Starter solenoid help.
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Starter solenoid help.
I need some advice as I’ve been scratching my head all morning.
1966 F100 352FE last registered in 1982
Started with a slow crank. Then no crank. Pulled the starter, tested it, starter was dead.
New starter, and went ahead and replaced battery cables and starter cable as they were old and crusty.
Hooked it all back up and the solenoid went out. No voltage to the starter cable on crank. Have swapped it out with new solenoid and still having same issues. Video attached. Still very little voltage to the starter cable.
Any advice on what I may have done wrong or if it’s just a bad part out of the box I would appreciate it.
1966 F100 352FE last registered in 1982
Started with a slow crank. Then no crank. Pulled the starter, tested it, starter was dead.
New starter, and went ahead and replaced battery cables and starter cable as they were old and crusty.
Hooked it all back up and the solenoid went out. No voltage to the starter cable on crank. Have swapped it out with new solenoid and still having same issues. Video attached. Still very little voltage to the starter cable.
Any advice on what I may have done wrong or if it’s just a bad part out of the box I would appreciate it.
Last edited by don_sanders; Aug 8, 2021 at 11:12 AM. Reason: Adding video
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I doesn’t have the keys so I’m using a remote starter trigger.
I’ve run a jumper from the “I” post to the coil, and one of the clips on the remote starter trigger clips on the “s” post.
Why they are loose. Have 12.5 volts to the position side of the solenoid.
I’ve run a jumper from the “I” post to the coil, and one of the clips on the remote starter trigger clips on the “s” post.
Why they are loose. Have 12.5 volts to the position side of the solenoid.
Fleet Mechanic
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Running a wire from the I post to the coil will only let the engine run as long as you are cranking, those 2 posts should be tight, do they have nuts on them, do you have the other lead of the starter trigger hooked to the pos battery post, have you tried using a heavy jumper wire from the pos post on the soleniod to the starter post, if the soleniod and starter are good, the engine should turn over.
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Yes all four posts were tight.
I made a heavy gauge jumper and went from positive battery post to starter post. Same chattering sound.
solenoid is grounded well and has 12.6 V at the battery post of the solenoid.
I made a heavy gauge jumper and went from positive battery post to starter post. Same chattering sound.
solenoid is grounded well and has 12.6 V at the battery post of the solenoid.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Asheville, NC
One problem that occurs with the relay. The posts have a bottom nut that holds the stud connection. The outer nut is tightened to secure the connection. If the lower nut is not held when tightening the outer nut, the internal connection can be compromised.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2021
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Have you tried a Good set of jumper cables connected to the battery posts? Attach cables to battery posts, then attach ground cable to a mounting bolt on the starter and use the positive to just touch the terminal on the stater. Or if it's easier, unclamp the positive at the battery, clamp to starter post and touch the battery post.
If the engine cranks (it should not start this way) with the jumper cables then there is something wrong in the wiring. Could be a bad solenoid (if I'm reading correctly, I think that is the problem), or maybe a bad ground at the starter or battery to cab/engine, or even a bad battery. Try a known good battery. Also try keeping the ground on the starter and touch the solenoid to starter cable at the solenoid. Could be a bad wire even though it's new.
Good luck!
Tom
If the engine cranks (it should not start this way) with the jumper cables then there is something wrong in the wiring. Could be a bad solenoid (if I'm reading correctly, I think that is the problem), or maybe a bad ground at the starter or battery to cab/engine, or even a bad battery. Try a known good battery. Also try keeping the ground on the starter and touch the solenoid to starter cable at the solenoid. Could be a bad wire even though it's new.
Good luck!
Tom
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Southern California
In the video, that chattering sound is the contact in the solenoid bouncing. Or rather making and breaking contact. This is caused by either low voltage, bad ground, P.O.S. Chinese solenoid. If you have the old solenoid open it up, see how it works, and clean the contacts. put it back on the truck. You said you replaced the starter cables, How about the battery ground cable? Put a nice heavy (4Ga or better) ground cable to the engine block, from the same spot on the block to the frame, and one from the battery to the sheet metal. The inner fender where the solenoid lives or the core support are good places, do both.
To test the + cables, unhook the one from the battery at the solenoid and use a headlamp bulb as a test light. In other words, ground one terminal and touch the other with the battery cable. The light should be hella bright. This will put an actual load on the cable that an Ohm meter can't. Do the same with the cable to the starter.
Speaking of the starter, did you bench test it prior to installation? Got to make sure it's good cause new stands for Never Ever Worked.
Good Luck, Dan. TK65
To test the + cables, unhook the one from the battery at the solenoid and use a headlamp bulb as a test light. In other words, ground one terminal and touch the other with the battery cable. The light should be hella bright. This will put an actual load on the cable that an Ohm meter can't. Do the same with the cable to the starter.
Speaking of the starter, did you bench test it prior to installation? Got to make sure it's good cause new stands for Never Ever Worked.
Good Luck, Dan. TK65
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