Engine won't start
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From: Lynch Station, VA
Engine won't start
I have an '85 Bronco II 2.8L and the engine rotates but will not start. It started to stall every once in a while when I would slow down, but I could always crank it back up. Then one time it just seemed to lose all power when I was going up a small hill and stalled and I haven't been able to crank it since. I'm thinking it's electrical because gas squirts out of the carburetor when I push on the throttle. I replaced the ignition wire, ignition coil, spark plugs, TFI Module, and checked the wires and distributor cap and rotor and it still won't turn over. I had adjusted the idle and choke a month or two before and it may hve been running a little rich. Could this have something to do with it, or just a coincidence? Would greatly appreciate any help.
Mike
Mike
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From: Lynch Station, VA
I checked the plugs and ignition coil and its getting plenty of spark. It doesn't start if I hold the pedal to the floor either. It backfires when I try to start it , whether the pedal's to the floor or not, so I wonder if it could be some kind of carburetor or fuel pump problem, there is gas flowing through the carburetor, but maybe not enough. Would that cause it not to turn over?
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From: peoria, az
If you hold it on the floor and it don't start, then it's not flooding. If you pump the pedal and it squirts gas into the carb, it should have enough to start. So if you have spark, it should start, unless it's not at the right time, hence the backfire through the carb. Pull the dist cap off and crank the engine to make sure the rotor is going around.
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From: Lynch Station, VA
I pulled off the distributor cap and the rotor is definitely turning. I turned the distributor some more and it still wouldn't crank. I can't turn it much because of the TFI module. I did find a wire coming from the ignition coil that had broken apart. I'm not exactly sure about the wire, there are 2 green wires and 2 red wires coming from the coil. It is one of the green wires, but it has some sort of rubber block, maybe some kind of fuse inline with the wire. It broke at the rubber block, I reconnected the wire without the block or fuse or whatever it is and it still did not crank. Does anybody know what this block is? Do I need to replace it or should it still start without it?
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From: Lynch Station, VA
The resistor was not the problem. I scanned the codes and my battery is weak since it hasn't been driven so I had to hook up jumper cables. With the cables hooked I got 23 and 18 codes which are TPS and SPOUT, I tried it without the cables and also got an 87 code which is fuel pump relay. Why the 87 code without the cables? Which of these problems is most likely to cause my problem?
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From: peoria, az
It could be any one of them. You'll have to look at each one. I'm curious about the relay code. You have an electric pump? It could go either way though, the spout is timing which would cause a backfire. TPS is more a fuel problem but may also cause a backfire if the PCM thinks it's opened up pouring more fuel in. I know, not much help. Start with the 18.
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From: Lynch Station, VA
After I thought about it for a few minutes I realized it can't be the 87 code because its a mechanical fuel pump. I was thinking the 18 code too, I know what it does but I really don't know where it is at or anything else about it. Could someone give me some info on this problem and how to fix it? Thanks.
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From: peoria, az
I don't have a diagram for your motor but, the way it works is, there are 2 wires running from the module to the PCM. There should be a Y/LG wire off the module that contains the spout which is a small, usually gray, plastic plug. This is USUALLY near the dist. From there it should go to the PCM (pin36?) There is also a DG/Y wire off the module thatshould go to the coil( where that resister is) and then to the PCM(pin 4?) These should all be checked for continuity.
I believe that what it does is...when the motor is turning, the coil is "fired thru the DG/Y wire which also sends the signal to the PCM to let it know that the motor is turning. When the computer determines that the motor is running( by the speed of previous signal), it sends a signal back to the module thru the Y/LG wire,adjusting the timing.
By unplugging the spout plug, it takes the comp out of the loop so that "base timing" can be set.
I believe that what it does is...when the motor is turning, the coil is "fired thru the DG/Y wire which also sends the signal to the PCM to let it know that the motor is turning. When the computer determines that the motor is running( by the speed of previous signal), it sends a signal back to the module thru the Y/LG wire,adjusting the timing.
By unplugging the spout plug, it takes the comp out of the loop so that "base timing" can be set.
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From: Lynch Station, VA
I checked the wiring and connections and they all looked alright as far as I could tell. A couple of weeks ago I replaced the TFI module, but not the stator, if the stator is bad would that bring up the 18 code and possibly be causing the problem?
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From: peoria, az
No, I don't think that your stator would be a problem if you are gettingspark. I think your problem is either the comp., or the return path to the module. Could be the wire from module to comp too though. Did you use a meter to check these?
(correct me if I'm wrong here Ken) I'm not too familiar with this motor.
(correct me if I'm wrong here Ken) I'm not too familiar with this motor.