Stalls when put in Drive,Code 629. Erratic idle.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 33
From: Swansea SC
Brex ,seems if all checks out I would go over everything you did to your ride and make sure your replacement parts were CORRECT. Years back in this forum, the capacitor leakage/missing legs were fixable .Many -as I actually purchased caps and soldered them back in for a fix .You stated your ECM was fried and after taking mine apart (years back) ,it actually was burnt looking(only) and the caps had leakage ,it was repairable-simple fix. Changing parts as your icm ,distributor and even your ECM ,recheck and make sure that compatible to your ride .I know you stated that all numbers matched with codes .Do your have your original ECM ? To Repair??? since your original was not getting that code 629 ???
But if it was actually fried-(burned up) That would be a starting point , what caused my original ecm to fry .
as for icm-tps , if these were purchased at local discount stores , not much trust in these electronics . TR
But if it was actually fried-(burned up) That would be a starting point , what caused my original ecm to fry .
as for icm-tps , if these were purchased at local discount stores , not much trust in these electronics . TR
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 9
Brex ,seems if all checks out I would go over everything you did to your ride and make sure your replacement parts were CORRECT. Years back in this forum, the capacitor leakage/missing legs were fixable .Many -as I actually purchased caps and soldered them back in for a fix .You stated your ECM was fried and after taking mine apart (years back) ,it actually was burnt looking(only) and the caps had leakage ,it was repairable-simple fix. Changing parts as your icm ,distributor and even your ECM ,recheck and make sure that compatible to your ride .I know you stated that all numbers matched with codes .Do your have your original ECM ? To Repair??? since your original was not getting that code 629 ???
But if it was actually fried-(burned up) That would be a starting point , what caused my original ecm to fry .
as for icm-tps , if these were purchased at local discount stores , not much trust in these electronics . TR
But if it was actually fried-(burned up) That would be a starting point , what caused my original ecm to fry .
as for icm-tps , if these were purchased at local discount stores , not much trust in these electronics . TR
I tried three different ECM's and its doing the same thing with all three, they all were the same part number, hardware code as the original.
I did do some non related work to the truck but retraced my steps to make sure nothing was accidently knocked loose/disconnected.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 33
From: Swansea SC
Yes I noticed the picture and that Can. be repaired !When you mentioned a used ECM ,I cringe . I have ,as many others ,replaced parts /electrical/ electronics that were Not up to Ford specs .Who did you purchase the used ECm from and if you may ,post the numbers and codes .It’s worth a try to make sure your ecm is correct and I believe they are listed as federal emission and California emissions .I can remember others having problems with there ECM replacements .
Also ,what caused your initial problems and how long have you owned your Bronco .Hey it’s worth a try ,anything to Help TR
Also ,what caused your initial problems and how long have you owned your Bronco .Hey it’s worth a try ,anything to Help TR
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 9
Yes I noticed the picture and that Can. be repaired !When you mentioned a used ECM ,I cringe . I have ,as many others ,replaced parts /electrical/ electronics that were Not up to Ford specs .Who did you purchase the used ECm from and if you may ,post the numbers and codes .It’s worth a try to make sure your ecm is correct and I believe they are listed as federal emission and California emissions .I can remember others having problems with there ECM replacements .
Also ,what caused your initial problems and how long have you owned your Bronco .Hey it’s worth a try ,anything to Help TR
Also ,what caused your initial problems and how long have you owned your Bronco .Hey it’s worth a try ,anything to Help TR
The initial problem was rough idle, stalling and stumbling, when I got home it died and wouldn't start, the only code I got on the original ECM was 212. With the last three ECMs it runs alot better but still has an erratic idle and of course the tranny issue. I attached a pic of the original ECM.
Its been my daily driver for the past 11 years and this is the first time I've had any problems.
Last edited by BRex69; Aug 12, 2021 at 11:16 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 33
From: Swansea SC
Rock auto carries them .Blue streak electronics ! Look up your year # etc .There is also info for troubleshooting your ecm there! I am not saying your ecm is bad ,but after your troubleshooting thats odd everything is correct.
example I had erratic idle,replaced the tps with advance auto brand then Auto zone ,the idle got better but was not right .I ordered a motorcraft ( brand) more costly Bam !problem fixed
example I had erratic idle,replaced the tps with advance auto brand then Auto zone ,the idle got better but was not right .I ordered a motorcraft ( brand) more costly Bam !problem fixed
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 33
From: Swansea SC
Your original code 212 , what fix did you provide for that ? TPS? ICM? Or was it the ECM replacement .RLA2005 provides some great troubleshooting for the initial code 212 .Your search button here is your friend .TR
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
I found this chart on FSB and this morning have properly tested all of the solenoids and they all tested good.
Here are the readings:
Shift solenoid 2 20.5 ohms
Shift solenoid 1 20.7 ohms
TCC solenoid 20.8 ohms
Pressure control solenoid 4.5 ohms
Coast clutch 20.4 ohms
I tested at the solenoid connector and at the C110 connector.
Here are the readings:
Shift solenoid 2 20.5 ohms
Shift solenoid 1 20.7 ohms
TCC solenoid 20.8 ohms
Pressure control solenoid 4.5 ohms
Coast clutch 20.4 ohms
I tested at the solenoid connector and at the C110 connector.
Also measure the resistance between the Purple/Yellow wire and the other solenoid wires. With the shifter in Drive Solenoid 1 is energized. If there is a short between the wires for Solenoid 1 and the Converter Clutch Solenoid the latter would be energized as well.
If the readings look "wonky" also disconnect the PCM. While you are under the truck you may as well check the other solenoid wires with respect to ground and the other solenoid wires for signs of shorting together.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 9
So that debunks the shorted solenoid theory. That is one less item on the list to check. Next would be checking the Purple/Yellow wire resistance to ground. You may have done that before, but I suggest pulling the solenoid pack connector then measure the resistance of the Purple/Yellow wire (Pin 4) with reference to ground. ensure the key is in the Off position. The resistance should be relatively high, K ohms or better.
Also measure the resistance between the Purple/Yellow wire and the other solenoid wires. With the shifter in Drive Solenoid 1 is energized. If there is a short between the wires for Solenoid 1 and the Converter Clutch Solenoid the latter would be energized as well.
If the readings look "wonky" also disconnect the PCM. While you are under the truck you may as well check the other solenoid wires with respect to ground and the other solenoid wires for signs of shorting together.
Also measure the resistance between the Purple/Yellow wire and the other solenoid wires. With the shifter in Drive Solenoid 1 is energized. If there is a short between the wires for Solenoid 1 and the Converter Clutch Solenoid the latter would be energized as well.
If the readings look "wonky" also disconnect the PCM. While you are under the truck you may as well check the other solenoid wires with respect to ground and the other solenoid wires for signs of shorting together.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
For sure you want to disconnect the solenoid pack as stated previously. You can try measuring for shorts to ground or between the solenoid activation signals with the computer (PCM) connected, but in the long run it is probably best to disconnect the computer to eliminate something else in the circuit.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 9
For sure you want to disconnect the solenoid pack as stated previously. You can try measuring for shorts to ground or between the solenoid activation signals with the computer (PCM) connected, but in the long run it is probably best to disconnect the computer to eliminate something else in the circuit.
Thanks again
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 9
Ok, I checked all the wires in reference to ground then checked the P/Y against each of the other wires and all the readings were in the M ohm range, so no shorts. All the readings were taken at the solenoid connector with ECM unplugged.
I'm going to have to get a new connector for the solenoid pack, mine is pretty much falling apart.
I'm going to have to get a new connector for the solenoid pack, mine is pretty much falling apart.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 9
Made some unexpected progress today. I needed to move the Bronco out of the garage to clean up. I started it up and the erratic idle is gone, idles smooth as could be. After about 5 minutes I realized I hadn't plugged the solenoid pack wires back in from when I was working on it the other day, so the trans problem and erratic idle are related some how. I had to order a new solenoid connector because mines falling apart so I guess once thats fixed I'll be back at it
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 9
Yeah, hopefully that will do it. I'm going to pull the harness out from under the truck, remove all the plastic loom and inspect every wire. Won't get to it till the weekend. Will post the results
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 33
Likes: 9
Still waiting on the new connector, in the meantime I pulled the harness out stripped off the plastic loom and inspected every wire and all are good. The solenoid pack connector on the trans has fluid in it and it soaks the female end of the connector. Could this cause a short?