When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah, we all wish we had that baseline when we encounter problems and don't know what's normal for our truck.
I learned a long time ago during my days in the service troubleshooting equipment that just because someone on the phone says I should be seeing "this or that measurement" does not mean that is what I absolutely should be seeing.
I have screenshots, data logs and charts saved in a folder called "good running conditions" on my tablet, phone and laptop.
Advice and help from others is great, but when it comes down to it fixing the issue is up to you and only you know how your truck normally runs and how it is running now. Even then, sometimes (like you recently experienced) when traveling their is very little to no signal. Information specific to your "good running conditions" can be viewed at any time, regardless if there is a 4G/3G signal. Having secondary and tertiary choices are essential to getting back on the road as soon as possible.
I am a bit OCD and detail oriented though, so take what I have for what it is...
Not to beat the oil topic to death… but SSJ mentioned no benefits. My opinion differs slightly.
I like synthetic oil for its superior flow characteristics in the cold and better stability in the hot. Just try to pour the same weight conventional and synthetic out of the bottles in the WV winter and the difference is drastic. This translates to quicker system pressure at startup. Enough to matter? Not claiming that. But I did see a huge improvement in pressure time with my old OBS when switching. It romped less and pressure build time was probably cut by 1/3.
I have a preferred brand for my diesel (which I also use in the race car due to the better ZDDP package) but I’m not an oil snob. My parts store doesn’t really carry store brand diesel oil.
My daily drivers all get store brand (Service Pro?) synthetic. And no, I do not capitalize on the extended drain intervals, I just go ahead and waste my money.
I appreciate all the info here, I was indeed just trying to see what the basic comparisons looked like, that being said I realize everyone's trucks , ideas and scenarios will differ ever so slightly.
As far as Conventional oil versus the Synthetic, I wanted to make the point: If i am running unloaded at 200 Degrees normal on conventional oil, i can see where it would go even hotter under load, and doesn't conventional oil start breaking down around the 250 mark? I have not put a load on the truck lately to test this out
Where synthetic goes considerably higher?
And yes Sous i am enjoying what i am learning along the way, but i have noticed the more i know the more i think there is more to do ! PSD at it's finest !
Conventional oil threshold is ~250°, full synthetic is ~450°. These are measurements that I have identified from research as each oil company holds some of their specifications close.
Conventional oil threshold is ~250°, full synthetic is ~450°. These are measurements that I have identified from research as each oil company holds some of their specifications close.
so here in a couple of weeks i will load the camper to run out to storage, i will see where the EOT is will 7k load, that may very well make my decision for conventional/synthetic.
May also get to see where EGT's go to, Not any real bug hills but more learning truck parameters.
Conventional oil threshold is ~250°, full synthetic is ~450°. These are measurements that I have identified from research as each oil company holds some of their specifications close.
If EOT exceeds 250* - I’m going to say something is broken.
Lower viscosity oil (5w40) will have better cold weather behavior than 15w40 regardless of whether it is conventional or overpriced. I also think that even though these engines can sound TERRIBLE on a cooooold start, there is no ‘damage’ occurring. Particularly if you don’t work the engine hard before it warms up.
If EOT exceeds 250* - I’m going to say something is broken.
I agree 100% that if EOT gets near or exceeds 250°, something is not right.
Although, when a statement such as the one below comes across from someone that portrays themselves as having extensive mechanical experience with diesels to include 6.7L's, Duramax, multiple 7.3L's, etc... and a visitor to the site or a new FTE'r reads it and takes it to heart, that is not good either.
I had a 203 about 4 trucks...I think? LOL....anyways, hotter EOTs are the reason I started running the 180* stat. Did the hotter oil really hurt anything? In short, no. But I was much more comfortable with maintaining 235-240 then the 265 I was seeing with a 203 thermostat. But, like anything, take it for what you will. That is my real world info as best as I can give it. Like it's been stated before, we can talk science and vectors and formulas about it all day long, but the bottom line is you need to be comfortable with whatever your engine oil temp gauge is telling you. I don't think the average Joe 7.3 owner can tell a real difference in an engine running 23 degrees warmer or cooler.
We all know that there is misinformation all over the internet and anything read should be verified. I am wrong just about everyday of my life, but if I make a statement here on the FTE in a post that is wrong, I will go back and insert an "edit" to correct my error. Just like if I stumble across a new bit of information that is relevant to an older discussion, I will update that discussion for future readers.
In my opinion, we (the FTE community) do a fairly good job of keeping that misinformation to a low boil and that is why the FTE is considered a great resource for validated and factual information.
IAT at 100*F just cruising along on a 70*F day sounds a little high to me. I have a simple 6637 filter setup with the sensor ziptied to a bracket near the fuse box and usually I don't see a difference that high between ambient temp even when I'm working the truck hard with a decent size trailer behind it. Usually the sensor says it's in the 10-15* range higher that outside ambient under easy cruising. Maybe it will briefly hit 20*F higher for a short time with a trailer.
I agree 100% that if EOT gets near or exceeds 250°, something is not right.
Although, when a statement such as the one below comes across from someone that portrays themselves as having extensive mechanical experience with diesels to include 6.7L's, Duramax, multiple 7.3L's, etc... and a visitor to the site or a new FTE'r reads it and takes it to heart, that is not good either.
There have been other reports of the higher temp t-stat causing elevated oil temps - specifically with twin HPOP’s.
I ran the 203* t-stat for years and installed a bunch of them in trucks along with a vegetable oil conversion. (We tend to like faster warm-up and the higher ECT helps increase our vegetable oil temps for better fuel atomization). But, I recognize these trucks are all different - especially at ~20yrs old - and everyone’s results may vary. I’m currently satisfied with Ford’s preferred 195* t-stat and really see no reason to use something different.
Lower viscosity oil (5w40) will have better cold weather behavior than 15w40 regardless of whether it is conventional or overpriced.
Agreed. But put 2 bottles of the same weight in the freezer overnight. Pour them both and see if the synthetic pours easier. Maybe we all need to do this experiment and report our results just for fun.
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
I also think that even though these engines can sound TERRIBLE on a cooooold start, there is no ‘damage’ occurring. Particularly if you don’t work the engine hard before it warms up.
I don’t know how much ‘damage’ may be done during cold start. But I do prefer to run my engines with pressurized lubrication on the journals as quickly as possible. Significant difference? Probably not, but my preference none the less.
I also pre-fill the oil filter.
Agreed. But put 2 bottles of the same weight in the freezer overnight. Pour them both and see if the synthetic pours easier. Maybe we all need to do this experiment and report our results just for fun.
I don’t know how much ‘damage’ may be done during cold start. But I do prefer to run my engines with pressurized lubrication on the journals as quickly as
I also pre-fill the oil filter.
Im curious about the results of this experiment. It would also be interesting to see the difference in USED oils. My theory is 15w40 conventional will be the same as 15w40 synthetic - since that is specifically what those numbers mean.
Our 7.3 LPOP is a gear rotor pump that does not care a bit about high viscosity. It is supplying the journals and bearings with oil as soon as the engine turns over. If you’ve ever been curious about the VOLUME of oil, consider leaving the filter off the next time you crank the truck. I would not advise letting the engine start because you’ll likely find more oil on the ground than the filter can hold after a couple seconds of just cranking.
Fwiw, I’m not critical of your choices and I can understand how people justify these decisions, but pre-filling the filter is as effective as top end oil changes at mitigating engine wear.
I went back to a stock t-stat when I did the water pump a couple months ago and I sure do notice lower oil temps compared to the 203* one I had in there before. I have to start pushing it pretty hard up to highway speeds with a trailer to even get it to crack 200*F, and that is at ~80*F ambient.
I also dumped in some expensive/overpriced/boutique-y oil about 1,000 miles ago because I'd always wanted to try that one. It's billed as a 5W30 full synthetic and she seems to like that stuff. Maybe a little better MPG also. It's advertised as a fuel efficient formula and is probably something like a 5W35 in reality based on the specs, if such a thing existed. Only concern I have is if consumption increases compared to 40 weight. Typically I can go 5500-6,000 miles before it's down the add mark and needs 2 quarts and that has been pretty consistent with 5W40's I've used (T6, Delvac 1, Schaeffer)