1) I'm having a issue to where the truck is draining my battery but I don't know where to start looking or a system to find this?

2) Transmission slipping but not all the time. It seems to be second gear. I can put it in gear manual and it doesn't slip. I don't have any codes showing up. I didn't go into limp mode or anything like that.I checked the fluid the first time and it was about a quart low so I replaced that but it didn't change the issue in hand. Fluid is clean no burnt smell. The only information said to replace the TPS and I have done that but then ran into a completely dead battery so I didn't get to see if this helped.It was so dead that I couldn't even get a dome light or head light to come on. I know the alternator working for it moves when driving.

Its a 1996 Ford F150 extended cab 2 door with a 302/5.0 motor. I have owned plenty of 80s model Fords in my past but this one is a Bronco version truck????? My father in law bought this new back in 96. I don't even know what the transmission is? I'm use to the C4 or C6 so I don't even know how to approach this one? Thanks

 

Welcome to FTE
For me a trucks and cars, be it old or new all work the same way just may use different things to make it happen.
So if you know the 80's models that applies to this 96 Bronco that is just a closed short bed pick up

1) for battery drains first disconnect the battery and see if it will take a charge. It is is an older one or was drained to low it may not take a charge.
Once it had a FULL CHARGE I check for drains by using a test light between the disconnected battery & the cable.
If there is a drain depending how large it is the light will be dim or bright. Remember to keep the doors closed when testing as the dome light will show as a drain.
You didnt leave it on by the head light switch did you? Newer types radios pull a little power to keep the stations, do you have other things that do the same?

Now if you have a good drain I start pulling 1 fuse at a time and any change in the brightness of the test light shows what area that the fuse protects that you need to look at for the drain.
If you have all fuses out and still have a drain look at the ALT. battery disconnected remove the large wire from the output stud and check for the drain again.
No drain bad ALT if still have a drain then I am at a lost and would have to step back and think what else it could be.

2) I am thinking if its a auto and the year truck its a AOD auto (Auto Over Drive). Dose it have a large "O" around the "D"? If so over drive.
I dont think it would be a EAOD but I am not up on this newer stuff. The "E" means it is run by a computer to make the shifts.
You did say you changed the TPS why? If something told you it could be why then the trans could be a EAOD?

You also did not say how many miles are on the trans or the last time its had any service, fluid & filter change and bands adjusted ?
Maybe someone that know more on this trans will post up.

Good luck
Dave ----

 

1) put a test light or voltmeter online between the positive battery cable and battery post. Pull a fuse while checking to see if the voltage draw disappears. If no change then reinstall and repeat with the next fuse. Keep in mind that at least the radio will alway have a draw for the clock.

2) I don’t understand what you mean by a Bronco version truck. The 1978-1996 Bronco was based off the F-150 so….It is either the E4OD or 4R70W. If you are working on a Bronco I’d say it is definitely the E4OD but in a truck it’s hard to say. What is the transmission code on the driver’s side “B” pillar?

EDIT 3) We were typing at the same time so to respond to post #2 there is no way it is an AOD. That transmission wasn’t even available in ‘96. What is an “EAOD”? I’ve never heard of it. The PCM uses various engine sensors including the throttle position sensor to control the transmission.

 

I did say I was not up on this newer stuff
I meant to say what you did E4OD
Because a computer runs the show it could be all most anything and why I dont like computers running the show

Thanks for setting me straight and giving the right information.
Dave ----

 

"Bronco version truck" is most likely a Centurion conversion C150. They started life as an extended cab then Centurion grafted (aka butchered) on the body pieces to make a 4 door Bronco. The transmission could be an E4OD or 4R70W. Check the driver side b-pillar sticker for the Trans Code. E = E4OD, U = 4R70W. In either case the transmission is electronic controlled. False feedback from the TPS can cause issues. A failing MLPS on the driver side of the transmission is known to cause false "neutraling".

Common cause of a draining battery is a bad alternator diode. Have the alternator tested, if it is good start pulling fuses and monitor the current draw as previously suggested. I believe acceptable current draw limit with the key in the Off position is ~20-50 mA. Maybe a bit more.

 

I didn't think Centurion made an “OBS” version. I thought they were only made up to ‘91?

 

Thank you gentlemen. You have educated me more than what I could look up. I have twp pictures here one of the truck and the other of the bar sticker. For tans is has "U" so that answer what trans mission it has. As to the gear symbols on the column. They are all white letters but the D surrounded by white. I'm thinking its over drive. That seems to be the norm anymore.
I was watching a video last night and it was on a customer having what seems to be the problem here where it just kills the battery overnight. The mechanic noticed the alternator was hot to the touch after doing a test with some software to monitor if and when the spikes in power that drained the battery. It sat for 3 hours before it became noticed ( meaning everything was fine and then just changed) amp loss was very clear. It was up to I believe 7 amps pulling constant. The final problem was a bad alternator so when it was said to get it checked. my question is a simple check from your local auto parts store going to catch it? The first time it was dead , the battery was maybe a couple years old so I took my newer marine battery and put it in so I could make my appointments so it took a week to come across this again. To be honest, the alt was charging every time from the gauge but from what I read, the Fords are known to have weak alternators from factory? I mean if you run headlights, you would see the gauge drop but when you gas the truck it goes up. Hell I think the turn signal effected it. I will see when i put the battery back in. I will go through first and double check the connections and clean them. I can go from there.
Transmission,
It seemed everything I read up on my issue leaned to replacing the TPS so I did even though I don't have any codes. The easy way I can explain that issue is to tell you what happen. I drove to do a interview about 30 minutes away from my home. I got there no problems. maybe took 20 minutes or so, then got back into truck and proceeded home the same route. I drove maybe 2 to 300 feet ( rough guess) and it seem to be coming out of first then it spun like it wasn't catching so I slid dropped it to neutral back to drive and it took. drove the rest of the way home with stop lights and it shifted fine. I went to a couple of places close the next day and don't remember any issues. Three days later went back to same place for second interview and same thing happen when I left about same area. Then it was fine again so I went to the store to get a few things ( about maybe another 10 minutes) and when I left the store it slipped again but a couple of times. The next morning I got up and checked the transmission fluid and it was about a quart low so I went to Napa down the road from me and picked up a couple of quarts to be safe and he recommended trans shutter as well. I haven't put that in as of yet. Has anyone used this product?

As to maintenance. I haven't done anything with the transmission wise. I just keep up with daily maintenance. I have only had the truck now maybe 5 yrs. My father in law ( has passed) bought this truck brand new in 96. He did mainly traveling work so this truck has about 80%+ highway usage. He did at one time when it was still new had to have Ford fix something with the trans mission. I think it might have been a recall or a problem (not sure). He kept this truck very well maintained ( ret tired military) so it it even hiccuped, it was taken to his mechanic so the truck has always been taken care of. It has about 134,000 miles on it. He had it repainted after a hail storm but the paint it done and very dull. I'm only telling you this because once you see the pictures you will understand. Anyway , I was taking care of my wife till recently (5yrs) so the truck was only used to take her to appointments and store runs. I tank of gas would easily last a month or better. So you get a better idea of its use at this time. It was never really great on gas millage but has gotten worse even with a complete tune up. That was also mentioned with the TPS change.

As to the bronco comment. That was what I was told. Personally I'm older so to me its more like the old full size Ranger look but Ford has changed so much over the years in what they are now called.

Sorry so long but hopefully gives you guys a better understanding of how this truck is used and it's history. Thanks

Also if I didn't say it. The alternator is charging from the way the needle move up when driving but to me has also seemed to be weak from past trucks I have owned. I have never seen a need drop so much when headlights we're turned on. That's my concern with having it checked. Auto parts stores seem to be looking for it its charging or not.

 

There is nothing Bronco about that truck. It's an extended cab F150 with a topper. Yes a part store can check the alternator for ripple as well as output. The 3G alternator in this vintage truck is a stout unit that provides plenty of output at idle RPM and up. The earlier 2G alternators (~1993 and older) were weak and prone to causing fires from a faulty connector design. Your transmission issue description is common to a failing MLPS which usually does not trigger fault codes.

 

There are OBS versions out there...

 

Nice looking truck. only one picture show's. Anyway, MLPS makes sense because every once in awhile I would have to pull the shifter up to get it to start. I'm going out early in the morning (before it gets hot) and maybe just take that switch out and do a visual inspection and clean it. I do have deep puddles on my dirt road so it may have affected the switch? The only thing that concerns me is the slipping didn't sound like a neutral slipping rev but made some weird noise sound. Wasn't real horrible sound but more of a light kind of grinding sound and if you rev it a little it would engage somewhat but I didn't want to just gas the crap out of it either.I don't know if that helps but I just want to explain it in full detail so you guys know what I'm trying to say. I also have to go under dash and tighten up the shifter there as well. I noticed today it was a little loose. gear shifter has been a little loose and I found that information while researching. I found the MLPS on Amazon for $31 bucks compared to $ 81 local auto store.
Seeing it my only truck working, its just going to remove the alternator and walk do to Napa and have them check it. little low on cash so if its bad, I will have to Amazon it to get for a cheaper cost.

 

I didn't get the Bronco deal either. Thought that was odd and didn't make any sense but then again the Ranger use to be the full size and is now the small truck. Don't understand why they changed it?

 

Ranger was a trim package on a full-size F-100 or F-150 truck. I’m not sure which one or both. They repurposed that name for the mid size truck.

 

I know most the Fords I owned back in the 80s were Rangers other then the F100 76 short bed step side I had and wished I kept. I knew back then that most were either C4 or C6 but when it came to this truck, I was honestly lost since everything I found was more of a list of what it could be but after I was given the code to look for, it became clear what transmission this one had. I did the U joints a couple years back not thinking anything wasn't right when they gave me two. Well quickly learned it was three with a carrier bearing finding there was two drive shafts. I didn't even think about that with it being a extended cab. I never owned one before this so I learned quick to check before buying.

 

Just a small update and a Alt question. I found the shifter next to the brake peddle was loose so I took one at a time out and used blue lock tight and tighten them back up and gear shifter is nice and tight now. I charged the battery up fully and put it back in after checking what wires I could follow. I took her for maybe 10 to 15 minute run and she shifted good but that doesn't mean the problem is gone so in the morning I was thinking of taking a longer run but I have a question first. When i started the truck and took her for a run, she didn't have the fan clutch sound of it was bad like it did before this so that problem gone. ( I replaced the fan clutch a while back because of this kind of higher rev noise), anyway, the charger in dash should a good charge of half way between marks and didn't move. Now I didn't try any lights due to I was seeing how the transmission acted. When I got back and pop the hood. the Alternator was very hot to the touch.I'm guessing this is where my problem is on draining the battery. My guess is its going bad. I was going to ask. could I disconnect the alternator and cover the leads to let it sit and see if the battery still looses charge? I'm thinking taking it out of the link would show me if I need to dig deeper? Thanks

 

Yes you could disconnect the alternator to see it in the battery discharges overnight or a few hours. Using a meter in-line with a battery lead will tell you the same story in seconds.