decided that if he still has the truck Friday (too many appointments the next 3 days) then I'll offer $3500 which I believe he'll accept. Thanks for your input I really appreciate it!
Isn't our age fun. Everything seems to revolve around doctors appointments. Go figure.

 

Guilty -as charged never saw that code before. Not a lot of info with that post. I wasn't sure he was stranded or not . I did not understand it was a possible purchase.
Good for him if he can save an old truck . Who knows where that code came from or what reader .
Code listings are far from perfect and greatly varied from manufacture to another very good mechanics with a lot of experience can ferret that out quickly not so much us diy duffers .

 

Bottom line is that a fpdm issue doesn't bother me. I feel comfortable if I go back, test drive the truck on the highway, and if it does fine I'll buy it and we'll head back home. Just FYI the current owner is hispanic, doesn't speak english, and I have to communicate with him thru his son. It appears he's been in the states most of his life so his son (I'm guessing 20'ish) and definitely doesn't want to take the truck to a shop to be fixed. I'm guessing for obvious reasons and just wants the truck gone. The owner before him purchased the truck new but I have no way to id him so I could get the history on the truck. Oh and the truck just needs the fuel issue resolved and new tires. I'll have it serviced at Ford and have it detailed at a local shop. That should do it for now. It will get less than 10K a year put on it.

 

It would not hurt to take a fuel pump driver module along with some simple tools, like 10mm wrench, maybe It's easy enough to get to to look at above the spare tire on the back side of a round frame cross member. It can be seen from the driver side rear fender well, but to change it means dropping the spare. If it's never been fiddled with, it's bolted to tjhe steel cross member in a flattened area, it has an aluminum body and they are prone to severe corrosion of the aluminum allowing moisture in tio the then open aluminum housing. Then inner contents are potted, but that has it's limits as to protection. It's a grand idea to use longer bolts and spacers to get it off the surface of the frame there.

Mine was starting to corrode on my '07 in 2009, I discovered it after a trip after reading about it here actually, but the housing was still intact, no holes, just surface corrosion on the back side that sits against the frame. I sanded it and cleaned it, then applied some several coats of clear, then used longer bolts and spaced it a good 1/4" off the frame. I also found a rodent chewn harness in which one wire of the several was chewed so that it was only holding by one thin strand. I fixed that too.

Not too long afterwards, I had to replace some fuel line over the gas tank for the same reason.

Just a thought after seeing FPDM mentioned. Not my picture of the new one, but posted it too for part number purposes and a retrofit standoff kit contents. .

 

Went for a second look at the truck yesterday and drove it. Much worse than before. No way it would make the drive home. Don't need extensive repairs to fill my time so I passed on this one. The search for the right continues. Thank you to those who offered perspective on what to check I really appreciate it. This is a great forum!