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I see a few guys posting about about stroker builds. I know with a stroker build there will have to be machining to the block that needs to be done but what about rotating assembly?
I want to order a complete assembly that is not going to give the machine shop an aneurism trying to get it to work.
Is there a preferred vendor/company for ordering rotating assemblies? I've been looking at the kits at Summit but dont want to pull the trigger without more knowledge.
Most of the time I use components from Scat. With a stroker your choice of rod can be an important factor when it comes to clearance within the block. For instance a 393 Windsor which reuses the stock 351W rods a lot of time needs a little work at the bottom of the block by the oil pump. Also if the rods happen to have the bolts that stick through the nut that part which sticks out has to be ground off. If you do something like a 408 or 418 with a 2.100 rod journal and an aftermarket rod it usually fits in a Windsor block with no grinding if you use a rod like the Scat 7/16 bolt I beam rod.
On the 351C most of the time I end up building a 408/410 or once in a while a 383. Those all use a 2.100 journal so clearance in the block isn't any issue.
Balancing on the Scat steel cranks tends to be more difficult than the ones from Eagle at least on a Cleveland where a 408 usually needs a piece or two of heavy metal to internally balance.
If you're building a big Ford 4.500 stroke will clear in any block with no grinding at all if you use a steel rod.
I've had some stuff from Coast come through the shop before and it was fine. I think that they used to be part of Probe or Probe used to be part of them one time or another.
How about flex plates and balancers? I know there are a couple different kinds for a Windsor but how does stroking determine that.
The stock 351 Windsor never changes as far as the amount of weight is concerned. They are all 28oz even the ones with the one piece seal. If you do an internal balance assembly just use a flexplate for a 300 6 cylinder engine. Different transmissions had different flexplates depending on if you had a C4 or C6 transmission.
I've read there may be advantages and disadvantages to internal (zero balance) vs external balance. Intuitively, I would think that internal balance would be better, instead of having counterweights hanging on the ends of the crank. Is it just a lot more work to do that? Also, would an internal balanced engine also need a zero balance harmonic damper?
Amidst a 408W build myself; yes, I picked up a zero balance flywheel and balancer because my rotating assembly is internally balanced.
Back in April, I looked at Scat and Eagle, comparable kits. Scat said there's would be ready sooner. Fast forward to last Friday 8/13; two more weeks for pistons (again). So I called Eagle and they were two weeks out as well if ordered from them, but Ray referred me to DSS for pistons that I needed (from Scat in the kit they were assembling). DSS had their mad-in-house forged pistons I needed on the shelf. Turns out, they had a whole rotating kit I needed on the shelf so I pulled the trigger! Crank arrived today, rest tomorrow.
I read good things about them, and will report back after I get it up and running.
I've read there may be advantages and disadvantages to internal (zero balance) vs external balance. Intuitively, I would think that internal balance would be better, instead of having counterweights hanging on the ends of the crank. Is it just a lot more work to do that? Also, would an internal balanced engine also need a zero balance harmonic damper?
For under 6500rpm or so I don't feel that it makes any real difference. Internal might put a little less stress on the mains, external can have an assembly that's lighter.
For what it's worth when I do balancing I always stick to a standard amount of weight. On a Ford small block either 28oz or 50. I never do a custom amount of weight; that way if something happens in the future the component can be changed without harming the overall balance.
I've had some DSS pistons come through here before and they were nice. Sort of like a Probe or SRP piston. Good quality.
I've also seen main journals being turned to 2.75 on some kits.
If you do that you have to use the main bearing spacers that Federal Mogul and I think maybe Ford Racing used to sell. The problem is there are two ways to do this: 1 use the 351W thrust width and turn .250 under, or use the 351C thrust width and a standard size 351C main bearing set(SVO V8 style). I've done it the first way for a circle track build where a stock crank was required. It's a lot of work and if the engine speed isn't 7000rpm or so it's probably a waste of time.
Aftermarket stroker cranks for the Cleveland are usually made in the SVO style meaning 351C main bearings and 351W crank snout. This requires ether a spacer or a special timing set to get everything lined up.