The level plug?
I'm trying to change my differential fluid. This thing is stuck but good. I tried the flex handle, the butterfly ratchet wouldn't even turn it, the electric impact just makes a lot of noise. Before I strip it I want to be certain that it's even the right bolt.
I've had this sort of plug before on a Honda transmission, but that was an aluminum housing so rust was not a problem.

 

You didn't say what you are working on? Looking at your profile i am guessing a 97 E150?

If you don't have a fill plug on the rear cover, and you shouldn't, then that is your only fill plug. Is that a 1/2"? You could try a long breaker bar and while you have pressure on it, smack it with a hammer where the breaker bar goes into the plug. One problem is that using a breaker tool inserted into the plug tends to spread the plug outwards when torquing on it making the threads even tighter. Kind of opposite of when you are trying to remove a mason jar lid. Squeezing down on the lid actually tightens the lid to the threads on the glass.

Another method might be to use a hammer and good sharp medium chisel on the edges that are sticking out. Try to start at least 3 places spaced around the outside of the plug try to have it pointed somewhat inward so that when you hit it with the hammer, it is trying to separate thee threads as well as turn them at the same time.

Applying heat with a torch? I don't know about that. A better way might be to get a good quality short 1/2" drive extension and weld it in the plug. That way you are not applying too much heat over a large area. Welding would keep most of the heat right there at the plug. Immediately use a breaker bar and it will probably come loose.

So those are my ideas... Maybe someone else will chime in.


If you don't have a welder... I have taken my van to a muffler shop to have a couple of things welded on it. 10 or 20 bucks would probably get a short extension welded to the plug. Tell them you want try to remove the plug while it is hot and up on the lift!

 

Like Anna mentioned, breaker bar, perhaps with a bit of pipe extension, and with tension on it smack the bar at the plug location with a hammer to shock it. Might require two people.

 

The plug uses a 3/8" square to remove. I have a longer 1/2" breaker and an adapter, but I'm working on the ground under the van. The square drive limits the angles at which the bar can be deployed to two positions.
My kingdom for a proper lift!

 

Most likely you'll need to heat the plug in order to remove it. You can also find rather long handled ratchets if ground clearance is an issue.

You might contact a local small garage who could raise your van, use a torch to quickly heat the plug and remove it. Naturally that action would pretty much necessitate a fluid change if the short term heat causes any issues with its viscosity or life expectancy.

 

You may be able to find a rear differential cover with a fill plug, or have one installed on yours. I cannot identify your specific differential from the picture.

 

Take a wire brush to the area to clean it, spray it down liberally with some PB blaster or some Kroil oil wait at least 15 minutes...I prefer to wait a couple of hours spraying it a few times, the grab a manual impact wrench, something like this and give it a good whack with a hammer.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/TEKTON-3-...=sem&gclsrc=ds

 

My plug was stuck and I took it to my trusted mechanic who loosened the plug, removed the differential cover and drained the old fluid, inspected the differential, and filled it for $50 with fluid that I supplied. My van had 94 k miles on it. It was no surprise that it was stuck.

 

The manual impact is a great tip, I forgot about using one of those.

 

I tried an impact wrench on my plug too. No dice! My mechanic said he had a few tricks up his sleeve. He probably used a torch.

 

Perhaps a bit out of the budget but I purchased a Yukon Gear cast differential cover with an easily accessible drain and fill plugs, the lugs being external and a bit easier to loosen for service. Something like these: Yukon Gear

Regardless if the plug can be successfully removed when re-installing it a bit of anti-seize on the threads will prevent it from rusting in place again.

 

I've seen the transmission drain plugs that you drill the transmission pan and install, used on differential covers. You would need to mark the height before removing the cover to drill and make sure you have enough room inside for the lock ring.

 

Amazing idea! Why didn't Ford think of that? I apply it to spark plugs every time, and they're not expected to be in the head for 60,000 miles.

 

Once a vehicle is built and delivered to the owner Ford and all other manufacturers loose interest in the long-term maintenance---they've already made their money. Apart from honoring their warranty obligations you're on your own after taking delivery. Used vehicles? You're on your own from day one.

Spark plugs in the Modular Motors are claimed to last at least 100K miles (which is BS IMHO) but since the OEM plugs are nickel plated that's supposed to greatly reduce issues with plugs seizing in the aluminum heads. Although I use Motorcraft SP-479 plugs in my engines I also add a bit of nickel-based anti-seize on the threads. That formula is said to be better in that application.

Of course I also torque my plugs to 23-25 ft/lbs using a quality torque wrench---others don't feel those steps are necessary.

 

I can barely find room for the ratchet inside the engine bay when changing plugs. I just hope that I never have to do that again!