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I have a 2003 Ford E350 5.4 that needs a new alternator. I tried replacing the VR and brushes with a Motorcraft kit and that did not work. I bought a Bosch 130 amp alternator that came with incorrectly cut threads. @JWA Likes Napa as the lifetime warranty is great. I found a Napa Power Premium 2133115E Alternator GL-485RM Reman on eBay for $80 delivered. It's the 130 A alternator. The seller bought out a closed Napa parts store and has this alternator available. Napa sells the same unit on their website with a lifetime warranty for $180. For $80, I am not concerned about the warranty. My concern is reliability. The alternator that I am replacing is a reman Napa. The warranty does not follow the sale.
New or reman alternator? Reliability is more important than price.
I have read up and down the FTE forum. Have not heard any bad posts on Napa alternators. This includes remanufactured. However, if I am going to spend over $200 on a new, I may purchase from an independent like QuickStart or Nations. Both are US-built with parts sourced in the US and abroad.
Any thoughts or experiences on the new vs reman alternator?
Is there a auto electric shop anywhere near you that rebuilds starters and alternators? If so, what do you think about taking your bad one along with the Motercraft kit to them and let them take a look at it.. Might be something simple and they cold use your kit.. The shop near me charges around $100 to rebuild one. You already have the kit..
My opinion on alternators hasn't changed---new NAPA premium is my one and only choice. As Annaleigh suggests IF you have a local auto electric shop or even if its slightly inconvenient that'd be my first choice, for off-the shelf easily obtained and warranty support close by there's no other choice.
I've replaced three E-Series alternators with NAPA stuff and as long as 10 years later they're all performing well. I did have my local rebuilder re-hab my OEM '05 alternator to the tune of about $165, I consider his quality above anything else in the auto electrical area.
If no such local guy is available NAPA would be my one and only choice.
Gentlemen, than you you for your quick response. I have not found and such said alternator rebuilders where I live. As JWA says, Napa is the first choice. Price is not my concern as I previously dropped $125 per oil change on an E350 diesel. My concern is driving down a remote mountain back road and being stranded by a preventable incident.
Napa has an online Flash Sale 20% off for members. Free home delivery. I noticed that online prices are better than in store pickup.
Seems like the lower priced severe duty is a better choice. These are the 2 best new Napa alternators listed.
I have the quick start alternators from alternatorparts.com on my excursion and my f250. The one on my f250 has been on for 10 years now. They're great. They're open about the component they use and where they're sourced which is why I chose them. They're both the 140 amp versions.
I've had mine rebuilt twice, first build lasted near 20 years, I have mine tweaked for more power, I have dual batteries for my handicap equipment, shops are getting harder to find tho.
I've had mine rebuilt twice, first build lasted near 20 years, I have mine tweaked for more power, I have dual batteries for my handicap equipment, shops are getting harder to find tho.
I would have it rebuilt if I could locate a good shop. I think the cost of running a business in California makes it difficult for rebuilding shops.
I would have it rebuilt if I could locate a good shop. I think the cost of running a business in California makes it difficult for rebuilding shops.
I know just about all the classic car parts seem to be from out your way tho, I made friends with the shop owner here, seems getting people to come in to work is getting harder, may wind up losing him if he has to close, there is no one else.
Coolfeet I'd get a more clear understanding as to what that "limited warranty" caption really means---it doesn't seem to be described how long or what's covered.
I also don't see the spec's of your choices shown---what difference is there in the two and what justifies the price differences?
Seems to me last alternator I bought from NAPA was just at $200 but it's been at least 5 years by now.
The less expensive alternator is online-only, is rate "SD" or severe duty, press-fit welded, 70 amp diode. The limited warranty does not transfer when the vehicle is sold to the new owner. Since many Napa stores are independently owned, you cannot take back an online purchase to the local store. I suspect taking back a part purchased from another local store is just as difficult. I purchased a serpentine belt from Napa in Utah and was not able to return it to my local California Napa.
I bench-tested the alternator at O'Reily's and it failed all 3 tests.
I installed the new QuickStart US-made alternator and it's putting out 11.7 volts measured at the back of the alternator. This concerns me!
These are my test results:
The ScanGauge (connected to OBDII) reads 11.7 volts with the engine running.
11.7 volts on the back of the alternator with the engine running. 12 volts with engine off.
11.7 volts on the Voltage Regulator/alternator plug with the engine running. 12 volts with the engine off.
The battery reads 12 volts from the terminals. I know, it needs to be charged again.
The negative and positive voltage drops from the alternator measured insignificant.
I removed the positive battery cable with the engine running it died immediately.
The voltage regulator needs 12 volts KO to work. I connected the DVM to the wire going into the VR and it read 0 volts. My battery indicator light does not go on during the starting cycle. I think there's a fuse link buried in the wiring harness that went bad. Any thoughts?
@JWA I ordered the 2003 wiring diagrams from the link provided. The 1998 and 2004 manuals from previous vans do not meet my needs. I am looking for the fusible link from the battery indicator to the VR plug PIN #1, battery indicator, control.
Battery Indicator Light does not come on during start up.
The battery indicator light does not come on during start up. The indicator light goes to a circuit that feeds 12 volts KO to the voltage regulator. The alternator will not produce power until the VR receives 12 volts. I ordered the 2003 Ford electrical wiring manual yesterday on FleaBay.
I am looking for this diagram for the gas version if anyone has it. My manual should arrive in the mail by the end of the week.
Could I supply 12 volts to VR through circuit tester with a lamp? I could attached the end to the wiring leading into the VR.. This should wake up alternator to start producing current.
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