Glad to help.

 

Is everyone getting the Dayton center channel replaced fairly easily? I did the door speakers right after I got my 2019 cause the system sucked and a speaker blew in a month without me ever turning it up loud. I didn’t do the center at that time cause some had said the clips broke easily and they couldn’t find replacements. Also does the center need adapters like the door speakers did? I used JL C2s and the Metra adapters.

Maybe I’ll do this and add some fill to the sub. I need a small project to do!

I used Noico sound deadener in all my doors and the sound inside is so much better with those new speakers. The outside noise is also much less and the doors sound like a bank vault when you close them.

 

The center cover has four clips. I use a plastic putty knife to pull up the cover; just when it seems it will break, it will pop off. The little clips sometimes pop off the tabs but if you don't lose them, you're good. If you lose them, go to ford or an auto parts store for replacements; the ones from Amazon usually don't fit.

The speaker you're talking about will drop in but you'll need to make a harness for it. I use the plug off the old speaker. The issue is now so much the sound, it's the balance between the doors/tweeters and the center channel. Your objective is to get more sensitive full range from the doors and often the center (regardless of make) doesn't match sensitivity or RMS. At high volumes, this isn't an issue for most. At lower volumes, on set will dominate the sound stage. If it's the doors, you're all good. If it's the center, you have highs but no bass and no stereo. You can buy a foam baffle for the center which may improve the sound you get.

The C2s are nice speakers but under-powered with the OEM amp at 91 sensitivity. I've done two installs with these and without more power, the tweets are rather bright and they lack the oomph a higher sensitivity set will give you..(I did do the amp upgrade on one set of C2s and do they sound very good when give 50 watts RMS...very good.) Oddly, the C1s are the same sensitivity but run very well with the OEM amp.

One of the guys here (67L48?) measured the watts from the OEM amp but I don't remember the specs. The B&Os are rated at 50 watts but I suspect they receive less than 20 at full volume for the OEM amp. This means you should shop for speakers in the 93 and up sensitivity range or at least full range with low RMS (C1s).

The sub mod is a very good place to get a lot of upgrade for little money and effort. 67L48 did an excellent write up on this mod with a lot of pictures..
Kudos on the sound treatment. Single best mod to improve the sound, even from the OEM speakers.

 

Hey 34SF,

I apologize if I read your tutorial wrong but I like your simple upgrade of replacing the speakers in my XL SYNC3 with some high efficiency speakers like the JL C1 6x9 components you linked. My main question is do I need to add the crossover that comes with them for the tweeters or just plug the speakers into factory wiring and the head unit is already setup to adjust crossover frequency ?

I have an AMP and JL 8" box sub that I'd like to add as well but I think for that I can handle. I need to top tap into the front speakers right? For the high level inputs.

 

You won't need the crossovers for the SNYC 3 unit. You will need them if you add an amp to the door speakers. For your sub, I would use a front speaker signal wire to ensure I got the most signal. The SNYC 3 head does some DSP so you'd get a a better signal from the fronts. I would also run a remote wire for your amp versus a signal sensing connection, just to be sure the amp will power up and down reliably but you may not need this.

 

Got it, Thanks for your help. I appreciate it. Any recommendations for the high level input adapter? My amp doesn't have the plug for Hi level inputs so in the past I think I've used a Adapter that converts speaker input to RCA.

 

These work well: PAC LP7-2 L.O.C. PRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter with Remote Turn On

 

the install is now complete I replaced the door speakers with JL Audio C1-690 and C1-650X, didn't do the A-pillars that came with the 690's, Didn't have time, I did unhook the center channel, sounds better without it
. Big improvement over the B&O garbage, Ford should give new truck buyers the option for a gift card for cructhfield, LOL. Anyway I'm happy with the change.
A BIG THANK YOU TO ALL THE INPUT GUYS, VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!

 

Awesome. I ordered the speakers and the RCA converter to add the amp for subwoofer. Can't wait to do the same.

 

Totally agree with this. Kind of stunning when you hear the difference. Congrats!

 

Hi. 99FORD EXPY I've been following this thread as I'm also upgrading my audio (2021 F450 w/B&O) starting with new door speakers. I got a great deal on Infinity Kappa 6" x 9" components for the front (90CSX) and 6.5" co-axial for the rear (62IX). Did you ever get your JL Audio tweeters installed in the A-pillars? If so, did you just use the factory tweeter wiring and power the tweeters from the SYNC head unit or did you use the JL Audio crossovers that came with the speakers? I'm a bit concerned because I'm unsure of what type of raw signal the front tweeters get and I don't want to damage the Kappa tweeters. 34SF's excellent article mentions that the factory tweeters have a base blocker capacitor built into them which makes me wonder if they are getting a full frequency signal at the harness which would damage an aftermarket tweeter without the capacitor. You also mentioned that you disconnected the center channel. Did you have any degradation of the factory chimes/notifications/navigation commands or any other issues with SYNC function after disconnecting the center?

I'll eventually replace the B&O amp and use aftermarket to power all speakers. Thank you!

 

no I have not installed the tweeters, I actually forgot about them. After disconnecting the center channel I did not notice any change with chimes or sync.

 

Hi Everyone...found this thread a few days ago and ordered the Dayton speaker to replace my center channel on my B&O system in my '21 F150. How did you all secure the speaker in the hole since the screw holes will not align with the holes in the dash since the factory speaker is in a mounting bracket. Will using some foam for a baffle around the speaker help secure it and prevent it from rattling around? Or should I secure it with some sort of strap? @34SF you mention using the plug off the factory speaker...mine is held in place with a rivet. Not sure how to get it off without completely damaging the connector? The aftermarket harness that works with this plug is the 72-5600, but wondering if it's worth buying for a few bucks, trying to break off and reuse the factory plug is the way to go, or just clip the head off the wires and use some Metra female quick slide clips to attach the wires to the new speaker.

Thanks!

 

I use 1/8" abs to make a baffle for new centers when needed. You can buy 12X12 sheets on Amazon and it will cut with a razor knife (keep your hands safe!). As for the plug, if you are trying to retain "back to OEM" no matter what you do, you have chew up something. I haven't seen the rivet but if you can't drill it off, I would clip the plug and leave enough to re-splice if you want to go back to OEM. BUT...before you do all this, try out the speaker. It may not be the solution you want. If you get a chance, please post a pic of the plug, I'd like to see it.

 

Here you go. This is from a ‘21 with the B&O (not unleashed)